What did you do to your TJ today?

I like that look especially with that kicked out ledge..... but now you need to paint your fenders as they stick out like a porcupine in a nudist colony.;)
Ha ha - I completely agree and knew someone would say this. I’ve been strategizing on how to go about painting them. Taking them off would be the best but just judging by the extenders, that’s going to be a battle. So now I think I’ll just mask and paint them in place. Would have been easier before installing but oh well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kiwi TJ
Ha ha - I completely agree and knew someone would say this. I’ve been strategizing on how to go about painting them. Taking them off would be the best but just judging by the extenders, that’s going to be a battle. So now I think I’ll just mask and paint them in place. Would have been easier before installing but oh well.
Yeah just mask them off and paint...taking mine off a few years ago was a pain.
 
  • Like
Reactions: fourpointzero
Yeah just mask them off and paint...taking mine off a few years ago was a pain.

+1. So much easier to clean them super good with some dawn dish soap, scrub with a green scotchbrite. Then wipe them down, tape them off and Krylon Fusion for Plastic. Made a world of difference on my Son's 21 year old XJ fender flares.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RussTJ and Kiwi TJ
I finally got my soft top installed. Las t week, I figured out how the frame gets mounted, and tonight the actual top. It was pretty painless. The only parts I'm missing is the stiffener panels in the rear corners.
 
I finally got around to swapping in some Tiburon seats. They are much more comfortable than the stock seats and a heck of a lot cheaper than aftermarket. View attachment 97638
Any more pics of the bracketry you made and the final install? Do the seats still flip properly to allow access in to the back? Any problems with airbag lights? Do they sit any higher/lower than the stockers? I think they look awesome!
 
I rebuilt the np231 transfer case today, and it went pretty well.

Here it is as removed:
MjzZh4Ql.jpg


First thing I did was pressure wash it. And then I used a slightly-too-small hex head socket in the drain plug and stripped it out. It's the same exact thing I did to the fill plug a few months ago, so I took the same tact and ground the threads off of a big-ass bolt so that it fit into the stripped out hole and welded it in. Now I have a matching 19mm headed fill and drain plugs, and I'll never need to buy the right sized hex head.

I popped off the yoke. I don't remember using this much silicone when I installed the slip yoke eliminator. I tried using a little less during this rebuild.
CSUWmkEl.jpg


I pulled off the tail housing after fighting against the silicone for a long time. I just wasn't hitting it hard enough with the rubber hammer to separate the tail from the main housing. Once it broke loose I popped out the seal and bearing and was happy to feel a little bit of grindy-ness when spinning it in my hand. Hopefully replacing this bearing gets rid of the squealing that I've been hearing. I ordered it directly from Teraflex because I assumed it would be a different bearing than the original tail housing. It's a #6207 bearing. I bought two from Teraflex, along with two seals, just in case it's a special kind of bearing and I can't source it down in Baja. Well now I know that you get a 6207 bearing in the standard np231 rebuild kit, so I have two spares.
DwdVahGl.jpg


Again it looks like I used too much silicone when sealing the case and it clogged up the filter quite a bit.
D6hyYS5l.jpg


Here's my weird looking finger showing you where the oil passage needs to line up. The mounting stud with the nut on it came out when I was separating the transfer case from the transmission. I put some red locktite on it and tightened it back into the transfer case with some vise grips.
fQGAWCYl.jpg


The chain and everything looked in pretty good shape. It didn't seem like it was stretched out but I replaced it all anyway.
5NlwgERl.jpg


I replaced the plastic pads on the top shift fork. The lower fork doesn't seem to have pads that are replaceable.
NFwz4HQl.jpg


I've got a nice pile of parts going. I kind of like knowing that I get to do all of that degreasing, just slowly and methodically. But I also get weird stress when my only vehicle is in pieces so I kind of have a love-hate relationship with all of those little tasks that just eat up time but need to be done to feel like you did the job right.
A3qxgDbl.jpg


This job was the first time I've seen this kind of snap ring - it just has a little groove for a screwdriver to pop it out of it's nook, and then you get to try to grab it with some other little implement to pry it the whole way out.
ebwuH27l.jpg


I pulled out the planetary gear to get to the final bearings. The snap ring that keeps in the planetaries is comically large and I wish I'd taken a photo of it.
jJRg7w7l.jpg


This bearing was the hardest part - I don't have any bearing pullers and I'm not sure what kind you'd need, so I just went about chiseling it down and out. It wasn't pretty and I scored the bearing surface a little bit, but not enough to hurt it I pray.
mmQ24YUl.jpg


Old and slightly busted, new and complete:
9BV4DiVl.jpg


Here it is all rebuilt with the new "extended" drain/fill plugs. I debated painting the whole thing but I think I'd rather be able to drive somewhere tomorrow. I put a coat of paint on the cross-member, taking it from orange back to satin black, and I also painted the transmission mount because it was pretty crusty.
h0tIg15l.jpg


The rebuild kit came with a bunch of spare parts - or at least I hope so :D
hbuww7il.jpg
 
Installed a JKS adjustable track bar this weekend. I think the jeep already had an aftermarket track bar, but I'm pretty much just replacing everything and it looked pretty gaffed up anyway.

