I have several delicate yet simple plastic parts for my Olds I'd like to scan and print. Let me know if you ever do that.
What have you 3D printed for your TJ?
- Thread starter chimmike
- Start date
Someone scan and print the HVAC sliders yet? I bet they would sell well lol (PS, I would buy some)
I've done a replacement panel to fit where the passenger airbag console sits. Two of them actually.
I've also done threaded thumb screws I'm going to use to attach replacement interior light trigger switches in the door jambs so I can control the lights when doors are off.
Truth told.. I didn't print any of them. My wife works at our local library and they do the printing on the cheap. The panels cost me like $3 each and the thumbs screws were like $0.30
I've also done threaded thumb screws I'm going to use to attach replacement interior light trigger switches in the door jambs so I can control the lights when doors are off.
Truth told.. I didn't print any of them. My wife works at our local library and they do the printing on the cheap. The panels cost me like $3 each and the thumbs screws were like $0.30
What material are you all printing with?
I was thinking of trying to jump pretty quickly into PETG, but I wonder if I shouldn't go PLA for the mock up and then ABS, though I need some additional items to go ABS.
Btw, I just got polycam for my phone and though I'm not getting great 3D scans, it at least seems to be more accurate in dimensions than my buddy on his phone, though once he scales the parts he scanned, his detail looks better, but I have no idea what I'm doing yet with 3D scans, but I'd like to scan in a dash or something and then make some stuff for gauges and switches.
I was thinking of trying to jump pretty quickly into PETG, but I wonder if I shouldn't go PLA for the mock up and then ABS, though I need some additional items to go ABS.
Btw, I just got polycam for my phone and though I'm not getting great 3D scans, it at least seems to be more accurate in dimensions than my buddy on his phone, though once he scales the parts he scanned, his detail looks better, but I have no idea what I'm doing yet with 3D scans, but I'd like to scan in a dash or something and then make some stuff for gauges and switches.
jblues1969
Member
If you can do ABS competently, it's the way to go.
I can't, so I stick to PETG. I've got some thermoPLA that can be heat-treated but I haven't tried it out yet.
jblues1969
Member
I've printed new defroster mesh, AC vents, door handles, a center console tray, a center dash bezel tray, speaker adapters, and a tool for removing the window handles.
It's been so much fun, I'm actively looking for more ideas.
I read online about someone who printed body lift pucks from PLA and they worked fine even at 30% infill (except the one that was too close to the exhaust).
Oh, and you don't need to know CAD or Solidworks or Fusion360. You can design perfectly serviceable stuff with Tinkercad, which is free and online and usable by any 5 year old.
It's been so much fun, I'm actively looking for more ideas.
I read online about someone who printed body lift pucks from PLA and they worked fine even at 30% infill (except the one that was too close to the exhaust).
Oh, and you don't need to know CAD or Solidworks or Fusion360. You can design perfectly serviceable stuff with Tinkercad, which is free and online and usable by any 5 year old.
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Oh boy.. this post is going to cost me money...
I wouldn't do that. My poly bushings kept working the bolts loose, I can only imagine what a printed part would do over time.
I’m only talking about the knob on the dash control itself… everything works fine with mine thankfully…
The wire end of mine keeps slipping out of something. I've forgotten and eventually I'll pull it and see what I can print to keep the wire retained.
James9100
TJ Enthusiast
jblues1969
Member
Mudflap
Member
Recently printed a couple of coil spring centering pucks. Unfortunately I don't have a photo, but they don't look too far off from typical pucks, just with a custom geometry that is friendly with the airbags. Since they directly take any sideways force on the spring, they are printed in solid polycarbonate.
Printed a few extra body lift pucks in polycarbonate blend as well. Unlike the crappy JKS ones, they don't squash over time. If I have to print them again I'll use pure PC with carbon fiber.
I have a few underhood brackets printed in pure polycarbonate as well. Blended isn't an option there since the underhood temperatures will soften most everything else.
Pretty much all of my printing I do in either a polycarbonate blend or pure polycarbonate. Pure polycarbonate is much stronger and more heat resistant than the blended stuff, but both are light-years ahead of ASA/ABS/PETG in terms of strength.
I'm using a hot-rodded Prusa MK3S+. I crank the extruder to about 345°C, the bed to about 155°C, and the enclosure to about 85-90°C for polycarbonate printing. All of the extruder parts are pure polycarbonate; the body parts are polycarbonate blend. Had a fun time trying to print everything while the original PETG parts slowly melted down...
The enclosure is double walled plexiglass with a real glass inner liner on the front door. Foam board and foil insulation on the top and bottom. The enclosure heater is a 120 watt PTC heater, which is powerful enough to heat the enclosure to 70°C in less than 10 minutes.
(This photo was taken prior to installation of the polycarbonate parts and enclosure heater.)
Ultimate goal is to build a 350mm^3 Voron V2.4R1 Doomcube. The Prusa enclosure is actually sized to perfectly fit that printer on top.
Printed a few extra body lift pucks in polycarbonate blend as well. Unlike the crappy JKS ones, they don't squash over time. If I have to print them again I'll use pure PC with carbon fiber.
I have a few underhood brackets printed in pure polycarbonate as well. Blended isn't an option there since the underhood temperatures will soften most everything else.
Pretty much all of my printing I do in either a polycarbonate blend or pure polycarbonate. Pure polycarbonate is much stronger and more heat resistant than the blended stuff, but both are light-years ahead of ASA/ABS/PETG in terms of strength.
I'm using a hot-rodded Prusa MK3S+. I crank the extruder to about 345°C, the bed to about 155°C, and the enclosure to about 85-90°C for polycarbonate printing. All of the extruder parts are pure polycarbonate; the body parts are polycarbonate blend. Had a fun time trying to print everything while the original PETG parts slowly melted down...
The enclosure is double walled plexiglass with a real glass inner liner on the front door. Foam board and foil insulation on the top and bottom. The enclosure heater is a 120 watt PTC heater, which is powerful enough to heat the enclosure to 70°C in less than 10 minutes.
(This photo was taken prior to installation of the polycarbonate parts and enclosure heater.)
Ultimate goal is to build a 350mm^3 Voron V2.4R1 Doomcube. The Prusa enclosure is actually sized to perfectly fit that printer on top.
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I didn’t print it but I bought the 3D printed dash panel for my digital display.
jblues1969
Member
Hey @Chris or @Jerry Bransford, is there any way to make it so we can attach .stl files to posts? Currently it restricts attachments to a small list of file types.
I took this file from Thingverse and removed the phone holder arm from it. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4627374
Can you use your computer's Snipping tool to save a .jpg copy of your .stl file and then post the resulting .jpg?
jblues1969
Member
I did that already, the request was to post the file itself, which is a 3D rendered file (.stl), so that they could print it themselves.
Seconding the request for the ability to grab an .STL file form here, rather than wading through Thingiverse. The search function at that place is a hot mess.