Except for their ability to send decals with the orders.
Maybe Jerry still has some
Tummy tuck before lift
- Thread starter JNURubi
- Start date
Maybe Jerry still has some
Their website states up to 1" clearance gains depending on the year Jeep.
I'd say seems reasonable. I still had my dad's old rusted late style skid outside and it is indeed 1" difference from the frame to the lowest point of my no-lift skid.
I think the transmission sits about 1/2" - 3/4" higher than stock with Barnes no-lift skid. A bit trickier to measure, but it does get pushed up a little. A full tummy tuck is going to bring the whole transmission/T-case up 2"-3" and even with the MML it will rotate the output of the transfer case a bit higher angle than stock. At stock height and without adjustable control arms to get the pinion and the output shaft parallel, this is where the tummy tuck can cause issues with the stock TJR driveshaft. Having some drop spacers on hand will give a workaround with the stock driveshaft until the OP is ready to order their lift kit and ultimately their final driveshaft.
**edited for clarity - my point for the OP was that you can use the T-case spacers temporarily so that you don't have to order 2 driveshafts and you will gain alot of breakover clearance and a smooth underside less likely to hang up regardless of which t-case skid you go with.
I ran into the same issue with my no-lift skid and 2.5" lift. The numbers all said it should be fine with my setup without a DC rear driveshaft but it pushed the T-case output angle up just a couple degrees, enough to cause an issue. I was ready to be done with the work and enjoy getting the Jeep out for the summer so decided to use the spacers I had on hand "just in case".
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Except for their ability to send decals with the orders.
You poking ther bear here, ha!
Not sure if it’s better or not, because I’m uninterested in picking some type of argument. But you asked if there are better options, and in my "OPINION" there is:
I’m a pretty big fan of the Savvy skid upgrade and put the engine skid on as well.
Couple pics, I have 4” Currie springs and Savvy CAs, I had to put a 1.25" BL and MML both from Savvy as well, although I should have gotten the MORE Bomb Proof MM's and 1" lift. Actually, now that I think about it, the grill snubber for the body lift, Blaine sent ones from his BL kit that were better, ha. I'd get the Black Magic BL if I was doing it now, but I bought mine and had it sitting for a year or two before install.
I got a TW DC driveshaft, but mine doesn’t have Rubicon TC, just Rubicon axles.
I thought Texas had red mud too. Are you an @Irun inspired Jeep cleaner? If so, I'm jealous. Looks great!
I thought Texas had red mud too. Are you an @Irun inspired Jeep cleaner? If so, I'm jealous. Looks great!
HA, that was right after install, and I put in Rubicon axles, It was all open, so I flap wheeled anywhere there was rust on the surface (Texas Jeep TJ) so not a lot, and hit it all with Krylon Semi Flat.
I grew up in Houston, which is 100% the Bayou City, rode dirt bikes and then Jeeps in DEEP mud. Loved it, now...booo, mud and red East Texas dirt sucks. I'm in Central Texas, and avoid it ha.
I'm getting a CJ5 up and going again, driveline issues galore, but here's the Transmission and TC, and yes, caked in East Texas red freaking clay/dirt/oil/grease mix. It's even under seal covers and caked in like a motha!
I'd rather drive in the rocks in the hill country and just wash off the dust....scraping caked on crap is getting old, ha.
I second that - great looking Jeep. I dig that style boatside too.
I was aware added vibration through the chassis was probable when I bought them. It was way more than I expected at idle and I ended up smoothing it out by bumping the idle up to 800rpm in HPTuners. I do not have any weird vibrations at higher rpms and the motor feels totally locked in with their mounts while still having an appropriate degree of flex.
I installed the non-MML MORE Bombproof mounts - rubber bushing style ones - and have some reservations about them. I bought the OMIX set first and I'm pretty sure they were cast from vulcanized dogshit. So naturally I went for the other end of the spectrum and got the MORE with the rubber mount bushing. And the MORE Bombproof are as advertised extremely well made and stout.
I was aware added vibration through the chassis was probable when I bought them. It was way more than I expected at idle and I ended up smoothing it out by bumping the idle up to 800rpm in HPTuners. I do not have any weird vibrations at higher rpms and the motor feels totally locked in with their mounts while still having an appropriate degree of flex.
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DirtDawg
TJ Enthusiast
I installed MORE 1" lift motor mounts on my former 2000 TJ (ordered new), which despite their claimed "Bombproof" name did fail (RH passenger side). Although several years in service with lots of miles on those, MORE did honor my requested replacement with a new set. No complaints other than the perceived robustness, which in my experience wasn't so much...
You all have been very helpful. Thank you for the other recommendations on plates. I was originally thinking no body lift, but 1” MML, 1” BL with the tummy tuck seems like the consensus, I decided on the lift, now just need to decide on the skid. I’ll wait till I get everything and do it all at the same time since I will just have the jeep in the garage all winter anyway.
Just starting to look into this stuff and a little confused… Why wouldn’t someone want to use a lopro mount? Wouldn’t this help avoid vibes by keeping the drivetrain in better alignment?
The LoPro mount is known to be accompanied by more vibes at idle rpm’s because there is less vibration damping through that transmission mount.
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