If you look closely at that angled adapter you’ll see a small notch cut into it. It’s supposed to be oriented towards the outer edge of the knuckle.
Wrangler TJ Ball Joint Replacement
- Thread starter Chris
- Start date
If you look closely at that angled adapter you’ll see a small notch cut into it. It’s supposed to be oriented towards the outer edge of the knuckle.
If you look closely at that angled adapter you’ll see a small notch cut into it. It’s supposed to be oriented towards the outer edge of the knuckle.
Good to know. Hopefully I don't have to do it again for another 160k miles.
I use it pointed up also. And the angled adapter has a little notch that i point 90 degrees in relation to the jeep.
Afreeman
New Member
Need some advice...i need to do my 2nd replacement of ball joints soon. Problem is I dont remember if the first replacements are knurled or not. I purchased moog from advance auto and they seem to sell both versions. Am I stuck with knurled from now on if the first set were? If I cannot go back to using spicer, whats a good knurled recommendation?
Get the Spicer joints. Use Loctite 680 if you had knurled joints. Make sure to buy the Loctite primer, cleaner, activator also.
I don’t think the Moog ball joints are knurled. Looking at pictures of them they appear to be smooth
Afreeman
New Member
I think these may be the ones I used.
Using loctite seems like it will make it near impossible to get them out in the future. Have you done this before and pulled them out without problem?
Yeah those ones are knurled. Searching the part numbers elsewhere confirms it.
No idea on the loctite.
Time for a new axle? Haha
[QUOTE="Afreeman, post: 335075, Using loctite seems like it will make it near impossible to get them out in the future. Have you done this before and pulled them out without problem?
[/QUOTE]
Yes, I’ve used this method before, yes they will come out with a ball joint press.
[/QUOTE]
Yes, I’ve used this method before, yes they will come out with a ball joint press.
So one of the shaft guides fell out with the shaft. I didn't see it until I put everything back together. Do I need to pull the shaft and put it back in?
No, that is just a disposable “tool” to help guide the shaft when reinstalling. Don’t even need it on a TJ as the seal is designed to help guide the shaft.
Thanks!
That's what I thought. Just double checking. I've done stupider things haha
Lowlife
New Member
My ball joints are bad. I'm going to replace them. Question I have is what else should I replace while I have it apart?
1. Ball joints
2. Wheel bearings
3. U joints
4. Axle seals
It's got over 213000 miles so I figure it's time
I feel like I'm missing something
I just put on a crown tie rod kit and adjustable track bar
TB and DL is Paralell with each other
Started getting the death wobble and now it's bump steer
Thanks in advance for you input
1. Ball joints
2. Wheel bearings
3. U joints
4. Axle seals
It's got over 213000 miles so I figure it's time
I feel like I'm missing something
I just put on a crown tie rod kit and adjustable track bar
TB and DL is Paralell with each other
Started getting the death wobble and now it's bump steer
Thanks in advance for you input
You can also replace the differential carrier bearings while you are doing the seals. Check all the steering components and their alignment. Steering dampener? May as well carefully inspect your brake components while you are there. It is fun to freshen up all the parts. Many components pass inspection, but the ride, drivability and performance may improve with new parts. Most of those parts are not expensive.
Lowlife
New Member
I noticed the front wheel wobbling and got a shimmy in my steering wheel. So after much forum reading started with tie rods. That has eliminated the shimmy best I can tell. But now when driving it goes left or right with and little bump or anything, basically continue to fight to keep it straight. So more reading and I did the bar under the tire test and I have a lot of movement.
Now since I have to tear it down I figure spend the cash so it's all done at once for the most part.
That sounds more like a bad alignment than bump steer; what's the toe set at, currently?
Lowlife
New Member
I haven't checked it after I replaced the tie rods. I drove it around the block a little and back then checked the ball joints and I figured with the amount of movement that would be my next thing to replace. With the mileage and I don't think much was done to keep it up it was time to just start replacing everything I could so I don't have to tear it down again real soon. Plus I will know when it's all been done. I do have a little leak from my drivers side seal too. Once I'm done with everything I was going to try the driveway alainment option I've read about on here and see how close I can get
Check your toe-in before you do anything else; without having aligned it, you could be dealing with anything from "doesn't track well" to "destroying tires" to "oh fuck I can't steer at all."
Take your time and it will produce a toe-in angle every bit as accurate as an expert with the latest laser-augmented alignment rack can produce. Really, no exaggeration.
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