Winter Hibernation prep for your grass machines

[Ahoragi]

I am a first time mower/trimmer owner so I'm curious what you guys do to prep your machines for the winter. I remember my dad would just change the oil and clean the filter and leave them in the shed. I'm looking to learn some tricks to make my machines last forever.

What I did (followed manual):

Self-propelled mower:
Pumped gas out
Ran till dry
Drained oil.
Removed blades, sharpened, and fluid filmed
Cleaned grass out of deck and fluid filmed it
Removed plug, added a tsp of oil, cranked a couple times, installed new plug
Filled with new oil
Cleaned filter

Gas Trimmer:
Emptied gas tank, treated gas, refilled gas tank.
Ran for 5 minutes at full throttle
Removed plug, added tsp of oil, cranked a few times
installed new plug
cleaned filter



Both are being stored in my basement.

Did I miss anything or any suggestions? There are mixed opinions about draining gas and not draining gas (using treated gas). What do you guys do?

 

[derekmac]

Mine have been stored outside in the shed for the past 6 winters, and the most I've done is add some fuel stabilizer, and run them for a bit. They always start in the spring after a couple of pulls.

I do clean them, and spray some anti corrosion spray on them so they don't rust.

 

[Tbird Clair]

I've been wondering the same thing. First time mower owners. Bought a used Simplicity lawn tractor this spring, and I've been meaning to pay attention to it but I got distracted by my jeep [emoji57]

 

[Chris]

All I do is add ethanol free fuel (this is an absolute MUST) with stabilizers in it. I've been doing that for years and they start up every summer just fine.

The problems start to occur when you use pump gas with ethanol in it. That stuff is evil.

This is the stuff I buy for fuel:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZEO2DQ6/?tag=wranglerorg-20

It's ethanol free and it has all the stabilizers in it so that you can store the equipment without draining the fuel.

 

[Phil Younger]

My lawn tractor gets the deck pulled off and a 54" snowblower mounted on it so it is used year round- I store it in a shed that I keep just above freezing so the hydraulics are not so stiff and the ice melts out of the blower housing.
My chainsaws get no prep for winter- i use all 3 of them at least every 1-2 months. They are all from 10-30 years old and I use ethanol gas in them. Secret is to fill the tanks or run them out of fuel and I store their gas mix IN A SEALED GLASS CONTAINER in a dark cool place. Never have had to work on their fuel systems or carbs. I never use a fuel additive other than a quality 100:1 2 stroke oil mixed at 50:1
Nowadays the only two things that get prepped for winter is a push mower I use for cleanup and my pressure washer. I simply either run them out of fuel or if that is not possible I shut off the tank bottom valve and let the carb run dry then top the tank off. They run on E10 ethanol gas also.
The only time I ever had trouble with the above method was when I tried to do the same with no ethanol premium gas- seriously! I had a sticking float/needle in one carb from the gas evaporating away leaving some varnish/gum. I am anti gas additive- particularly some of the companies that promote it as a real problem solver such as Stabil. (though I do have a small bottle of the marine version that I use for the end of season boat engine flush-along with oil misting the engine).
I spent over 25 years in the fuels distribution business (even was around during the first oil embargo and the resulting Gasohol era). For many years I was the tech who heard out/researched/resolved complaints. Most of that was in the regular fossil fuel side but 6 years was in the ethanol industry. I got to see some ugly slander of anyone who challenges the old line oil industry (read ethanol industry)- I no longer trust anything that comes from API.
What matters most is how your fuel is stored- is the fuel container air tight, kept full as possible, and stored in a cool dark place? If the engine tank is vented--do you fill it each time after you use it one the engine has cooled for safety? Do you store the machine where rain cannot get onto the fill cap? Do you avoid using fuel additives that may clash with the additives already in gas or diesel? AND NEVER USE HEET in the yellow bottle! —-that is methanol which does attack metals and is very hydroscopic. That will kill a small engine carb. Racers who use methanol must drain their tanks and carbs immediately after every race and cannot keep a barrel that has been opened very long. Enough on that for now- I don't want to jack this thread. If someone wants to know more PM me.

 

[Phil Younger]

I will say that you guys in coastal areas do have to be even more vigilant due to your high humidity and do whatever works for you--but it is humid here also other than January/February- you are just worse off. Water in gasoline is really really bad and ethanol actually dries out the tank if you use start the engine monthly versus just sitting in the tank bottom forever. When E10 sits in a humid climate with a partially filled tank with a breather hole then moisture can go the other way and if you let it get 6 months old you may get formic or acetic acid--at that point E10 is worse than straight gas. Just keep the tank full, seal the cap if possible, drain the tank at season end, if possible start the engine bi-monthly (only if do did not run the carb dry).