thanks for documenting this! I have been putting off doing mine because exactly this, what to do with all the stuff that's attached to the inner fender
It just happened!
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thanks for documenting this! I have been putting off doing mine because exactly this, what to do with all the stuff that's attached to the inner fender
So far, this has been about what I expected. The driver side has been on and off 5 times, to get it to fit nicely. The biggest issue was the outer stock fender bracket that holds the ABS tray. I had to use an adjustable wrench to bend back the outer lip, then do a considerable amount of trimming on the bottom/back of the Genright large inner fender panel.
In my case, I needed to loosen the two inner bolts that hold the ABS tray, where my ARB compressor is mounted, and remove the two outer bolts. Once that was done I pulled the outer part of the tray to the back, then drilled two new holes to bolt it to the outer fender bracket.
Also, to make the installation easier, I put the large inner fender in first, with only the front bracket that attaches, with two stock bolts, to the grill. Then, I put the top on the inner fender in, with only a few bolts, to do the fitting.
Up next is:
- pull the fender once more to install a steering riser and inspect/grease the pillow block. Now's the time to do that, since getting access in the future will be difficult with the inner fender in place.
- Mount the horn, washer bottle, computer, cruise control, and wiring to the top of the inner fender.
- install, marked up, and trim the aluminum slider mount
Lastly, the supplied instructions are basically useless!
In my case, I needed to loosen the two inner bolts that hold the ABS tray, where my ARB compressor is mounted, and remove the two outer bolts. Once that was done I pulled the outer part of the tray to the back, then drilled two new holes to bolt it to the outer fender bracket.
Also, to make the installation easier, I put the large inner fender in first, with only the front bracket that attaches, with two stock bolts, to the grill. Then, I put the top on the inner fender in, with only a few bolts, to do the fitting.
Up next is:
- pull the fender once more to install a steering riser and inspect/grease the pillow block. Now's the time to do that, since getting access in the future will be difficult with the inner fender in place.
- Mount the horn, washer bottle, computer, cruise control, and wiring to the top of the inner fender.
- install, marked up, and trim the aluminum slider mount
Lastly, the supplied instructions are basically useless!
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To keep it in perspective Rich, just imagine how much fun their high-lines would be…
Nice work. Keep at it, it will come together.
Nice work. Keep at it, it will come together.
Good point! This job is easy, just time consuming. The high-lines are definitely another level of work. Like most folks I just want to get to the next thing on my to-do list. However, there's doing it, and there's doing it right. Of course, while I'm telling my wife about the time it takes to get this job done, she has to go and be practical by asking "You're doing this for fun, correct?"
Random question here. I'm looking to put a mini split in my garage and the first estimate came back at $9,500. This is a high-efficiency, 28 SEER 1.5 ton Carrier unit, but that price seems high to me. They are going to have to run about 50' of copper to put the head unit where I want it, which shouldn't increase the cost that much. I'm getting other estimates, but wanted to see if anyone here had thoughts on this topic?
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Driver side fender removed, hopefully, one last time. Made a few grinding adjustments to give a little room at the factory hard brake lines. Also, installed the steering riser and checked the pillow bearing. Surprisingly, mine was in great shape and only required a little grease. Lastly, did some paint work to stay ahead of any rust. My plan is to get the driver side buttoned up tomorrow.
View attachment 678110
View attachment 678110
I just had a mini split installed on my garage. 2 firms bid it between 9 and 11k for 2T unit including the 220. I put in the 220 with an electrician and keep looking and found someone via a reference that put in a 2T Trane unit (23 Seer) for $6200. My install was very simple with the 2 units on the same wall, but hopefully this information helps a bit.
I have the bracket and it's on my short list. I'm curious to see how my bearing looks. I'm 50/50 to repair it or go new along with a hydro — but when I did my alignment I was told the steering is close to binding (probably have been for a long time) so good call you made the move to the upgraded bracket.
PickleLJ
Member
I never even thought about a steering shaft riser. After swapping to the older style gearbox, combined with the 1.5" BL and MML, I'm betting thats why I'm having a hard time getting clearance by the firewall. Who makes the riser?
