Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

What did you do to your TJ today?

SPECWAR said:
I was under the impression from conversation here that Western and Southern Jeeps don’t rust🙄🙄
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if you are responding to my post but I will answer anyway. If you have something against a metal surface (in my case the old bumper against the frame) and water gets trapped there for an extended period then rust will form. My Jeep has spent all of it's life until last year in Colorado so the fact that there is only surface rust trivially removed with a few minutes of 120 grit paper after 18 years is essentially rust free IMO.

Andy
 
  • Like
Reactions: CMBD, Kiwi TJ, MountaineerTom and 2 others
Installed an LED-based underhood light. I'm on a roll today LOL. Andy

IMG-1493.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Hog, FarFire70, chudlet and 5 others
Installed the Motobilt fuel tank skid and FINALLY installed the BMB LED tail lights!

red02tj said:
Thanks to @gbirk for the file and @SSTJ for maintaining the list. I got my new 3d printed snubbers installed. Looks much better than my DIY PVC and cane feet setup.

View attachment 503242

View attachment 503243
Click to expand...
I printed half a dozen of these ^^^. Certainly don't need all of them. If anyone wants a couple, PM me. I think I paid like $4 each.

mjonesjr84 said:
I installed the B&M short throw shifter and a cabin air filter housing. I am interested to see how different the shifts are in the morning after the RTV dries. The cabin filter is 3D printed and the filter is from the JK's.

I also have this billet aluminum thermostat housing to go in tomorrow evening. Hopefully this one will seal better an will not be prone to cracking like the cheap aluminum factory ones are.

View attachment 503341

View attachment 503342

View attachment 503343

View attachment 503344

View attachment 503345

View attachment 503346

View attachment 503347
Click to expand...

Got a link to the file for the cabin filter housing? I'd like to print one of those. Still chasing a passenger side water leak.
B&M is in my top three favorite comfort mods... B&M, Seat risers and seat warmers.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kiwi TJ, SoCalGlide, RINC and 2 others
MikekiM said:
Installed the Motobilt fuel tank skid and FINALLY installed the BMB LED tail lights!


I printed half a dozen of these ^^^. Certainly don't need all of them. If anyone wants a couple, PM me. I think I paid like $4 each.



Got a link to the file for the cabin filter housing? I'd like to print one of those. Still chasing a passenger side water leak.
B&M is in my top three favorite comfort mods... B&M, Seat risers and seat warmers.
Click to expand...

How long are your snubber extensions? I may be interested in a set of them if they are long enough.

Here is a link to the cabin air filter housing. So far it has done great.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1159898397...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

The B&M shifter is fast becoming one of my favorite mods. I had a grinding in 2nd gear that after a fluid change and shifter change it isn't there anymore.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RHP61 and John MD
mjonesjr84 said:
How long are your snubber extensions? I may be interested in a set of them if they are long enough.

Here is a link to the cabin air filter housing. So far it has done great.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1159898397...pid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

The B&M shifter is fast becoming one of my favorite mods. I had a grinding in 2nd gear that after a fluid change and shifter change it isn't there anymore.
Click to expand...

Thank you for the link.

I had the exact experience with second gear. Fluid change, which was needed anyway, and that resolved it. But the short shift made it whole lot more fun.

The snubbers are too long for my needs. 1" tall. I made a mistake in not checking how big they are before having them printed. I am going to cut down two of them. The rest are up for grabs.
 
Continuing to get the LJ ready for the annual inspection, I took it for a brief drive, but first, I dumped a couple gallons of gas in it because I've been keeping the tank low because it's coming out to raise the rear of the frame and put a Savvy skid under it. When filling, I could hear fuel hitting the ground. The fitting on the tank to which the fill hose connects has a big crack in it. :mad: Not sure what I'll do with that.

On the drive, the speedo didn't work, but it was an easy fix - the Speedohealer connector is a bit cheap (Chinese knockoff), and it was unseated. I then went to top off the oil, and the oil filler cap wouldn't come off. The ratchet mechanism broke. I popped the top piece off with a screwdriver and used a water pump pliers to unscrew the bottom piece. I have two different caps inbound - a Mopar OEM one, and a Gates one-piece. Not sure which I'll use.

So, started the day off poorly, but it got better when I started the big project of the day. I realized that, although I don't think they inspect for fender coverage here, there are signal lights in the front fender flares. I had removed the flares about a year ago, meaning to paint them, but never did. So that was today's big project. Here's my "recipe":

  1. Wash with Dawn
  2. Dry with compressed air
  3. Clean with SEM Leather and Plastic & Leather Prep (#38353)
  4. Rough up with grey Scotchbrite pad
  5. Sand heavy scratches with 120, 220, 320 on an orbital sander
  6. Rough up with grey Scotchbrite pad
  7. Wash with Dawn
  8. Dry with compressed air
  9. Clean with SEM Leather and Plastic & Leather Prep (#38353)
  10. Mask inner sides with masking tape and paper
  11. Spray with SEM Adhesion Promoter (#39863) following directions
  12. Spray with OD Green paint (matched to my powder coat) following directions
  13. Spray with SEM 1k Matte Clear Coat (#40923) following directions
And after all that work, here they are right after Step 13 above:

1709517062478.png


And now, several hours later, they look awesome! The matte clear dried to a consistent finish (much better than in the photo above). But, oh, does my shop stink! I wore a respirator because I had to keep one of the big overhead doors closed due to high winds, so no cross-ventilation. I'm going to try to install them Thursday evening, after several days of curing.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ledbazooka, Atxbold, Hog and 8 others
MikekiM said:
Thank you for the link.

