4.8 Swap LJ

[Shank]

Adapter came in for transfer case. Test fit to make sure everything will work and I have enough fasteners to hold together to test fit it in LJ. Ordered most of the fasteners I need for when everything is done.

I also degreased the transfer case. I need to degrease my LJ case too and tear apart.

Weekend plan:
-Cut factory motor mounts and tack weld in Holley mounts
-Rebuild transfer case, Chevy front, LJ rear case
-Test fit engine/trans/transfer case/ LS3 manifolds

I have to get the 4L60E to builder next week as it is a 4 week lead time (unfortunately from when you drop the transmission off). I was pretty concerned with this but the reality is I have a ton of other work that there is almost no way it will all be done before the transmission is.

I’ve looked inside this 5.3 but never got as far as mic’ing bores or checking bearings. Hoping to just rering and reseal this engine. Determining this is an immediate next step after transmission is sent out.

 

[Shank]

I must have thought these Jeeps are larger than they are as this was more work than I expected. I suppose maybe bolting transmission in after you put engine in may be easier.

I plan to get the skid on and the position about where I want it before I tack weld the motor mounts in. They are in with the bolt only for now.

 

[lBasket]

View attachment 591156

I must have thought these Jeeps are larger than they are as this was more work than I expected. I suppose maybe bolting transmission in after you put engine in may be easier.

I plan to get the skid on and the position about where I want it before I tack weld the motor mounts in. They are in with the bolt only for now.

Nice, making moves! I am drooling at how much access you have with the fenders and grill removed

 

[Shank]

Nice, making moves! I am drooling at how much access you have with the fenders and grill removed

I am trying to work as much as I possibly can while still making time for the wife and baby. Fortunately we made an agreement on time before I started and it’s working quite well.

Pulling them is certainly the only way I see this possible.

 

[lBasket]

I am trying to work as much as I possibly can while still making time for the wife and baby. Fortunately we made an agreement on time before I started and it’s working quite well.

Pulling them is certainly the only way I see this possible.

Wow that's a good one, letting you still do an engine swap with a baby! That'll probably keep you efficient with your work.

Maybe possible without it but absolutely miserable!! My mid engine swap in a car that still had a trunk was awful for plumbing and wiring, can only reach in from 2 spots on the side

 

[Shank]

Wow that's a good one, letting you still do an engine swap with a baby! That'll probably keep you efficient with your work.

Maybe possible without it but absolutely miserable!! My mid engine swap in a car that still had a trunk was awful for plumbing and wiring, can only reach in from 2 spots on the side

That and the fear of a cross country trip in 5 months .

I actually know your pain… my first car was a Fiero that I had to rebuild the engine and transmission. I don’t miss those space issues!

 

[lBasket]

That and the fear of a cross country trip in 5 months .

I actually know your pain… my first car was a Fiero that I had to rebuild the engine and transmission. I don’t miss those space issues!

Oh right yeah that helps nothing more motivating than having no choice!

Yep it definitely sucks alot. But hopefully translates into a fun car to drive. One day I'll find out.

 

[Shank]

Transfer case rebuilt with SYE installed today. It’s mostly a Chevy setup with Jeep shift mode selector. I kept the wider chain, extra planetary, and synchronizer, hopefully none of that was a mistake. Oddly enough the Chevy case had the same spline front output as my Lj.

Front driveshaft damn near looks it would work (I never measured before I took apart…). Probably just replace anyway.

Week plan is to get driveshafts measured and ordered, pull everything, drop trans off for rebuild, start tearing into the engine.

 

[Shank]

I drank bourbon and did nothing tonight, which is a real part of a project like this. In balancing life with Jeep, I chose today as an off day as I was a bit annoyed at my dumbass mistakes yesterday (had to open tcase a couple times). It seems to function correctly so time will tell.

Back to it tomorrow. I have conned asked my dad to help pull the engine and trans tomorrow. I will measure for driveshafts. It seems with 1310 joints and fairly stock geometry I just need lengths and not angles for ordering shafts.

I did spend some time thinking about the 4L60. I am a bit worried about it’s longevity but on paper it makes a lot of sense (size, ratios). I will talk with my builder about it when I drop it off.

Engine and trans is an alleged running rotted out frame pull out. Typical for this area. I really need to mic bores and pop a couple bearing caps off and inspect. Very much hoping new rings and seals and run it. If not, I am not sure what my plan is.