I never even thought about a steering shaft riser. After swapping to the older style gearbox, combined with the 1.5" BL and MML, I'm betting thats why I'm having a hard time getting clearance by the firewall. Who makes the riser?
This one is Hooke, which is made in China. The MORE version used to be made in USA, but now it also appears to be made in China. At least there's no indication it's made in USA.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SJQVNN9?tag=wranglerorg-20
Close only counts in horseshoes and hand grenades.
Had planned to make more progress, but it is a hobby! Driver side fender is done, with the exception of windshield washer reservoir, which I've got a potential fit for arriving tomorrow. I'm very happy with the overall fit and look, including the mounting of the cruise control, computer, wiring harness, and horns. I'll get some larger wire loom and tidy that up more later.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/building-homer-2005-tj-build-thread.69559/page-9#post-1433257
Fenders are looking great! Not sure if you have an older or newer version than mine (I don't have the inner fender vent) - but here's how I approached the washer fluid tank. (link to my thread)
I drilled the tank to add the second pump for the hardtop.
I offer the above for an option/ideas. I'd encourage you to look over the above thread before the specific post above for how I solved install of the existing equipment on the GR fender inners.
I didn't go with the OEM air box - so take that for what it is. From my experience, if you go windstar - measure twice, cut once. I still need to fix my firewall which is drilled too high right now... @jjvw has good pics/measurements in his posts.
But I loved the extra space on the pass fender by departing from the OEM airbox. I filled it with relays - FWIW
I had these illusions that retirement would be semi-leisurely and it's turning out to be anything but that. It seems like I can't get any dedicated time in the garage, so it comes in small waves. Today I had a little time, with a goal to button up the driver side fender. I borrowed some ideas from @FarFire70 to tackle the washer bottle, and @AndyG for the light wiring.
For the washer bottle, this was used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVFV883?tag=wranglerorg-20
To make it work, the supplied pump was removed, the hole carefully enlarged slightly with a step drill bit, then the stock pump was installed. In my case, I've got a second pump for the hard top, so a hole was drilled on the opposite side and both the original grommet and pump were installed. For a bracket, I had a small piece of 2" wide and 1/8" thick aluminum, which was cut and bent. After several adjustments, the fit was perfect.
Lastly, all the wiring was done and the lights went in. I'm not happy with the harness and will fix that. Also, the front 3/4" round light only works as a blinker and I'd like a running light in the front, so that will get addressed when the wiring is cleaned up. Overall, I'm very happy with the fender install, including all the accessory mounting.
Next, I've got to tackle cutting and fitting the driver side slider.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/building-homer-2005-tj-build-thread.69559/page-9#post-1433257
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/need-help-wiring-genright-led-turn-signals.80557/post-1598787
For the washer bottle, this was used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVFV883?tag=wranglerorg-20
To make it work, the supplied pump was removed, the hole carefully enlarged slightly with a step drill bit, then the stock pump was installed. In my case, I've got a second pump for the hard top, so a hole was drilled on the opposite side and both the original grommet and pump were installed. For a bracket, I had a small piece of 2" wide and 1/8" thick aluminum, which was cut and bent. After several adjustments, the fit was perfect.
Lastly, all the wiring was done and the lights went in. I'm not happy with the harness and will fix that. Also, the front 3/4" round light only works as a blinker and I'd like a running light in the front, so that will get addressed when the wiring is cleaned up. Overall, I'm very happy with the fender install, including all the accessory mounting.
Next, I've got to tackle cutting and fitting the driver side slider.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/building-homer-2005-tj-build-thread.69559/page-9#post-1433257
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/need-help-wiring-genright-led-turn-signals.80557/post-1598787
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Nice clean install. I went with the same washer bottle for my GR hilines but was able to slide it between the fender well and radiator with the limited space I had. Great cheap replacement and haven’t had any issues with it.
Congrats on your retirement.
I enjoyed not having a boss or customers and the sooner that becomes permanent, the better.
I also know I'll have no problem keeping myself busy.
Many years ago I took about 6 months off after two back to back bad jobs to decide what I'd do next. I worked on a bunch of deferred home projects. I called that time "practice retirement"
I enjoyed not having a boss or customers and the sooner that becomes permanent, the better.
I also know I'll have no problem keeping myself busy.
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