Yet another regearing question

[JMT]

I hope @Jerry Bransford chimes in because I think he will tell you to get Revolution. I have used Yukon gears before, but I haven't ever seen a Yukon s35 axle. Also it sounds like they are not selling you a kit. Meaning if they are selling you bearings then they are piecing this together. I have never seen Yukon s35 axles before. Not saying there is not such a thing, but all of the s35 kits I have researched came with bearings and such. That might be a minor deal, so I am hoping @Jerry Bransford has better info than me.

Also I might be wrong on this, but I have read somewhere that the elocker also uses air? Does it need to be plumbed too?

Pricing out a S35 kit with a ARB it was like 1600-1800 or so, so your prices aren't that for out there with labor, but no warranty scares me. that seems like they have no liability. It might be time to learn how to install a locker yourself? Even you can beat a no warranty

I am kind of in the market myself and the only reason why I am bringing any of this up is because @Jerry Bransford and @Chris really hard sell Revolution. Although I don't have any experience with Revolution that they advertise it so much, I am inclined to look into it.

I am considering 456 ARB revolution gears and axles myself.

I'm sure he will say Revolution too. My problem is when I go that route the shops either force me to buy my own parts, which they will not warranty, and they won't warranty their work either, or they price goes up substantially ($300-400 is substantial to me). The shop who does the Yukon parts will warranty their labor for 1 year with manufacturer's warranty on the parts. They will also document the entire process with pictures. I'm not sure there is really any difference between the Yukon Gears in 4.56 and the Revolution Discovery Series. I'm sure someone can comment on that if I'm wrong. As far as the shafts, they are 1541H, which is what you want for the Dana 35, it's the Dana 44 that prefers the Chromoly 4340.

As far as the e-locker, no, it does not use air. It is electronic only. They run electric from your locker switch to the differential the e-locker is installed in.

The shop that has a warranty is charging $1500 for re-gear, including parts and labor, $850 for the e-locker, $265 for the 30 spline shafts and 1 hour labor. That's how the price gets to $2700. The regear is a little steep, in my opinion, but not much, $2600 would be a very good price IMHO.

 

[Mr. Bills]

Use the shop with the warranty.

There is no significant difference between Revolution gears and Yukon gears. Revolution always sources its gears from Circle K in South Korea and depending upon the particular shipment the Yukon gearsets may be Circle K as well. Even if from another source, Yukon only supplies quality parts and warranties what they sell.

There is also no significant difference between Revolution imported axle shafts and anyone else's imported axles.

[Disclosure: I am running Revolution (aka Circle K) 5.38 gears in my '06 LJR, not because I am a fanboy but because Revolution is currently the only source for that ratio for the TJ/LJ Rubicon Dana 44 axles.)

 

[Chris]

While I like Revolution, I would go with whatever gears the installer will warranty and feel comfortable with. That's the only way you should do it. Don't force them to install Revolution gears if they won't warranty it.

My local gear installer is good. He told me he'll install whatever gears I want AND warranty them.

 

[xxdabroxx]

Okay. Another consideration has entered the equation:
Any experience/thoughts on the Detroit TruTrac LSD?

I love mine, I paired it with upgraded axles and it seems to be holding up just fine. If your suspension works well and you aren't crawling giant boulders I think they are a great option. (I also put an electric locker in the front Dana 30 that has also been great) I've had mine in everything but sand. Mud, snow, rocks, dry/ wet pavement, dry dirt roads have all been great. I don't doubt one bit that sand will work just fine as well. I've never had it fail to spin both tires.

 

[ac_]

I'm sure he will say Revolution too. My problem is when I go that route the shops either force me to buy my own parts, which they will not warranty, and they won't warranty their work either, or they price goes up substantially ($300-400 is substantial to me). The shop who does the Yukon parts will warranty their labor for 1 year with manufacturer's warranty on the parts. They will also document the entire process with pictures. I'm not sure there is really any difference between the Yukon Gears in 4.56 and the Revolution Discovery Series. I'm sure someone can comment on that if I'm wrong. As far as the shafts, they are 1541H, which is what you want for the Dana 35, it's the Dana 44 that prefers the Chromoly 4340.

As far as the e-locker, no, it does not use air. It is electronic only. They run electric from your locker switch to the differential the e-locker is installed in.

The shop that has a warranty is charging $1500 for re-gear, including parts and labor, $850 for the e-locker, $265 for the 30 spline shafts and 1 hour labor. That's how the price gets to $2700. The regear is a little steep, in my opinion, but not much, $2600 would be a very good price IMHO.

Thanks for clearing that up. I have used Yukon gear before. In fact I used Yukon gear in my YJ when I did my front and rear 456, and in fact have never heard of revolution gear till I joined this site. But I don't really know the difference in quality of the gear.

I wish you lived in Arizona cause it would be fun to hang out and do the gears. Once I get my suspension all buttoned up gear are in my future too. I am probably going to do mine in the spring so this is good info.

 

[JMT]

Thanks for clearing that up. I have used Yukon gear before. In fact I used Yukon gear in my YJ when I did my front and rear 456, and in fact have never heard of revolution gear till I joined this site. But I don't really know the difference in quality of the gear.

I wish you lived in Arizona cause it would be fun to hang out and do the gears. Once I get my suspension all buttoned up gear are in my future too. I am probably going to do mine in the spring so this is good info.

It would be way fun to do the gears together. I'm almost willing to try, but it's a little daunting. If you check post #42 above, Mr Bills says there are "no significant differences" between Yukon Gears or Shafts and Revolution.

 

[JMT]

I love mine, I paired it with upgraded axles and it seems to be holding up just fine. If your suspension works well and you aren't crawling giant boulders I think they are a great option. (I also put an electric locker in the front Dana 30 that has also been great) I've had mine in everything but sand. Mud, snow, rocks, dry/ wet pavement, dry dirt roads have all been great. I don't doubt one bit that sand will work just fine as well. I've never had it fail to spin both tires.

