Wrangler TJ Ball Joint Replacement

Queticon said:
so that jaw/finger thing shown in the video isn't necessary? There are some cheap ones on Amazon, but they look as cheap as they are and some reviews say the tool broke on the first try.
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I never bother with them. I usually just use a hammer to remove the knuckle from the ball joints and the steering joints from the knuckle.

Occasionally I do have to use a pickle fork set. The disadvantage of a pickle fork is it usually damages the joint being separated. The clamp used in the video probably doesn't cause as much damage. But if you're replacing the joint, normally you don't care about damaging it.

I have a pickle fork set similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F5HUTO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I do recommend buying the OTC ball joint press and OTC adapter set for the TJ. Makes life a lot easier
 
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If you are rolling in dough, get the SO BJP1. It is a beast, best you can own. If not, the OTC is perfect for the Jeep. I use that clamp when I need to disconnect tie rods or BJs that I am re-using. I got a cheap one and it has worked fine. The pickle fork and BFH has been used for over half of a century as the standard persuaders.
 
Queticon said:
ok for the press, but what tool do you recommend for separating the ball joint?
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There are a few "balljoints" involved when changing out the upper and lower ball joints that the knuckle mounts to. First you have to get the Tie Rod End off the steering arm.

There is a very easy method to do that. Take a large center punch and set the end of it on the end of the pin that you removed the castle nut and cotter pin from. It generally has a small divot in the center for the end of the punch to lock into. Hold that steady and smack the punch with a large hammer. That will pop the pin right out with no damage to anything.

Near the top of the steering knuckle is a small platform just outboard of the upper pin. Using a large shop hammer, strike that downwards with some force after you remove the cotter pins and nuts. Takes about 3 enthusiastic smacks to pop it off the pins. FYI, someone posted up a pic out of the service manual that shows to do it that way. Works every time.
 
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Another trick...if you have compressed air at your disposal and an air hammer...apply a bit of pressure with a prybar to pry the joint apart, and give the knuckle a quick braap with a blunt tip on the air hammer. This will separate just about any tapered joint without leaving hammer marks.
 
One of the biggest questions on this topic is always around getting the tools themselves. Figuring out which kits do/do not include the required tools to work on our TJ's seems to be a challenge.

So I went and checked everything I could get from every local store that offered them, and then bought a couple sets on Amazon so I'd have comparators.

Here is what I found that works:
  1. Best Overall: If you have the money, the Snap-On BJP1 ball joint kit is the best. It is also $735 MSRP.
  2. Best Value: The Astro Pneumatic 7897 gets terrific reviews and has all the pieces you need. I've got one sitting right next to the Powerbuilt and OTC kit (below) and they appear identical. I'm not saying they are, I'm simply observing that I can't tell the difference in the tools other than paint.
  3. Best Rental: Powerbuilt 648617 Kit 46 contains all the pieces you need and then some. Available for rent from Advance Auto Parts or Autozone or latest pricing on Amazon. Your extra coin gets you a case where each tool slot is labeled. Note that Powerbuilt is owned by Alltrade, so you'll see those names interchangeably.
  4. Best Add-on: OTC 7894 adapter set. If you already own a press then this is the kit for you as it will save you some money in an absolute sense. The cost per piece is obviously much higher. No case included, but the tools themselves appear to be very high quality. OTC used to be an American company, but is now owned by Bosch.
For those of you with an O'Reilly Auto Parts, the Evertough 67045 and 67048 kits do NOT include the adapters you need. Some people swear by Harbor Freight - I have no idea and wouldn't trust their quality on something under this amount of stress.

Hope this helps when people are looking for kits!

Doug
 
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I should also add that if you are doing the tie rods and steering components as well, you will need most of the tools in the OTC 6295 Front End Service Set for Pitman Arms, Ball Joints, and Tie Rods. Not required and you can get away with fewer (or renting them individually from the local place), but I used 3 of them to get into the various spaces, and that didn't include pulling my pitman arm.
 
I have the BJP1 as well as one of the standard OTC knockoff types you see copied everywhere. The BJP1 is leaps and bounds better, the others do work. When you are doing the balls on a crusty old one ton truck or the like, you will appreciate the Snap-On. The TJ is not much of a challenge for the average press. That OTC front end set is pretty convenient. OTC was a leader in shop tools, the old ones were all forged in the US. Sad to see them outsource much of their production, but their tools are still good.
 
Wingback73 said:
One of the biggest questions on this topic is always around getting the tools themselves. Figuring out which kits do/do not include the required tools to work on our TJ's seems to be a challenge.

So I went and checked everything I could get from every local store that offered them, and then bought a couple sets on Amazon so I'd have comparators.

Here is what I found that works:
  1. Best Overall: If you have the money, the Snap-On BJP1 ball joint kit is the best. It is also $735 MSRP.
  2. Best Value: The Astro Pneumatic 7897 gets terrific reviews and has all the pieces you need. I've got one sitting right next to the Powerbuilt and OTC kit (below) and they appear identical. I'm not saying they are, I'm simply observing that I can't tell the difference in the tools other than paint.
  3. Best Rental: Powerbuilt 648617 Kit 46 contains all the pieces you need and then some. Available for rent from Advance Auto Parts or Autozone or latest pricing on Amazon. Your extra coin gets you a case where each tool slot is labeled. Note that Powerbuilt is owned by Alltrade, so you'll see those names interchangeably.
  4. Best Add-on: OTC 7894 adapter set. If you already own a press then this is the kit for you as it will save you some money in an absolute sense. The cost per piece is obviously much higher. No case included, but the tools themselves appear to be very high quality. OTC used to be an American company, but is now owned by Bosch.
For those of you with an O'Reilly Auto Parts, the Evertough 67045 and 67048 kits do NOT include the adapters you need. Some people swear by Harbor Freight - I have no idea and wouldn't trust their quality on something under this amount of stress.

