Longer control arms for more articulation

[Eddie Greenlee]

it would be right if your control arm length is what was limiting you, but if you have stock shock mounts, it's not.

My control arms were limiting my downtravel in front, but it wasn't their length, it was that they're cheap RC arms with huge bodies that were contacting the lower shock mount. I clearanced it and they'll go way farther than my 11" travel shocks will allow.

how did you find out the shock mounts were hitting the control arms ?

 

[jjvw]

how did you find out the shock mounts were hitting the control arms ?

Cycle your axles without springs.

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

Rancho assumes factory mounts. If you notice, longer travel shocks have a longer compressed length. That compressed length need to fit somewhere. At some point, the compressed length interferes with up travel while creating an unbalanced amount of down.

Moving the mounts allows that additional compressed length to fit somewhere without compromising the up travel, while keeping both the up and down travel balanced.

so am i looking at moving both front and rear shock mounts ? outboarding rear ? and what to the front

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

Cycle your axles without springs.

i have asked this before but., I have to have tall enough jack stands to get my frame off the ground so the tires dont touch the ground when the axle is at full droop right? also is everything else connected except the springs when i droop the axles ?

 

[starkey480]

so am i looking at moving both front and rear shock mounts ? outboarding rear ? and what to the front

Personally I would start with outboarding the rear. For the front check your up and down travel and move the upper mount to give you the desired up and down travel. A good place to start is 50/50 split. Assuming you have the rancho 11” shocks in the front I would bet you would benefit from moving the mount up an inch or so

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

one thing i didnt metion what that im running a curry anitrock . does that limit me also?

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

Personally I would start with outboarding the rear. For the front check your up and down travel and move the upper mount to give you the desired up and down travel. A good place to start is 50/50 split. Assuming you have the rancho 11” shocks in the front I would bet you would benefit from moving the mount up an inch or so

let me see if if can find the exact shocks i have so i can see how much travel they have.

 

[Fughuert]

i have asked this before but., I have to have tall enough jack stands to get my frame off the ground so the tires dont touch the ground when the axle is at full droop right? also is everything else connected except the springs when i droop the axles ?

If you don’t have talk jack stands you can take the tires off and it works the same except you’re no longer checking for tire interference. Which you should eventually do at full droop/stuff at both extremes of steering angle.

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

Here are my shocks

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

front shocks RS 55255
rear shocks RS 55256
These are RS 5000X shocks

 

[Jerry Bransford]

one thing i didnt metion what that im running a curry anitrock . does that limit me also?

No! So am I, so are most of the well built rigs.

 

[jjvw]

so am i looking at moving both front and rear shock mounts ? outboarding rear ? and what to the front

Both the uppers and lowers on both ends get relocated to allow the fitment of longer shocks than would ordinarily fit in the factory mounts.

 

[jjvw]

i have asked this before but., I have to have tall enough jack stands to get my frame off the ground so the tires dont touch the ground when the axle is at full droop right? also is everything else connected except the springs when i droop the axles ?

6 ton jack stands work well. The tires can come off. At some point, a tire needs to be installed to check full suspension stuff and full steering lock.

To allow full axle movement, disconnect at least one side of the sway bar.

It is valuable to know the full available axle movement without shocks and bump stops.

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

Both the uppers and lowers on both ends get relocated to allow the fitment of longer shocks than would ordinarily fit in the factory mounts.

So is this information on FB ? or forums or utube ....

 

[jjvw]

Personally I would start with outboarding the rear. For the front check your up and down travel and move the upper mount to give you the desired up and down travel. A good place to start is 50/50 split. Assuming you have the rancho 11” shocks in the front I would bet you would benefit from moving the mount up an inch or so

I would argue that the primary benefit to all this work (it's a lot of work) is to get tuned shocks in there. The 5000x's are great for the price, but there is absolutely no comparison to a tuned Fox. The added travel is a very nice side benefit.

 

[jjvw]

one thing i didnt metion what that im running a curry anitrock . does that limit me also?

I know first hand that the Currie Antirock in the middle setting does not limit an 11" shock. On the new RockJock AR, this appears to be the stiffest setting.

 

[jjvw]

front shocks RS 55255
rear shocks RS 55256
These are RS 5000X shocks

Fronts are 10.73" travel
Rears are 9.66" travel

After relocation, typical shock travels are 11" front and 12" rear, with those travels divided in half up/down.

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

Fronts are 10.73" travel
Rears are 9.66" travel

so are they really to short for a 4" lift kit? because Rancho says they are for a 3.5" lift

 

[jjvw]

So is this information on FB ? or forums or utube ....

Here, JF, Pirate, StuOffroad

 

[Eddie Greenlee]

Here, JF, Pirate, StuOffroad

thanks