Likely this week will be an ordering frenzy. I‘d like to order basically everything I can think of to keep the project moving.

 

[lBasket]

I drank bourbon and did nothing tonight, which is a real part of a project like this. In balancing life with Jeep, I chose today as an off day as I was a bit annoyed at my dumbass mistakes yesterday (had to open tcase a couple times). It seems to function correctly so time will tell.

Back to it tomorrow. I have conned asked my dad to help pull the engine and trans tomorrow. I will measure for driveshafts. It seems with 1310 joints and fairly stock geometry I just need lengths and not angles for ordering shafts.

I did spend some time thinking about the 4L60. I am a bit worried about it’s longevity but on paper it makes a lot of sense (size, ratios). I will talk with my builder about it when I drop it off.

Engine and trans is an alleged running rotted out frame pull out. Typical for this area. I really need to mic bores and pop a couple bearing caps off and inspect. Very much hoping new rings and seals and run it. If not, I am not sure what my plan is.

Likely this week will be an ordering frenzy. I‘d like to order basically everything I can think of to keep the project moving.

Hopefully the 4l60 can work for you. The 80 (if that's what else you're thinking?) is beefy but lord the first gear ratio is atrocious.

 

[Shank]

Hopefully the 4l60 can work for you. The 80 (if that's what else you're thinking?) is beefy but lord the first gear ratio is atrocious.

It absolutely should. Rebuilt correctly it should have no issues with how I drive/will use it. The concern is still there though. An 80 is the logical strength choice but you are absolutely correct on gearing.

 

[lBasket]

It absolutely should. Rebuilt correctly it should have no issues with how I drive/will use it. The concern is still there though. An 80 is the logical strength choice but you are absolutely correct on gearing.

There is that 4l65e in the Escalade - not sure exactly what it entails but can you build the 60 up to that for a little strength?

 

[Shank]

Any experts on driveline angle, mainly transfercase output both front and rear? I am measuring right around 8 degrees (obviously rear pointing down). I am just a little concerned with the front being pointed up at 8 degrees. I set the engine and trans per Holley’s instructions (height from trans output to skid).

 

[Rickyd]

Any experts on driveline angle, mainly transfercase output both front and rear? I am measuring right around 8 degrees (obviously rear pointing down). I am just a little concerned with the front being pointed up at 8 degrees. I set the engine and trans per Holley’s instructions (height from trans output to skid).

The DC joint on the front shaft takes care of the angle. I don't think I'd want the rear output pointed below the rear pinion,but I doubt it would be that low

You can get a shallower pan (5quart?) If you need the clearance. I used a "hotrod" pan on my k20 to clear the front axle

 

[Shank]

The DC joint on the front shaft takes care of the angle. I don't think I'd want the rear output pointed below the rear pinion,but I doubt it would be that low

You can get a shallower pan (5quart?) If you need the clearance. I used a "hotrod" pan on my k20 to clear the front axle

I figured it may be okay. I think i could likely raise the transmission some and lessen the angle. Stupid me already measured for driveshafts and pulled everything, so I either live with it or wait a month until transmission is done and re-mock up.

 

[Shank]

Made this before I realized I shouldn’t mess with front pinion angle due to caster concerns, basically top sketch for front, middle for rear is what id be at if I leave 8degree angle. I could probably get 2 degrees less out of it by adding 1” to trans mount and have something closer to option 2 And not adjust front angle).

 

[Shank]

View attachment 592404

Made this before I realized I shouldn’t mess with front pinion angle due to caster concerns, basically top sketch for front, middle for rear is what id be at if I leave 8degree angle. I could probably get 2 degrees less out of it by adding 1” to trans mount and have something closer to option 2 And not adjust front angle).

Any opinions on this? Thinking of just ordering the rear for now as 1/8” difference won’t matter at all and then ordering front later.

 

[Wildman]

I'd wait until you've got things setting where they are going to be permeant and then order the shafts. Tom Woods has a fast turn around.

 

[Shank]

I'd wait until you've got things setting where they are going to be permeant and then order the shafts. Tom Woods has a fast turn around.

I was set permanent then got concerned on front driveshaft angle. If 14deg is okay I am good to go.

 

[Wildman]

I was set permanent then got concerned on front driveshaft angle. If 14deg is okay I am good to go.

14 degrees seems like a lot but I'll have to measure mine which won't be for a day or two.