Who's had luck finding a Mopar radiator?

I’m in the middle of this right now. The newer year ones will work with the older TJ other than the automatic trans connection. If you order a newer year radiator, and you have an auto trans, my understanding is all you will need is the Hayden 397 part to connect up to the quick disconnect that is in the newer year radiators.

Not 100% sure if some kind of safety arm/clamp is needed to hold the quick disconnect from coming out of the connection port in the radiator (I sent a PM to try to figure this out). My plan is to use my stock tension clamp to connect the flexible hose to the Hayden 397 part

So since I have a manual, I should be alright regardless?
 
If it’s not the radiator, I’m not sure what could be causing the hwy temps to increase into the mid 220s (per OBD reader) but no issues driving around town or off-roading

What does the gauge show when you're seeing 220s on your reader? The gauge is an indicator that is manipulated by the PCM, so it doesn't read accurately. I've read several accounts on here that seeing high temps in the OBD data stream is not uncommon when the gauge is showing closer to 210. Here's one:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-accurate-is-the-engine-temp-gauge.40230/
Also, here's a thread where a faulty fan clutch was causing temps to increase at highway speeds:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/coolant-temp-increasing-at-highway-speeds.70188/page-2
 
Also, keep in mind that the radiator caps on the TJ are 18 psi, and the boiling point of 50/50 coolant at 18 psi is about 270°F.
 
What does the gauge show when you're seeing 220s on your reader? The gauge is an indicator that is manipulated by the PCM, so it doesn't read accurately. I've read several accounts on here that seeing high temps in the OBD data stream is not uncommon when the gauge is showing closer to 210. Here's one:

[URL][URL]https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-accurate-is-the-engine-temp-gauge.40230/[/URL][/URL]

Also, here's a thread where a faulty fan clutch was causing temps to increase at highway speeds:

[URL][URL]https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/coolant-temp-increasing-at-highway-speeds.70188/page-2[/URL][/URL]

Thanks for the info. When I’m running 220-224 this is what the gauges looks like. My numbers are from an OBD reader I use on my phone. So far my huge has been fairly normal from what I’ve read. 200-208 is just to the left of the 210 dot. 2010-212 is middle of 210 dot. And 212+ is just to the right of the 210 for. But even at 224 the needle is barely to the right of the dot so it losses accuracy at higher temps.

So far I’ve flushed the system, checked the t stat, put I. The correct HO5 coolant and replaced the fan clutch

I get up to mid 220s only on the hwy after 5-10 miles with no AC and not really pushing the jeep in 80/85 degree weather so I feel that something in my cooling system is not 100%. In the city and slow off-roading no high temp issues

I tried a new Hayden fan clutch and no luck, actually think the stock mopar kept the engine cooler at idle so will likely put it back in
 
I need to replace mine. Just bought a denso for $150. Hopefully my TJ won’t spontaneously combust now

It'll work fine. Everyone seems to think Mopar is the definition of quality...but Chrysler, Mopar, and quality don't go in the same sentence. It's unfortunate but just the way it is.

I have a Denso in my 2005. It's the one for an automatic (pretty much all you can find any more) but mine is a manual. I just left it open. Don't need it. I did think it would be kind of neat to run some lines from the oil system and install run engine oil through the transmission cooler. However, i have no idea what the pressure rating of the transmission cooler is and it doesn't need an oil cooler anyway. Wouldn't hurt but not needed. So, it sits unused and causes no issues.
 
It'll work fine. Everyone seems to think Mopar is the definition of quality...but Chrysler and quality don't go in the same sentence. It's unfortunate but just the way it is.

I have a Denso in my 2005. It's the one for an automatic (pretty much all you can find any more) but mine is a manual. I just left it open. Don't need it. I did think it would be kind of neat to run some lines from the oil system and install run engine oil through the transmission cooler. However, i have no idea what the pressure rating of the transmission cooler is and it doesn't need an oil cooler anyway. Wouldn't hurt but not needed. So, it sits unused and causes no issues.

From what I have gathered over researching for hours, not only on this forum, is that certain mopar parts were well designed for TJs. For example the radiator, per people’s findings like Jerry, was well designed to keep stock TJs at normal operating temps +-210. Other mopar parts, maybe they weren’t so well designed and there are better substitutes.

Reason I paid the $400 for a mopar rad is I want my TJ to run cooler than it does now. Some would think mid 220s on the hwy isn’t a concern but I see it as a problem that is slowly emerging and the last thing I want to do is overheat my 4.0 or 42RLE with only 118k miles.