I had the exact experience with second gear. Fluid change, which was needed anyway, and that resolved it. But the short shift made it whole lot more fun.

The snubbers are too long for my needs. 1" tall. I made a mistake in not checking how big they are before having them printed. I am going to cut down two of them. The rest are up for grabs.
Click to expand...

Crap. I need a out 5-6" ones that I can cut down.
 
sab said:
Continuing to get the LJ ready for the annual inspection, I took it for a brief drive, but first, I dumped a couple gallons of gas in it because I've been keeping the tank low because it's coming out to raise the rear of the frame and put a Savvy skid under it. When filling, I could hear fuel hitting the ground. The fitting on the tank to which the fill hose connects has a big crack in it. :mad: Not sure what I'll do with that.

On the drive, the speedo didn't work, but it was an easy fix - the Speedohealer connector is a bit cheap (Chinese knockoff), and it was unseated. I then went to top off the oil, and the oil filler cap wouldn't come off. The ratchet mechanism broke. I popped the top piece off with a screwdriver and used a water pump pliers to unscrew the bottom piece. I have two different caps inbound - a Mopar OEM one, and a Gates one-piece. Not sure which I'll use.

So, started the day off poorly, but it got better when I started the big project of the day. I realized that, although I don't think they inspect for fender coverage here, there are signal lights in the front fender flares. I had removed the flares about a year ago, meaning to paint them, but never did. So that was today's big project. Here's my "recipe":

  1. Wash with Dawn
  2. Dry with compressed air
  3. Clean with SEM Leather and Plastic & Leather Prep (#38353)
  4. Rough up with grey Scotchbrite pad
  5. Sand heavy scratches with 120, 220, 320 on an orbital sander
  6. Rough up with grey Scotchbrite pad
  7. Wash with Dawn
  8. Dry with compressed air
  9. Clean with SEM Leather and Plastic & Leather Prep (#38353)
  10. Mask inner sides with masking tape and paper
  11. Spray with SEM Adhesion Promoter (#39863) following directions
  12. Spray with OD Green paint (matched to my powder coat) following directions
  13. Spray with SEM 1k Matte Clear Coat (#40923) following directions
And after all that work, here they are right after Step 13 above:

View attachment 506354

And now, several hours later, they look awesome! The matte clear dried to a consistent finish (much better than in the photo above). But, oh, does my shop stink! I wore a respirator because I had to keep one of the big overhead doors closed due to high winds, so no cross-ventilation. I'm going to try to install them Thursday evening, after several days of curing.
Click to expand...

Looking forward to seeing how those look on your Jeep.

I’ve been using a Gates one piece oil fill cap for several years with no issues. I got to that point the same way you did.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sab
NashvilleTJ said:
Wow. Snow, wheelin’, and chain saws. You have the life, my friend.
Click to expand...

Not really. Every time he posts a "Light snow" video, his wife slams him with her JK to put the attention on her. Just another reason why I prefer to "ask" my wife NOT to follow me. Cell phones cause more deaths than DUI's.
 
Last edited:
  • Haha
Reactions: John Cooper and NashvilleTJ
red02tj said:
Missing a word, what size do you need? I’ve got a whole role of TPU leftover from printing mine.
Click to expand...
I need ones that are about 4" long. That would give me enough to cut down. I'd appreciate it!

MikekiM said:
Stacking them won't work?
Click to expand...
The ones I have are round. I'd prefer the ones that are shaped like the OEM rubber ones and be 1 piece.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MikekiM
mjonesjr84 said:
I need ones that are about 4" long. That would give me enough to cut down. I'd appreciate it!


The ones I have are round. I'd prefer the ones that are shaped like the OEM rubber ones and be 1 piece.
Click to expand...

I scaled the attached to 4in snubbers but on my printer they are a 9+hr print each, so a bit more than I can handle.
 

Attachments

  • Like
Reactions: mjonesjr84
1Salty Dawg said:
My son got me the same ones 2 years ago and they are now starting to rust.
Click to expand...

Yeah I'm sure they're pretty cheap but it's an excuse to get better later ... they're a bit wide also.. 3.75 backspacing with 33/12.50/15 ... want more poke but not doing spacers ... may get 35s next but defeats the reason for getting em ... to disco offroad without a couple few grand in a lift kit

20240304_084417.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kiwi TJ
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts
Top Bottom
Back