Setting up links for variable height suspension

While that piece does in fact do what you state, it was designed more as a fluff piece to quell the shouting I see for trusses and why you are deficient if you don't run one. So, I made one that works as a stiffener for the long side tube that also reinforces the bridge (unnecessarily). The bridge is and can be stand-alone as designed without the stiffener since it picks up the cut off cast mount for the upper control arm bushing. It is also flanged down in the back and front where it can be and the missing flange over the diff is well compensated for by the mechanical connection to the cut off mount. The bridge also welds fully across the top of the spring mount.

I would agree; that amount of connection - especially the cut-off cast mount - makes the long-side tube truss kind of fluffy.
 
A lot of those ford Dana 44's Wildman is using have 1/2" thick tubes, truss wont do much with those as much as the one of the JK 44's with 1/4" tubes.
 
I would agree; that amount of connection - especially the cut-off cast mount - makes the long-side tube truss kind of fluffy.
To be clear, the welding to the cast part is purely mechanical and not a welded bond. The weld can crack like welds to cast are prone to do but in order for any dislocation to occur, the material across the top has to pull either/or both sides up and stretch the angled pieces away from the perch or tube. The weld would also have to shear in perfect planes that allow the bridge to move up or down in that area and welds don't really do that.

The rest of it is the upper mount stiffens the platform and really increases the leverage against deflection in favor of the platform since in order for one end to rise, the fulcrum is all the way across the top of the platform at the other side. In other words, it would be near impossible for it to move without catastrophic damage to the axle like you would see in a crash at which point nothing would be salvageable anyway.

The other way to think about that is the strongest you would make a simple non truss mount is 45 angled pieces with flanges on them that go from each outer side of the mount down to the tube with no verticals and the platform just the width of the mount. Weld the center of that platform to a projection up off the casting and now you have it braced in all directions so it can't move.
 
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To be clear, the welding to the cast part is purely mechanical and not a welded bond. The weld can crack like welds to cast are prone to do but in order for any dislocation to occur, the material across the top has to pull either/or both sides up and stretch the angled pieces away from the perch or tube. The weld would also have to shear in perfect planes that allow the bridge to move up or down in that area and welds don't really do that.

The rest of it is the upper mount stiffens the platform and really increases the leverage against deflection in favor of the platform since in order for one end to rise, the fulcrum is all the way across the top of the platform at the other side. In other words, it would be near impossible for it to move without catastrophic damage to the axle like you would see in a crash at which point nothing would be salvageable anyway.

The other way to think about that is the strongest you would make a simple non truss mount is 45 angled pieces with flanges on them that go from each outer side of the mount down to the tube with no verticals and the platform just the width of the mount. Weld the center of that platform to a projection up off the casting and now you have it braced in all directions so it can't move.

Since my Dana 44 didn't have that cast in upper link mount is the bridge that is on it now okay for the 3 link? Once I find the tie-in piece that bolts to the front diff cover? Am I understanding this correctly?
 
Since my Dana 44 didn't have that cast in upper link mount is the bridge that is on it now okay for the 3 link? Once I find the tie-in piece that bolts to the front diff cover? Am I understanding this correctly?

No... without the cast-in upper link mount, that truss will eat your axle housing like a leftover Zagnut, and then it'll tell you bad things about yourself and laugh at you while you're crying.
 
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I honestly don't know what mine came out of. I bought it off Ebay and it was a bare axle with no mounts on it. I want to say it was from a F150 but I don't know that for sure. And I don't think I ever measured the axle tube when I was narrowing it.

No... without the cast-in upper link mount, that truss will eat your axle housing like a leftover Zagnut, and then it'll tell you bad things about yourself and laugh at you while you're crying.

o_O:rolleyes:
 
I honestly don't know what mine came out of. I bought it off Ebay and it was a bare axle with no mounts on it. I want to say it was from a F150 but I don't know that for sure. And I don't think I ever measured the axle tube when I was narrowing it.

Regarding the link mount: read Blaine's last few responses to my drivel. Then read them again. Then read them a third time. Then, if you're like me, think about them for the next six or eight hours straight, preferably while losing sleep.
 
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I'm sure my mind will be warped and I'll be confused as always. I understand 10-15% of some of the stuff he says and then I go back and reread it and I'm still trying to wrap my head around all of it.
 
I'm sure my mind will be warped and I'll be confused as always. I understand 10-15% of some of the stuff he says and then I go back and reread it and I'm still trying to wrap my head around all of it.

Well, you just explained the entire problem right there, in the first sentence. You need to get that idea out of your head and learn how to learn. If you get lost, STOP - like, hard stop, before you hit a goddamned iceberg and end up floating around a moron, wondering what the fuck is going on - and think about what you don't know, and then ask relevant questions. Remembered: it'ss the irrelevant questions that cause a great wailing and gnashing of teeth throughout the land.
 
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I'll be the first to admit I am great at asking the irrelevant questions. I pick things up differently sometimes than others. And other times the fog clears and I get it the first time.

I'll have to go look at my front axle because I'm not sure how the bridge from RE is made. I'd hate to have to cut it off but if I had to so be it. But right now I am down for a few days. I woke up thins morning with a sore on the side of my stump and had to go see my prothesis. I'm not suppose to wear my socket for a few days until the sore heals so it doesn't get worse. Which SUCKS since I was looking forward to being able to get some work done on my Jeep.
 
Since my Dana 44 didn't have that cast in upper link mount is the bridge that is on it now okay for the 3 link? Once I find the tie-in piece that bolts to the front diff cover? Am I understanding this correctly?
Assuming a few things, it should be. The assumptions are there are flanges down on the back side where the yoke is. The tie in brace is not compromised, the cover isn't jacked up, the proper bolts are used, the upper mount spans a good distance front to rear on the platform, the welds to the tube are sound, and you achieve a tolerable 3 link separation that mimics a parallel 4 link.

Start bouncing it on something that you should pull the winch on with big tires and you'll find the weak link in a hurry and with a single arm, all the load is on it so it has to be right.
 
Blaine,
Larry welded it on if that means anything.

The rest I'll have to get back to you on. And I need to find that tie-in piece and get it mounted.
 
Blaine,
Larry welded it on if that means anything.

The rest I'll have to get back to you on. And I need to find that tie-in piece and get it mounted.
It wouldn't mean anything if I welded it. If it is a sound weld, something else will fail. If it isn't, the weld will fail so who welded it means very little.

Let me put it this way. I was in Remote Pit 1 during KOH a few years back. Shannon came in, crew was checking the rear links that may have had some sort of an issue. Shannon asked, they reassured him they were good to go. He then asked them again, would you bet your life on them? So while Larry and I may be capable of a decent weld now and then, I don't know that I would bet your life on them.
 
It wouldn't mean anything if I welded it. If it is a sound weld, something else will fail. If it isn't, the weld will fail so who welded it means very little.

Let me put it this way. I was in Remote Pit 1 during KOH a few years back. Shannon came in, crew was checking the rear links that may have had some sort of an issue. Shannon asked, they reassured him they were good to go. He then asked them again, would you bet your life on them? So while Larry and I may be capable of a decent weld now and then, I don't know that I would bet your life on them.
Did he win the bet?
 
Of course and came back to win in both the SxS class and Unlimited class with his son. Or they both placed 1st and 2nd in those two classes a couple years ago.
Of course and came back to win in both the SxS class and Unlimited class with his son. Or they both placed 1st and 2nd in those two classes a couple years ago.
Of course and came back to win in both the SxS class and Unlimited class with his son. Or they both placed 1st and 2nd in those two classes a couple years ago.
So the welds were good...and a win makes it even better.