What is the best steering for my Jeep Wrangler TJ?

The only reason whatsoever to be running a drop pitman arm, would be if you had a different style steering setup (i.e. crossover steering) as oppose to the stock Haltenberger design.

The only point you'd need to be running a drop pitman arm on the stock TJ Haltenberger style steering, would be if you were at a very excessive amount of lift (I'm talking probably 6" or more).

At 4" of lift on the stock TJ steering, you need to be running the stock pitman arm. If you run a drop pitman arm, you will run into all sorts of drivability issues.

And @Ahoragi is correct, with the Currie Currectlync, you should not be running a dropped pitman arm.

Like Jerry said at one point, it's all about simple geometry.

I think we may need a pitman arm FAQ!
I plan on getting the currie but I'm running 4.5 inches of lift should I put a pitman arm drop to make up for the .5 inches?
 
The truth is, the factory steering on the TJ does a great job of working the way it should. Unless you're running some sort of extremely custom aftermarket setup, then there's no reason at all to get rid of the stock steering system. The only thing you'd want to do ideally is upgrade it.

Thanks for this post. So, a rookie like me asks, why even upgrade it? What is it that's "better" about an upgraded steering system? Meaning ... does an upgraded steering system steer tighter, or looser, or more quickly, or at a different ratio of turns on the steering wheel per angle of the tires? Just wondering what the benefit is.

Thanks!
 
Thanks for this post. So, a rookie like me asks, why even upgrade it? What is it that's "better" about an upgraded steering system? Meaning ... does an upgraded steering system steer tighter, or looser, or more quickly, or at a different ratio of turns on the steering wheel per angle of the tires? Just wondering what the benefit is.

Thanks!

A system such as the Currie steering is much beefier and won't bend nearly as easy as the stock setup. This is advantageous if you're playing in the rocks where hitting the steering components is almost a sure thing.

It's not going to make any difference other than strength.

If you aren't off-roading it (or aren't doing anything more than forest service roads at least), then upgrading the steering is not necessary by any means.
 
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It is also shaped for a 4" spring lift. Meaning that the tie rod ends will be positioned in the center of their range of motion at 4". That is why an extra 1/2" is as inconsequential as being short 1/2".
 
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I am running 31x10.5r15 tires on a 2.5" lift.

Currie Currectlync is not an option for me for two reasons. 1) budget, 2) it is mentioned that you need additional bumpstops for small lifts.

ZJ Conversion would be a good choice. But I have two questions.
  1. Can you please confirm if there are any interference issues with 2.5" lift?
  2. Which would be a good reason to upgrade to the ZJ Tie rod, except from breaking my current Tie rod, and upgrading to a beefier one? Would a conversion like that be beneficial at all for my setup? (and if yes, in which way?)
 
I am running 31x10.5r15 tires on a 2.5" lift.

Currie Currectlync is not an option for me for two reasons. 1) budget, 2) it is mentioned that you need additional bumpstops for small lifts.

ZJ Conversion would be a good choice. But I have two questions.
  1. Can you please confirm if there are any interference issues with 2.5" lift?
  2. Which would be a good reason to upgrade to the ZJ Tie rod, except from breaking my current Tie rod, and upgrading to a beefier one? Would a conversion like that be beneficial at all for my setup? (and if yes, in which way?)
I’ve had no interference with 2.5”, 3” or 3.5” of lift.

The only advantage I’d it’s beefier and stronger than stock. If you go off-road and frequent rocks or logs that may hit the tie rod, it’s valuable.
 
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ZJ Conversion would be a good choice. But I have two questions.
  1. Can you please confirm if there are any interference issues with 2.5" lift?
  2. Which would be a good reason to upgrade to the ZJ Tie rod, except from breaking my current Tie rod, and upgrading to a beefier one? Would a conversion like that be beneficial at all for my setup? (and if yes, in which way?)

