What lift should I get?

Johnsbluetj

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Dec 20, 2019
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Colorado
Hello and Merry Christmas!!! I'm currently running a rough country 2.5 suspension lift(springs and shocks) with 33x12.5x15's. With the new Christmas and birthday money, I want to add more height. Im debating on whether I should buy the rough country 4in. lift kit which includes
I want 4in of lift and this a decent price or it as I don't have much money, and it should be pretty much okay to ride right after I install everything. OR should I keep the 2.5in lift I have now and add a 1.25 savvy body mount lift and some motor mount lifts? Right now I'm leaning towards the rough country 4in complete suspension lift but I want to hear your guys' opinions!!
 
Keep your current lift and add the body lift and some Rancho 5000x shocks. Add on a RC adjustable track bar and some Black Magic brake pads. This will be a much better set up for you to build on and will be equally if not more capable.
 
Body lift. A combo gives more options.


Another option is to add a spacer to get you to 4”, Rancho 5000X, the SYE and DC.

Merry Christmas!
 
What size tires are you wanting to run?
With a BL, you won't need a MML, just adjust the fan shroud.
You can then add (better) quality parts over time as the budget allows.

With a 4" SL, you'll probably also need the SYE, MML, DC driveshaft, upper and lower adjustable control arms, front and rear adjustable track bar, etc, etc.
 
Add a body lift, some Rancho 5000X shocks and a MML. If you have driveline vibes or a lowered TC also add an SYS and DC driveline. An adjustable front track bar is not needed unless the axle shift is too pronounced. You can use a track bar relocation bracket for the rear. All this would be MUCH better than an RC lift and accomplish your same goal.
 
What size tires are you wanting to run?
With a BL, you won't need a MML, just adjust the fan shroud.
You can then add (better) quality parts over time as the budget allows.

With a 4" SL, you'll probably also need the SYE, MML, DC driveshaft, upper and lower adjustable control arms, front and rear adjustable track bar, etc, etc.
Ive got 33x12.5x15s
 
If your staying with 33s, then 3" SL plus BL will be easier and cheaper than 4"SL.
 
If your staying with 33s, then 3" SL plus BL will be easier and cheaper than 4"SL.
but do you think that just getting the 4in lift would be a good way to get the essential parts for the lift and be good all around? I feel like the suspension lift have the advantage of allowing me more articulation than adding a body lift
 
Have you wheeled it enough to know that your suspension travel and articulation are your limiting factors?

Or are you going to keep asking until someone finally gives you the answer you want to hear?
 
but do you think that just getting the 4in lift would be a good way to get the essential parts for the lift and be good all around? I feel like the suspension lift have the advantage of allowing me more articulation than adding a body lift

Cycle the axles without springs installed and see what happens. Everything needed to understand begins with understanding how to extend the bump stops.
 
but do you think that just getting the 4in lift would be a good way to get the essential parts for the lift and be good all around? I feel like the suspension lift have the advantage of allowing me more articulation than adding a body lift
So if you have already made your decision to do a shit lift vs. listening to the experience members of the tribe, why ask? The combination of body, suspension components, and shocks suggested by several of the members is proven to work for most jeep drivers. Unless you are one of the top 5% jeep drivers, you wont need what you are suggesting, and you would not be asking. Try to read some more on here, most of the higher end users that post on here like the savvy mid arm, outboarded shocks and currie steering/sway bars. Tim
 
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We are giving you the proper advice you should take it. From your post “what should I upgrade next” members told you to buy a 1.25” Savvy body lift and a motor mount lift with savvy transfer case cable as an option if your tcase shifter is done for. You will have zero problems with a body lift and will be helpful down the road for a tummy tuck and more room if you go up to 35’s in the future. The only product I have from Rough country is the 1” Motor mount lift spacer and that’s the only product I will buy from them. It’s not just about installing a $550 lift and done with your going to need more money to accompany that lift.

Read on Rough country lift reviews.
 
Have you wheeled it enough to know that your suspension travel and articulation are your limiting factors?

Or are you going to keep asking until someone finally gives you the answer you want to hear?
everything fits perfectly with the setup I have now. I think the body lift is the way to go
 
We are giving you the proper advice you should take it. From your post “what should I upgrade next” members told you to buy a 1.25” Savvy body lift and a motor mount lift with savvy transfer case cable as an option if your tcase shifter is done for. You will have zero problems with a body lift and will be helpful down the road for a tummy tuck and more room if you go up to 35’s in the future. The only product I have from Rough country is the 1” Motor mount lift spacer and that’s the only product I will buy from them. It’s not just about installing a $550 lift and done with your going to need more money to accompany that lift.

Read on Rough country lift reviews.
yeah, that's definitely the way to go. Everyone is vouching for it and now I see the the advantages it has
 
This is about a decade ago but this is the budget setup I had on my '06 SE when I was fresh out of high school. I still think for the total dollar I spent on this thing, it was pretty damn capable.

It was a Rough Country 2.5" spring lift, 0.75" coil spacers, (with appropriate length shitty RC shocks) 1" aluminum Currie body lift (I don't think they make anymore,) 1" JKS motor mount lift spacers, and the transfer case was dropped 3 washer to remove all vibration (subject to specific Jeep.) Front track bar was re-drilled, rear had a bracket. Steering was off a ZJ. Transfer case linkage was factory, but adjusted. Wheels were cragar soft 8s, tires were 33x12.5r15 Federal couragias. Brake lines I think were left stock but the fronts might have been moved down on the frame. Stock brakes were fine with the 6 speed.

There were no extended bump stops, there was definitely coil bind. But disco'd F/R the springs didn't fall out, the tires didn't rub, and it did pretty well. I beat the hell out of this Jeep, which is the only way to get through some obstacles with open diffs and a 4-pot. 😬 Honestly it's own form of fun.

It was, what it was, and I think it was the absolute limit of what you can do without making counter intuitive sacrifices. 4" is great but when you go that route, do it right, or you're just ruining your Jeep.

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(yeah I had a hilift on hood phase)
 
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