He definitely has a soft spot for it. Otherwise it wouldn't be in a garage with a classic bronco and a newer cobra mustang. His kids could care less about it though,so i want to put the bug in his ear that I'd love to have it.
Project Basketcase!
- Thread starter Rickyd
- Start date
He definitely has a soft spot for it. Otherwise it wouldn't be in a garage with a classic bronco and a newer cobra mustang. His kids could care less about it though,so i want to put the bug in his ear that I'd love to have it.
I finally finished a bumper project thats been waiting a while to happen.
Got this cheap 3/16" bumper for 100$ and shortened both ends by 5"
It bugged me how far the shackle points stuck out so i torched them off and rewelded them in from both sides of the bumper.
They aren't trimmed up equally yet in the pic. I added 4" shear stock to the back of the bumper as a winch mount and a couple ears so the swaybar would be level.also welded 1" angle stock to the underneath to combat the winch deck warping i had before.No pics of that
And because nothing gets to go smoothly i got to lay on my back with hot metal shavings burning me while i got this snapped bumper bolt out of the bottom of the frame. One of the last gifts from the previous owner. Including a metric bolt in the bumper that thankfully didn't mess up the nutsert enough to be unuseable.
Here's the old 1/8" bumper that kept warping when I'd make heavy pulls
And the new bumper that matches my smittybilt style rear bumper
Got this cheap 3/16" bumper for 100$ and shortened both ends by 5"
It bugged me how far the shackle points stuck out so i torched them off and rewelded them in from both sides of the bumper.
They aren't trimmed up equally yet in the pic. I added 4" shear stock to the back of the bumper as a winch mount and a couple ears so the swaybar would be level.also welded 1" angle stock to the underneath to combat the winch deck warping i had before.No pics of that
And because nothing gets to go smoothly i got to lay on my back with hot metal shavings burning me while i got this snapped bumper bolt out of the bottom of the frame. One of the last gifts from the previous owner. Including a metric bolt in the bumper that thankfully didn't mess up the nutsert enough to be unuseable.
Here's the old 1/8" bumper that kept warping when I'd make heavy pulls
And the new bumper that matches my smittybilt style rear bumper
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So instead of going to a party with live music and bbq celebrating us building another fire dept substation with room for 4 engines I'm stuck at home sick as a dog with dang covid.
But what the heck I'm bored too so i might as well install a really nice quality roll bar padding set i got from @mjtjnj. Should save some bumped noggins and makes the interior look finished in my opinion
Also got my knock off grab bars in. I had to trim the a pillar plastic to fit them as shown
Man the rust really pops in my cameras filters. I swear its a california jeep! Lol
But what the heck I'm bored too so i might as well install a really nice quality roll bar padding set i got from @mjtjnj. Should save some bumped noggins and makes the interior look finished in my opinion
Also got my knock off grab bars in. I had to trim the a pillar plastic to fit them as shown
Man the rust really pops in my cameras filters. I swear its a california jeep! Lol
While i had the seatbelts off to install the padding i went ahead and took the black covers off the side and gently removed the ball bearing and retainer to clean the mud out. Worked the mechanisms at different angles while tapping to get dirt and debris out. A little compressed air helped too.
The seat belt locking mechanisms had a hair trigger resulting in needing to pull multiple times to get enough length to latch them.and occasionally they would tighten on us while offroading or just going down the highway. Fixed for now!
The seat belt locking mechanisms had a hair trigger resulting in needing to pull multiple times to get enough length to latch them.and occasionally they would tighten on us while offroading or just going down the highway. Fixed for now!
I've been thinking about my oil pressure gauge accuracy for a while now. When warm my gauge will randomly drop to zero at idle and give a beep/warning light. Somewhat alarming on an expensive stroker motor!
It did this when i first built the motor and i verified the dash read 20 psi lower than the mechanical gauge at warm idle sometimes by hooking up a mechanical gauge.now that i have 30k miles on it i figured I'd test it again but use a tee at the block so both gauges could be read simultaneously.The threads are 1/8 bsp i believe.This is what i rigged up.
Snaked the tube through the firewall and set the gauge on the center console.
@Woodrow you might do this as well and see if you can replicate your low pressure conditions? It sure is nice to reaffirm the oil pressure on my motor is still as good as it was when new!
It did this when i first built the motor and i verified the dash read 20 psi lower than the mechanical gauge at warm idle sometimes by hooking up a mechanical gauge.now that i have 30k miles on it i figured I'd test it again but use a tee at the block so both gauges could be read simultaneously.The threads are 1/8 bsp i believe.This is what i rigged up.
Snaked the tube through the firewall and set the gauge on the center console.
@Woodrow you might do this as well and see if you can replicate your low pressure conditions? It sure is nice to reaffirm the oil pressure on my motor is still as good as it was when new!
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With the stroker, (except for that single time on a long, steep descent in Moab this year) my stock ‘97 gauge always says 40 psi at idle and 60ish when driving. My old 150K 4.0 did the 0 and warning light thing at warm idle intermittently with the same sender. A mechanical gauge never showed less than 12psi on that motor. I think the low pressure in Moab this year was likely real and due to a starvation issue at the steep angle. But I haven’t called Golen or pulled the pan to look at things so
.
It is always 20 psi at idle when it dropped to zero. When I'd lug it below idle it would be around 15 psi.
Highway pressures are 10-20 above my gauge reading of 40-50.
I guess i should dig into the voltage and resistance figures for the circuit so i can measure and understand what's going on with the inaccuracy?