I had no issues with 2.5-4” of lift on the ZJ setup.

The benefit is that the TJ tie rod is hollow and not up to any amount of off-roading. The ZJ (from the V8) is solid and thicker - so while you may bend it eventually it’ll handle a lot more than the hollow TJ one.
 
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I am running 31x10.5r15 tires on a 2.5" lift.

Currie Currectlync is not an option for me for two reasons. 1) budget, 2) it is mentioned that you need additional bumpstops for small lifts.

ZJ Conversion would be a good choice. But I have two questions.
  1. Can you please confirm if there are any interference issues with 2.5" lift?
  2. Which would be a good reason to upgrade to the ZJ Tie rod, except from breaking my current Tie rod, and upgrading to a beefier one? Would a conversion like that be beneficial at all for my setup? (and if yes, in which way?)
Question # 1 - There are no interference issues to worry about
Question # 2 - Added strength (hollow smaller, to larger solid steering)
 
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I upgraded a couple years ago to the ZJ stock steering. Basically its solid steel instead of a hollow straw the stock tj had (wtf).

That being said I run 35's and might eventually go to 37s. The Zj stock isn't considered 1 ton steering is it? Would this be strong enough for 37's? I've never had any issues ever with the stock ZJ tie rod/drag link and 35s.

Cheers
 
I upgraded a couple years ago to the ZJ stock steering. Basically its solid steel instead of a hollow straw the stock tj had (wtf).

That being said I run 35's and might eventually go to 37s. The Zj stock isn't considered 1 ton steering is it? Would this be strong enough for 37's? I've never had any issues ever with the stock ZJ tie rod/drag link and 35s.

Cheers
AFAIK ur axle is a dana 30 and the stock steering on the ZJ it is our same TJ/XJ inverted Y steering that works. The stock tie rod/drag link is a weak point for 37's and an upgrade would be to put stronger rods there (someone will link it), alot of people here don't recommend HD crossover or 1 Ton steering when the factory Y link works perfectly fine and can be upgraded easily.
try the Currie Currectlync as Jerry says:
Crossover steering? | Jeep Wrangler TJ Forum
 
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The only reason whatsoever to be running a drop pitman arm, would be if you had a different style steering setup (i.e. crossover steering) as oppose to the stock Haltenberger design.

The only point you'd need to be running a drop pitman arm on the stock TJ Haltenberger style steering, would be if you were at a very excessive amount of lift (I'm talking probably 6" or more).

At 4" of lift on the stock TJ steering, you need to be running the stock pitman arm. If you run a drop pitman arm, you will run into all sorts of drivability issues.

And @Ahoragi is correct, with the Currie Currectlync, you should not be running a dropped pitman arm.

Like Jerry said at one point, it's all about simple geometry.

I think we may need a pitman arm FAQ!
I would like to add if you have a drop track bar (like for lots of down travel and for a double shear option) you would need a drop pitman.
 
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X2 to this. With that being said, I don't live in a rust prone area, and it's been 3 years almost with mine, and no rust at all.

You should NOT be running a drop pitman arm, that is a huge, huge mistake (though in all fairness it is a mistake that many first time Wrangler owners make). Whoever sold you that lift should be shunned for including a pitman arm with it at only 4". Put the stock one back on immediately, you'll thank me for it!
 
I need help identifying this steering assembly. My brother-in-law removed it from their 2004 Rubicon which had been modified by previous owner. We don’t know the make of this setup but need to replace the tie rod ends and drag link connection. Any ideas?
1648522307173.jpeg

1648522456401.jpeg
 
I need help identifying this steering assembly. My brother-in-law removed it from their 2004 Rubicon which had been modified by previous owner. We don’t know the make of this setup but need to replace the tie rod ends and drag link connection. Any ideas? View attachment 319109
View attachment 319112
This may not be what you want to hear, but I'd probably dump it and get a ZJ steering setup. That looks awful to adjust.
 
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