Help identifying front axle

DaveL

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Jun 9, 2020
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Location
Arizona
I purchased a1999 TJ with swapped axles. The rear I was told is a ford 8.8 from an 01 explorer. The front is a dana 44 from "a TJ Rubicon" however my research seems to indicate that TJ rubicons only came with dana 44s in the rear. the local O'reillys said they don't have anything in their system for a dana 44 front prior to some year way after the TJs. My real issue is this, my dirver side wheel bearing needs to be replaced but I don't know what part I need. O'reilly's said it can't be a dana 44. However the diff cover looks like the examples on line of dana 44s... ofcourse other axles could look similar.

Further, Google tells me that Dana 44 should be stamped on a support fin, but it isn't. Google also says the long side axle tube should have a number stamped in it that will tell me where it originally came from, but it doesn't (unless it is on top under the welded on truss). The only number I see is 54213. I found an old thread about a diff that looks a lot like mine, https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/can-you-id-this-front-axle.1447014/ and they say it is from a ruibcon but it isn't clear if it is a TJ rubicon or a later Rubicon? Given there is nothing stamped on my axle tubes, would that indicate it is from an aftermarket manufactHourer?

Does any of this even matter? Can I just ask for a bearing, and everything else I need for a later model rubicon with a dana 44? O'reilly's just wasn't any help.

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Like others posted

1. The 2003-2006 Runicons came when Dana 44 front and rear axles with disc front and rear brakes and air lockers 4.10 gears.

2. LJ’s came with a 44 rear, I have heard 44 front, but I don’t know that personally.

EITHER way, the Dana 30 and Dana 44 front TJ both use the same outside the pumpkin.

The Dana 30 calipers, same as TJ 44. The knuckle, all the same.
 
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Lots of correct info here.

I'll just say that it sure seems like whoever is working at your local O'reillys, any O'reillys or any box style parts store is either getting their information from FaceBook or supplying information to Facebook, either way it's not a good thing.
 
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The Jeep also has Currie/RockJock steering, maybe links from an Antirock, a front truss for some reason, and what might be a Rubicon Express track bar.
 
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O'reillys said
Thats your problem.its a Dana 44.

Is there an electrical connector hanging out of the drivers side of the diff or plug? If so it definitely came out of a rubicon there will also be a fitting for a small air line up high on that side or a plug.it looks visible in one of your pics
 
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Thank you all for the info! @jjvw, it does indeed have an antirock but I was unaware that the steering had been modified. How would I determine if it is a rubicon express track bar? I am attaching some additional pictures. For years I modified Mustangs. I just gotten into off road about 2 years ago. I am still learning about what I actually have.

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Thank you all for the info! @jjvw, it does indeed have an antirock but I was unaware that the steering had been modified. How would I determine if it is a rubicon express track bar? I am attaching some additional pictures. For years I modified Mustangs. I just gotten into off road about 2 years ago. I am still learning about what I actually have.

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Doesn't matter too much if it is Rubicon Express, Metalcloak or similar. It uses a sideways heim joint at the frame which will wear out quickly at the bearing surfaces with use. Some of these similar track bars have a long history of breaking along the tube.
 
Chances are you had the parts counter fella looking for a 99TJ with a Dana 44. Won’t find it there. As said above, when looking for parts for the axle look at a 03’-06’.
 
I never gave him the year of my jeep. I told him 03 to 06 rubicon and asked if all of those years use the same part number. The crazy thing is that he couldn't figure it out, so he got the "Jeep Guy" that works there. That guy insisted that it had to be some much later year. He had no selection for a rubicon during the TJ years.

I tried to explain the width difference, stud dimeter difference, etc. That is when he told me that that my axle can't be a dana 44 then. He ended up getting pissed and just walking away.

I have used that parts store for 30 years, but maybe I need to find a new one...
 
Thank you all for the info! @jjvw, it does indeed have an antirock but I was unaware that the steering had been modified. How would I determine if it is a rubicon express track bar? I am attaching some additional pictures. For years I modified Mustangs. I just gotten into off road about 2 years ago. I am still learning about what I actually have.


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Not knowing any better, someone installed a dropped Pitman onto your TJ which is commonly but usually erroneously done. Yours should not have one due to your steering not having been modified in such a way as to require one. Installing a dropped Pitman arm screws up the steering geometry which causes bump steer. Bump steer is when the steering is forced (bumped) left/right when driving over bumps/dips on the road.

I'd replace it with the original non-dropped Pitman arm and enjoy the new bump-steer free steering. And yes it definitely appears you have a Rubicon Express track bar installed.

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Thank you Jerry, followup question - Does the fact that I have a 6 in lift factor in in any way? I can't say that I have noticed any bumpsteer.

Also, is there any way to confirm that it is a 6 inch lift? I put on 37s which my jeep club members said should fit fine, but they rub a bit in the rear. I wonder if it isn't a 6 in suspension lift. The jeep also sits a bit crooked (lower on driver side as measured from the fender). I was thinking of putting on fresh springs. to see if that evens it out. The driver spring measures about 3/4 of an inch less when sitting on level ground. The root of the question is that I wonder if I am going to screw somethign else up if I buy 6 in springs and it is designed for a 5 in lift or maybe even less.
 
measure your front springs, I believe anything over 12" is your lift amount.
If 37's are rubbing you might only have a 4" lift and maybe a body lift?
That would explain why the dropped pitman arm is where it's at. .. Bumpsteer.
 
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I have about 15+ inches of spring (compressed by the weight of the vehicle). Should this measurement be done with the springs uncompressed?

The previous owner put on a long arm kit that I was told by someone else is a rough country kit. A quick google suggests that this only comes in 4-6 inch varities. So maybe I have the wrong springs installed. or maybe it is an old 4 inch lift and the springs have seen better days.... or the seller meant 6 overall with a body lift... Who knows, but the back tires are rubbing on the wheel wells - I would think that if it was 6 inches with body lift that I would still clear the 37s if 6 is enough to fit 37s.

The bushing between the frame and the tub is exactly 1 inch thick, so unless these things are flat from the factory, I don't have much of a body lift if any.

One other thing. Whoever installed the lift did it in a way that locates the rear wheels a bout an inch and a half forward of center of the wheel wells. This makes the front of the wheel wells very close to the rubber which is where I am rubbing in rough stuff... well that and at full turn I rub on the passanger side upper controll arm. The rear upper controll arms are adjusted as short as they can go, so perhaps this isn't a 6 inch lift. I assume there are one set of controll arms and you get different springs to go from 4 to 6 inches and you just adjust the arms out. This does suggest to me that I have the 4 inch variety.
 
Rough country is known for poor quality. My rough country springs were sagged several inches when i recycled them

Yes you measure lift height compressed. Stock is 12 and 8"