Right. A wrench isn't needed to adjust the arm length. As far as tightening the jam nuts, with a a JJ roll the entire arm over to bind against the mounts on both ends. Then tighten.
New control arms (Savvy versus Metalcloak)
- Thread starter WNC05willys
- Start date
Right. A wrench isn't needed to adjust the arm length. As far as tightening the jam nuts, with a a JJ roll the entire arm over to bind against the mounts on both ends. Then tighten.
I've got a better place you two can put that sharpie...... 
How will they see what they write where the sun doesn't shine? 
ok, more fodder.
so the inner was /is 1.86-1.88 at rest/in hand. pinched in my vice with just 1 fingers pressure it can get down to 1.60 pretty easy. crushed with some force, not the hand of god, some force, got to 1.45
so 1.88 to 1.45, split that because the pressure rest's on only 1/2 (kinda like a wheel) and that is like .215.
even more fodder.
if you run the joints at both ends you'd then split load again between 2. this could be reason they insist not to mix joints and only run MC with MC or this'd go back to single point loading not split. duel MC's should then be what .12 at either end.
does this shit even make sense?
so the inner was /is 1.86-1.88 at rest/in hand. pinched in my vice with just 1 fingers pressure it can get down to 1.60 pretty easy. crushed with some force, not the hand of god, some force, got to 1.45
so 1.88 to 1.45, split that because the pressure rest's on only 1/2 (kinda like a wheel) and that is like .215.
even more fodder.
if you run the joints at both ends you'd then split load again between 2. this could be reason they insist not to mix joints and only run MC with MC or this'd go back to single point loading not split. duel MC's should then be what .12 at either end.
does this shit even make sense?
Adjust the length by hand. If you are unable to adjust by hand, then the arm is in a bind and that bind must be relieved and the other arms need to catch up until all can be adjusted by hand again.
How will they see what they write where the sun doesn't shine?
They need to install one of those GM underhood retractable lights.
i don't give a rats ass what joints yall run. it's no intended contest, just what i'm finding funky about these joints.
if you run these joints grease them often. or any other for that matter.
you got a 1/4" of rubber on each side of that ball.
the rubber weld is only to the shaft of the ball not the ball itself (cheesy). so it's just a dry socket away from tearing any one of them.
if you run these joints grease them often. or any other for that matter.
you got a 1/4" of rubber on each side of that ball.
the rubber weld is only to the shaft of the ball not the ball itself (cheesy). so it's just a dry socket away from tearing any one of them.
This had me looking at MC for arms. I asked some questions, made a choice and got Savvy DA. Asked more questions before installing and it was way easier to set them up that I thought. Since its double adjustable the jamb nuts both rotate the same direction to tighten or loosen. Put a crow foot on a breaker bar and run one down, switch to the other and back to the first one just to be safe. If you have your joints lined up when you start, they are lined up when you finish. Easy peasy.
You only need one wrench to adjust a Savvy arm.
Turning the bushing into a peanut with pliers isn't going to tell us much. It needs to be seated in the barrel. A better test might be to have the arms installed, then simulate a load, maybe with the park brake on and in 4lo. Compare that deflection with a set of OEM arms w/Clevites. I think we can all assume a JJ isn't going to deflect much if any. Those bushing halfs are hard as fuck, and under preload.
Potential flex and shit moving around under load was the main thing I worried about with MC. Maybe not a big deal, but was a factor in my decision.
am i wrong in thinking
rubber compresses it does not displace. being inside the casing would offer control of the eggs shape going long, not the amount of load compression that is possible.
a levite boast's what 6* of movement, i'd expect that is a much stiffer durometer.
either way @bobthetj03, hope you figure out whats vibin ya. i'd doubt it'd be your joints causing that.
just tried to offer what i see as a potential weak point. KEEP UM GREEEEZY.
rubber compresses it does not displace. being inside the casing would offer control of the eggs shape going long, not the amount of load compression that is possible.
a levite boast's what 6* of movement, i'd expect that is a much stiffer durometer.
either way @bobthetj03, hope you figure out whats vibin ya. i'd doubt it'd be your joints causing that.
just tried to offer what i see as a potential weak point. KEEP UM GREEEEZY.
That looks to me like a failure of the bonding between the rubber, and the ball portion of the metal. I don't see why they would make them without fully bonding the rubber to the metal. Selective bonding would be more complicated to manufacture without an added benefit. That it failed on the spherical part isn't surprising, the flatter the surface, the better the bond.
Not for nothing, but Savvy removed the wrench flats from the control arms due to a few folks using them to make adjustments with insufficient anti-seize on the threads and high loads like cranking one side longer a fair bit and then moving to the other side. That galled the threads, locked the joint in place and ruined the arm and joint. If you are adjusting them and can't turn them by hand, find out why before you ruin something.
i honestly can't see any attempt to bond it to the ball, unless this 1 is a F-up and was not made correctly.
it looks like they just dipped the bushing ends in liquid tape kinda. if anything it'd be a failed attempt to seal the center bushing from crap slippin by more than a bonding agent. it's left me more confused than b4 seeing it.
I know you know this or I'll be highly surprised if you don't but consider a Craytex wheel. It is essentially a molded rubber wheel or shaped disc that has abrasive embedded in it. It doesn't take long to wear steel with you get an abrasive and movement involved.
So does a small Sharpie mark.Very true, but the hexagonal arms make for a nice clocking reference as your turning both arms by hand.
Which is precisely what I do after I set the length on the arms. Make the mark at the same spot on both lowers, crank them out at the same time, watch the marks to keep the same number of turns, wash it off with some brake cleaner when I'm done.
That's because the 6th flat is the one that is different.
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