Hope this helps when people are looking for kits!

Doug
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Thanks for taking the time to do a comparison. Chris's first post mentioned the adapters below. Does the Astro Pneumatic 7897 kit have something comparable?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRGW0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Wingback73 said:
Yes, all 4 of those parts are in all the kits I mentioned, including the Astro.
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That's what I needed to know. The last two sets of ball joints I've installed were with a tool from Advance. One had the needed adapter, one didn't. I'm going to order a ball joint tool and this helps.

Thanks! (y)
 
I can't figure out what the C-clip and that other thing with the threads are for.
I've already removed both ball joints and all that came out was the ball joint and what was left of the dust boot.

ball-joint-parts.jpg
 
Some of the parts aren't needed for the TJ application, and are to be discarded. I never needed the coil or the clip. You will need the nut and cotter pin for sure.
 
Twofish said:
I can't figure out what the C-clip and that other thing with the threads are for.
I've already removed both ball joints and all that came out was the ball joint and what was left of the dust boot.

View attachment 174733
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Pre 90 Jeep knuckles don't have a floating upper pin like the TJ does. They do the adjustment with that threaded sleeve in the lower hole in the knuckle.
 
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Would I be dumb to not just go ahead and replace the inner axle seals while I have everything apart for this and U-joints? I've got analysis paralysis and the job honestly looks intimidating to me, messing with the diff and carrier. Really don't want to put everything back together though only to take it apart again.
 
Not_Invented_Here_ said:
Would I be dumb to not just go ahead and replace the inner axle seals while I have everything apart for this and U-joints? I've got analysis paralysis and the job honestly looks intimidating to me, messing with the diff and carrier. Really don't want to put everything back together though only to take it apart again.
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I've done it. Just keep track of the shims and you'll be fine. I set up a cardboard box with old packing material and must rolled the carrier into it. My carrier just fell out, though most need a bit of prying due to the preload.

A 36mm socket (same as for the axle nut) is great for pounding in and out the axle seals. Use a crapload of extensions to make it work.

I also took a steel bristled pipe/chimney brush and scrubbed all the dirt out of the tubes at the same time. (I was also installing pound in axle sleeves, which provide only a small amount of extra bending strength.)

Getting the shafts out is half the work.
 
Steel City 06 said:
I've done it. Just keep track of the shims and you'll be fine. I set up a cardboard box with old packing material and must rolled the carrier into it. My carrier just fell out, though most need a bit of prying due to the preload.

A 36mm socket (same as for the axle nut) is great for pounding in and out the axle seals. Use a crapload of extensions to.make it work.

I also took a steel bristled pipe/chimney brush and scrubbed all the dirt out of the tubes at the same time. (I was also installing pound in axle sleeves, which provide only a small amount of extra bending strength.)

Getting the shafts out is half the work.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm still a little in the dark on how it all works once I get in the diff. I need to change the fluid anyway so this would be killing 2 birds with 1 stone. Being scared to do it is a bad reason not to I know.

Basically I've just gotten the hubs off and I'm ready to pull the shafts out. Planning to get to work again this Friday and want to make my decision by then.
 
Not_Invented_Here_ said:
Yeah, I'm still a little in the dark on how it all works once I get in the diff. I need to change the fluid anyway so this would be killing 2 birds with 1 stone. Being scared to do it is a bad reason not to I know.

Basically I've just gotten the hubs off and I'm ready to pull the shafts out. Planning to get to work again this Friday and want to make my decision by then.
Click to expand...
Once you crack open the differential cover and remove the axle shaft, there's only 4 bolts that hold the carrier in, plus maybe an air or electric connection if you have a locker. You really can't mess it up unless you pry hard against a functional surface like a gear tooth or straight up drop the carrier on the floor.

Set up a cardboard box with some old towels or something in front of the differential to catch it in case it pops out faster than you expect if you have to pry.

The most difficult part of it for me was the locker air connection and locker sensor. And that wasn't all that bad.
 
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Steel City 06 said:
Once you crack open the differential cover and remove the axle shaft, there's only 4 bolts that hold the carrier in, plus maybe an air or electric connection if you have a locker. You really can't mess it up unless you pry hard against a functional surface like a gear tooth or straight up drop the carrier on the floor.

Set up a cardboard box with some old towels or something in front of the differential to catch it in case it pops out faster than you expect if you have to pry.

The most difficult part of it for me was the locker air connection and locker sensor. And that wasn't all that bad.
Click to expand...

Appreciate it, and no locker or anything here - just your standard Dana 30 from the factory. I'm already well outside of my comfort zone so I may as well just go for it. Appreciate the pep talk
 
Not_Invented_Here_ said:
Appreciate it, and no locker or anything here - just your standard Dana 30 from the factory. I'm already well outside of my comfort zone so I may as well just go for it. Appreciate the pep talk
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Watch a YouTube video or two. That should give you a better idea.
Here's one:
I didn't bother verifying the backlash.

And looking at that reminded me: take a photo of your bearing caps so you know how they go back in. They need to be the same cap in the same orientation.
 
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