97768


IMG_20190601_201018.jpg


Drilling out the frame mounting hole to 9/16. Had to drop the tie rod in order to give myself room to drill. Noticed my ball joints don't look so hot, ordering Teraflex HD ball joints.

IMG_20190601_203706.jpg


Snapped the axle mounting bolt completely in half while torquing it to spec. Not sure what happened, but I'm thinking it was just a trash aftermarket bolt. Went to 5 different stores to find a bolt that matched, but I couldn't find a grade-8 and the one I got is just as sketchy as the one that snapped so I ordered an original factory bolt and flag nut just to remove all doubt. Still waiting on those to come in the mail, but the mystery bolt should hold in the meantime.

97770


IMG_20190603_191714.jpg


If you count the amount of trips to Lowes, Home Depot, Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, and Oreillys I had to go on, it took me about 8 times longer than it should have to install this.
 
Any more pics of the bracketry you made and the final install? Do the seats still flip properly to allow access in to the back? Any problems with airbag lights? Do they sit any higher/lower than the stockers? I think they look awesome!
I didn't take any pictures of the brackets but they are truly as simple as 4 straight pieces of metal. The seat frame sits at a bit of an angle so you just have to account for that when drilling. I did have to trim the rail on the passengers side slightly to clear the seat belt mechanism.
Here is another thread where the OP took some good photos of the brackets.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-install-hyundai-tiburon-seats-in-a-jeep-wrangler-tj.2997/
I was able to use the original seat belts so no airbag lights.

As far as the height is concerned I think they sit just about the same as stock. I had ordered a set of 1.25" risers but after installing them I felt it was a little high for me.

The fold and tumble still works to an extent. I have never used my back seat so wasn't that concerned about it. Now to fold them forward I just reach under and rotate the release. The new seats slide forward a lot further than stock so it's easy to reach. The bar stock I used prevents the mechanism from fulling tilting forward. It could be made to work fully by just adding some slots in the bar stock. I chose not to bother. The drivers side already folds foward enough that the dash and steering wheel prevent the seat from tilting any more. The passengers side on full tilt would put the seat so far forward that the headrest can hit the windshield. I didn't want to have the risk of breaking my windshield with the seat. During my research I found at least one person who had it happen. With as far as they slide forward I have more than enough room to reach behind them. For passengers the new brackets might be in the way a bit. The Tiburon seat rails are much wider than the stock so they stick out a bit more.
20190604_111144.jpg
20190604_081924.jpg
20190604_110548.jpg
20190604_081528.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: tworley
That’s awesome! I wish I had trails near by. We only have Uwharrie National Forest and it’s hours away. Nothing cool in ENC (or much of anywhere in NC that I’m aware of).

Hello fellow NC'r. If you ever want to ride at Uwharie let me know. It's a great place to go and you can camp there instead of doing the trip in one day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 04 LJ
I didn't take any pictures of the brackets but they are truly as simple as 4 straight pieces of metal. The seat frame sits at a bit of an angle so you just have to account for that when drilling. I did have to trim the rail on the passengers side slightly to clear the seat belt mechanism.
Here is another thread where the OP took some good photos of the brackets.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-install-hyundai-tiburon-seats-in-a-jeep-wrangler-tj.2997/
I was able to use the original seat belts so no airbag lights.

As far as the height is concerned I think they sit just about the same as stock. I had ordered a set of 1.25" risers but after installing them I felt it was a little high for me.

The fold and tumble still works to an extent. I have never used my back seat so wasn't that concerned about it. Now to fold them forward I just reach under and rotate the release. The new seats slide forward a lot further than stock so it's easy to reach. The bar stock I used prevents the mechanism from fulling tilting forward. It could be made to work fully by just adding some slots in the bar stock. I chose not to bother. The drivers side already folds foward enough that the dash and steering wheel prevent the seat from tilting any more. The passengers side on full tilt would put the seat so far forward that the headrest can hit the windshield. I didn't want to have the risk of breaking my windshield with the seat. During my research I found at least one person who had it happen. With as far as they slide forward I have more than enough room to reach behind them. For passengers the new brackets might be in the way a bit. The Tiburon seat rails are much wider than the stock so they stick out a bit more.
View attachment 97773View attachment 97774View attachment 97775View attachment 97776

How does swapping the seats out play with the airbag sensor that plugs in under the seat?
 
got my new Rancho shocks it a few days ago, and finally got a day
when it could put it in without getting soaked.

I got 3 of the 4 shocks installed. when I went to install the 4th shock,
I found that the pressure wasn't right.
So back to Northridge 4x4 ... we will see how long it takes to get the replacement here...
Finally .... received the replacement shock, 3 weeks later.... got it installed and now I have all matching shocks!