I actually read somewhere that the best locker for sand is an e-locker, not sure why or what difference it would make relative to other selectable lockers like the ARB

 

[Westtown Willy]

Hijacking this old thread for a question. I have three quotes for the following:

Includes
Yukon 4.56 gears
Master bearing and seal kits
Rear outer axle bearings and seals
Yukon 1541 30 spline rear shafts
Rear 30 spline Eaton e locker
Wiring locker
Labor
1 year warranty on labor
Parts warranty by manufacturer

Shop 1
$2900 Parts and labor out the door: EDIT: $2700 as I already have the 3.73 and up carrier. Will document all work with pictures

Shop 2
All parts listed as Yukon above would be Revolution
$3069 + tax

Shop 3
All parts listed as Yukon above would be Revolution
$2692 + tax
No warranty

Shop 1 only deals in Yukon. Are these prices reasonable?

In your options are you including regearing both axles or is this all prorated for the rear only? I paid $2,418 for my rear only, a Revolution Super35 (gears, bearings, seals & shafts) & ARB locker, braided lines, high output compressor & labor

 

[JMT]

In your options are you including regearing both axles or is this all prorated for the rear only? I paid $2,418 for my rear only, a Revolution Super35 (gears, bearings, seals & shafts) & ARB locker, braided lines, high output compressor & labor

The price includes re-gearing the front and rear. E-locker in the rear only. Dana 30 shafts in the rear only. Comparing it to your case, $2,700 sounds like a good deal...Thanks!

 

[Jerry Bransford]

In your options are you including regearing both axles or is this all prorated for the rear only? I paid $2,418 for my rear only, a Revolution Super35 (gears, bearings, seals & shafts) & ARB locker, braided lines, high output compressor & labor

Don't let your shop use heavy-duty or braided air lines when installing your ARB. Even ARB advises against doing so. Instead, use the standard air lines that come in ARB's kit.

Yes I know that sounds surprising but I first got that recommendation during a briefing from ARB I attended when I worked for a company who was an ARB dealer. ARB's FAQ will confirm this. The reason being that if you snag a reinforced or extra-heavy duty air line while offroading, the air line itself will survive but the fitting the air line attaches to will be damaged/yanked out producing damage that will be impossible to repair on the trail. But if you snag the standard air line, it will snap instead which can be repaired in 1-2 minutes using ARB's quick airline spice kit. But if you or the shop runs the air lines with care and planning, you won't have to worry about snagging your ARB's air lines any more than you have to worry about snagging your fuel or brake lines.

This from ARB's FAQ athttp://arbusa.com/Contact/FAQ.aspx

"Q) Does ARB offer a stainless air line to go with the ARB Air Locking Differential?
ARB does offer a heavy duty Aeroquip reinforced rubber hose kit for the Air Locker, part number HDAL.

Note, this kit is available due to popular request, however ARB believes that a correctly installed Air Locker with the standard nylon tube correctly routed along the path of the brake lines of the vehicle is the best for most applications.

Why? Well a reinforced rubber or stainless line can still be snagged, but will do a lot more damage to related components and it is much harder to repair this damage in the field.

A nylon line repair kit is available part number ASK001 and it contains spare line a connector and spare hardware to make speedy and simple field repairs."

 

[Westtown Willy]

Don't let your shop use heavy-duty or braided air lines when installing your ARB. Even ARB advises against doing so. Instead, use the standard air lines that come in ARB's kit.

Yes I know that sounds surprising but I first got that recommendation during a briefing from ARB I attended when I worked for a company who was an ARB dealer. ARB's FAQ will confirm this. The reason being that if you snag a reinforced or extra-heavy duty air line while offroading, the air line itself will survive but the fitting the air line attaches to will be damaged/yanked out producing damage that will be impossible to repair on the trail. But if you snag the standard air line, it will snap instead which can be repaired in 1-2 minutes using ARB's quick airline spice kit. But if you or the shop runs the air lines with care and planning, you won't have to worry about snagging your ARB's air lines any more than you have to worry about snagging your fuel or brake lines.

This from ARB's FAQ athttp://arbusa.com/Contact/FAQ.aspx

"Q) Does ARB offer a stainless air line to go with the ARB Air Locking Differential?
ARB does offer a heavy duty Aeroquip reinforced rubber hose kit for the Air Locker, part number HDAL.

Note, this kit is available due to popular request, however ARB believes that a correctly installed Air Locker with the standard nylon tube correctly routed along the path of the brake lines of the vehicle is the best for most applications.

Why? Well a reinforced rubber or stainless line can still be snagged, but will do a lot more damage to related components and it is much harder to repair this damage in the field.

A nylon line repair kit is available part number ASK001 and it contains spare line a connector and spare hardware to make speedy and simple field repairs."

Damn I never thought of that & it's funny that you brought this up. Just this past Saturday I was wheeling with a buddy that has ARB lockers & he kept getting out & popping his hood. Finally we both stopped & I asked him what he was looking for, said he couldn't get his front locker to engage & he was looking for a leak (compressor stayed on non-stop when engaging the front), we we hearing a hissing sound we traced to somewhere behind the wheel well, figured maybe the plastic line split or melted... We had a long talk about the lines, showed him mine & we both agreed he needed braided lines like mine to avoid this type of situation.

Got a text from him yesterday telling me it wasn't the line after all, but something to do with the fitting at or where it enters the diff housing & the shop is repairing it under warranty. I'm now wondering if he asked them to change the lines, i'll get in touch with him to let him know the deal - thank you for the heads up!

And to think, I paid extra for them