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So,,,,,you like being single?

😉
Hey... I've always got a cool jeep if I need to pick a lady up ;)

I bet the dog is happy with the van.
It should be a great parts hauler.


Gotta look for the silver lining.
Yep! Space is nice, the puppy LOVES it. I don't really love it but eh the used car market is crazy right now so I'd take a boring van with low miles over something "cool" with 200k+
 
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Wow feels like I've been waiting forever but it's finally here! Super shorty SYE. Man it's exciting to finally have something to do to the jeep again. Now I just need to find time to work on it, since it looks like I'm in for a semester chock full of meaningless busywork for the next 8 weeks
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Wow feels like I've been waiting forever but it's finally here! Super shorty SYE. Man it's exciting to finally have something to do to the jeep again. Now I just need to find time to work on it, since it looks like I'm in for a semester chock full of meaningless busywork for the next 8 weeks
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Make sure you torque it to spec correctly. Jb calls for something like 220 ft/lbs for the yoke to cinch up against the tone ring
 
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I want to cycle my suspension and set bumpstops, I have a box of pucks to space it up... Should I anticipate definitely needing new jounces and/or jounce cups? Or is there potential mine are reusable and I just put pucks underneath?
 
I want to cycle my suspension and set bumpstops, I have a box of pucks to space it up... Should I anticipate definitely needing new jounces and/or jounce cups? Or is there potential mine are reusable and I just put pucks underneath?
I would measure without the jaunces in there, just so you know where you're at from good reference points.

That said, if they're in decent shape you can use what you have. Just be sure to pay attention to how they compress - the stock ones really aren't that stiff and will fully squish. Compare that to one like the set from currie where they have a little give but are progressively harder so they better control the speed change at the end of the travel (picture a crumple zone in a car).
 
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I would measure without the jaunces in there, just so you know where you're at from good reference points.

That said, if they're in decent shape you can use what you have. Just be sure to pay attention to how they compress - the stock ones really aren't that stiff and will fully squish. Compare that to one like the set from currie where they have a little give but are progressively harder so they better control the speed change at the end of the travel (picture a crumple zone in a car).
Okay thanks... I want to measure without them because they will pretty much fully compress right? I'm just measuring so I know how much height I need to add in pucks to have them stop the axle before anything collides right, not like any kind of specific inches I need anywhere?

I'll look into those, hopefully what I have right now isn't too damaged so I don't have to spend too much on this one I kinda figured it'd be a cheap fine-tuning thing
 
Okay thanks... I want to measure without them because they will pretty much fully compress right?
Id measure without the cup too, in order to know the full bump stop number. You'd subtract the cup distance from the puck to get the final amount you add though. But yes, the jaunce from what I recall will fully compress (it just slows the final movement). Don't buy into the accordions that MC sells (ask me how I know!).

I'm just measuring so I know how much height I need to add in pucks to have them stop the axle before anything collides right, not like any kind of specific inches I need anywhere?
Yeah, you want to stop the movement before it impacts anything. There's some discussion around whether or not the shocks being the final bump stop is okay or not. I lean toward it's fine if the movement is slowed.
I'll look into those, hopefully what I have right now isn't too damaged so I don't have to spend too much on this one I kinda figured it'd be a cheap fine-tuning thing
You should be in good shape with the OEM setup for a while. Let me know if yours are torn up, I think I kept mine which were fine (had maybe 55k on them).
 
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Id measure without the cup too, in order to know the full bump stop number. You'd subtract the cup distance from the puck to get the final amount you add though. But yes, the jaunce from what I recall will fully compress (it just slows the final movement). Don't buy into the accordions that MC sells (ask me how I know!).
Okay cool and I want the full bumpstop number because that tells me about my up travel which is important in understanding how my jeep is built currently?

Yeah, you want to stop the movement before it impacts anything. There's some discussion around whether or not the shocks being the final bump stop is okay or not. I lean toward it's fine if the movement is slowed.

You should be in good shape with the OEM setup for a while. Let me know if yours are torn up, I think I kept mine which were fine (had maybe 55k on them).
The movement being slowed at the end of the shock comes from something like the currie bumps and not something that will be very safe with the really soft stock ones? Thanks for the offer - I'll see how mine look soon. I have some more reading to do... Do you have to find really long bolts to fit pucks in?
 
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Okay cool and I want the full bumpstop number because that tells me about my up travel which is important in understanding how my jeep is built currently?
I wish my reason was so noble, my thought was the cup or replacements or other bump stops you later move to won't likely all be the same. However the axle spring perch and upper support will be reliable places to measure from as future references regardless of what bump stop mechanism you use.
The movement being slowed at the end of the shock comes from something like the currie bumps and not something that will be very safe with the really soft stock ones?
Anything that compresses should slow the axle travel speed. I don't know if it matters or how much it might matter - none of my shocks have exploded yet.
Do you have to find really long bolts to fit pucks in?

Probably! It depends on which side you add them to. My first bumps were just on the uppers (~2" lift) then the currie set which is partially upper and partially lower.
 
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I wish my reason was so noble, my thought was the cup or replacements or other bump stops you later move to won't likely all be the same. However the axle spring perch and upper support will be reliable places to measure from as future references regardless of what bump stop mechanism you use.

Anything that compresses should slow the axle travel speed. I don't know if it matters or how much it might matter - none of my shocks have exploded yet.


Probably! It depends on which side you add them to. My first bumps were just on the uppers (~2" lift) then the currie set which is partially upper and partially lower.
Ah yeah that makes sense, be nice to not have to repeat the work later. I'm at about the same lift so cool sounds pretty easy to just do the top
 
mine sure doesn't look like that, I have no idea why yours looks like that lol
I know the rear axle was rebuild at once point by someone, supplied by Jasper, so they probably fucked it up... No idea what idiot would run line like that it's gotta be harder to make a loop in it than making it straight??
 
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Anyways thanks to @thekidwithquestions help on collab it seems like I'm bumping into the curse of the 97 YTJ - I think I have a YJ pigtail on my tcase and not TJ, since mine doesn't match the one on the new speedo sensor. JB Conversions shows a wiring harness kit for it on the bottom of the install sheet but I can't find it on site, guess I'll have to wait til tomorrow to call them and see if they still sell it
 
Anyways thanks to @thekidwithquestions help on collab it seems like I'm bumping into the curse of the 97 YTJ - I think I have a YJ pigtail on my tcase and not TJ, since mine doesn't match the one on the new speedo sensor. JB Conversions shows a wiring harness kit for it on the bottom of the install sheet but I can't find it on site, guess I'll have to wait til tomorrow to call them and see if they still sell it
happy to help, sucks about the weird wiring
But who needs a speedometer anyway, its not like you can speed anyway lol