If you're up that, I'd say its the next step. Yours is a '97 like mine, so the gauge is supposed to mean something, as opposed to being an analog idiot light as in some later model years.
So you are the one that broke the forum. You should be sad, very sad.
When that pop up for midget porn came up,i said what the heck lets click it and post it on wtjf! Nothing could go wrong right?
Anything after 8 PM yesterday is lost since I had to restore from a backup.
Ok,one more time!
I spent a couple hrs changing the lifters in my jeep friday evening thanks to my edelbrock head and some clearancing of the large pushrod holes in them before installation. The head,intake and exhaust all stayed put!
I used these expanding lifter installation tools. One of them cut down for the last lifter under the cowl overhang. Push down firmly and twist to tighten them
The only downside i found was the bosses for coil on plug get cut down enough to need a bolt in them to stop oil leaks. Easy tradeoff for me.
Guys considering an eddy head,especially with an aftermarket cam should do this mod. @SkylinesSuck and @Jezza ?
I spent a couple hrs changing the lifters in my jeep friday evening thanks to my edelbrock head and some clearancing of the large pushrod holes in them before installation. The head,intake and exhaust all stayed put!
I used these expanding lifter installation tools. One of them cut down for the last lifter under the cowl overhang. Push down firmly and twist to tighten them
The only downside i found was the bosses for coil on plug get cut down enough to need a bolt in them to stop oil leaks. Easy tradeoff for me.
Guys considering an eddy head,especially with an aftermarket cam should do this mod. @SkylinesSuck and @Jezza ?
The reason i swapped lifters is my new motor has had a tic when warmed up since it was new.i tried different length pushrods and a couple new lifters to some affect.30k miles later i decided to just replace them all and it didn't really quiet down the ticking 
I guess now I'll try the pushrod game again.
Possibly 5w-30 and 10w-40?
Maybe a high volume low pressure oil pump?
I had a conversation with @Woodrow about his aftermarket cam being noisier than stock too. If i remember right most guys with a larger cam in their 4.0l have more valvetrain noise.
Any advise or suggestions on this would be great guys! I'll be reaching back out to russ pottenger and the friend with a machine shop who assembled the bottom end for ideas too.
I guess now I'll try the pushrod game again.
Possibly 5w-30 and 10w-40?
Maybe a high volume low pressure oil pump?
I had a conversation with @Woodrow about his aftermarket cam being noisier than stock too. If i remember right most guys with a larger cam in their 4.0l have more valvetrain noise.
Any advise or suggestions on this would be great guys! I'll be reaching back out to russ pottenger and the friend with a machine shop who assembled the bottom end for ideas too.
The reason i swapped lifters is my new motor has had a tic when warmed up since it was new.i tried different length pushrods and a couple new lifters to some affect.30k miles later i decided to just replace them all and it didn't really quiet down the ticking
I guess now I'll try the pushrod game again.
Possibly 5w-30 and 10w-40?
Maybe a high volume low pressure oil pump?
I had a conversation with @Woodrow about his aftermarket cam being noisier than stock too. If i remember right most guys with a larger cam in their 4.0l have more valvetrain noise.
Any advise or suggestions on this would be great guys! I'll be reaching back out to russ pottenger and the friend with a machine shop who assembled the bottom end for ideas too.
I responded yesterday but I guess that was lost in the site issue last nite.
Here’s my cam card:
Its only a little less mild than yours.
My head is a 7120 and my block is a ‘92 which is pre-NVH. Whatever the reason, my valve train (or something) is definitely noisier than stock. I’ve done a couple of oil analyses with Blackstone. The first was a little concerning. Fuel dilution and multiple metal particulates were higher than spec. However, that all settled down 5 or 6K later.
With regard to yours, the Eddy head is aluminum, correct? I’m not sure if that effects things but it might transmit more sound? Is your block stock or pre-NVH?
Not tracking all the details of your setup but I have been running 10w30 diesel oil for the ZDDP increase after my OEM engine ate an OPDA and the replacement dealer-installed cam ate a lifter...
Haven't pulled the pan nor OPDA to inspect yet. Only 30k so far on the new long block. Plan to pull OPDA in near future.
So I can't say it's done anything.
Many here (and elsewhere) say there is enough ZDDP in regular motor oil for our engines (even though the amount in oil has dropped over the years)... but I've had so much internal wear, I struggle to believe it on this motor design...
I looked into zinc when I put my stroker in. I’ll cut and paste from a post in my build thread a couple of years back.
“Based on some reading, in the past, minimum ZDDP was standardized by the American Petroleum Institute (API) to around 1200 ppm. This was reduced to 800 ppm in 2004 because higher levels were hard on catalytic converters. The problem is lower levels of ZDDP lead to higher wear on cams with flat tappet lifters. It’s hard to find the exact ZDDP content for a given oil. I use Castrol GTX 10W40 in my TJ (because I always have-no better reason than that). I assume it has around 800 ppm ZDDP, but I may be wrong. If I’m right, my motor should probably have another 500 ppm or so to protect the cam. Lucas TB Zinc plus has 50,000 ppm. So, in 6 quarts (192 oz), 1.92 oz of Lucas TB plus (I rounded up to 2 oz) should add the desired 500 ppm of ZDDP. I realize there are a bunch of assumptions here, so if anyone has hard data to refute this plan, I’m all ears.”
I’m still using the zinc additive and the conventional oil which I change every 3000 miles.