That’s not to say other radiators aren’t going to cool the TJ to within acceptable range. I just wanted to go with one that was maximized for the TJ so that if it doesn’t bring me down to +-210 on the hwy, I know I need to replace my water pump.



Side note, I did read a thread where a TJ owner had a stock rad crack on him and he put a parts store rad in. Cooled the TJ just fine but he said he ran about 10 degrees hotter than when he had the stock radiator so that’s why I went with mopar
 
From what I have gathered over researching for hours, not only on this forum, is that certain mopar parts were well designed for TJs. For example the radiator, per people’s findings like Jerry, was well designed to keep stock TJs at normal operating temps +-210. Other mopar parts, maybe they weren’t so well designed and there are better substitutes.

Reason I paid the $400 for a mopar rad is I want my TJ to run cooler than it does now. Some would think mid 220s on the hwy isn’t a concern but I see it as a problem that is slowly emerging and the last thing I want to do is overheat my 4.0 or 42RLE with only 118k miles.

That’s not to say other radiators aren’t going to cool the TJ to within acceptable range. I just wanted to go with one that was maximized for the TJ so that if it doesn’t bring me down to +-210 on the hwy, I know I need to replace my water pump.



Side note, I did read a thread where a TJ owner had a stock rad crack on him and he put a parts store rad in. Cooled the TJ just fine but he said he ran about 10 degrees hotter than when he had the stock radiator so that’s why I went with mopar

No need to defend yourself. I don't have a problem with using Mopar parts. I personally don't get excited about only using Mopar parts because I've not been impressed with anything Mopar quality wise (I drive a Dodge vehicle for work and have for years, work has a ton of Dodge vehicles, and our mechanics will tell you about the low quality)....but that's just me. I'm sure your Mopar radiator will do exactly what you need it to. I'm also confident my Denso will do the same thing. It's been working great so far and I'm sure it will continue to do so. I've used Denso radiators in other vehicle's I've owned without problems. It's a sample size of one so take that how you will but I had a Toyota T100 and the OE radiator failed. The Denso replacement lasted more years and more miles than the Toyota OE.
 
Subscribing to see the end result with the Mopar radiator. Is it the big single core one?
 
Any updates? I'm waiting to see if a Mopar radiator would make mine run cooler when using the AC.
 
Mopar as far as I can tell. Looks just like the mopar ones I’ve been looking at ordering.

This a pic inside the radiator. When I drained and flushed the whole system, including the engine block, a few rust pieces came out but overall not much came out out and coolant was clean.

If it’s not the radiator, I’m not sure what could be causing the hwy temps to increase into the mid 220s (per OBD reader) but no issues driving around town or off-roading

View attachment 425080

Not a Mopar.

Mopar is a single core, lacking that little divider/bridge across the tube seen in your photo.

PXL_20230604_193647285.jpg


The way to know for certain is the Mopar logo molded into the lower tank above the drain valve.

PXL_20230604_193658479.jpg
 
It may be moving the water slower than is optimal. The water is still moving, but not fast enough to circulate it as well as it might. The heater takes the water running through it and cools it just enough to matter. Maybe.

Your thought process is solid. The water pump could be the root cause of poor cooling capacity but turning on the heater still adds capacity and can make up for some or all of the capacity lost due to low flow.
 
Is the only difference between the 2000 and the 2003 radiator the connection method for the transmission lines? I have a 2000 with a manual so the one from Rock Auto should fit?
 
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Any updates? I'm waiting to see if a Mopar radiator would make mine run cooler when using the AC.

I posted the results on another thread.

The new mopar radiator is working perfectly. I see temps from 190’s -206/208 now. Turns out my existing radiator had a bunch of leaves packed into the radiator that couldn’t been seen without pulling it out of the jeep. That was likely the cause of high speed temps, air restriction. I put the new mopar radiator in and saved my previous radiator

70624202098__E355633F-01B3-4153-B4F5-60CEAF64EB2A.jpeg
 
Thanks, I am trying to figure out why Rock Auto says the same radiator won't fit my 2000. I am thinking it's because the automatic transmission line connections changed which doesn't matter since like you, I have a manual.
 
Thanks, I am trying to figure out why Rock Auto says the same radiator won't fit my 2000. I am thinking it's because the automatic transmission line connections changed which doesn't matter since like you, I have a manual.

That is my understanding and from what I’ve read, using a radiator made for an auto in a manual jeep is a no problem. You just don’t use the auto cooler input at the bottom of the radiator.

I used a mopar rad made for an auto 05’ for my 03’ auto (only difference was quick disconnects into the radiator which Hayden 397 fixed that).