It just means you were correct and I was being a dick.I needed to look up that word.... and yes....
Seeking input on going to 35s
- Thread starter PAT04TJ
- Start date
Quick question that hopefully doesn't derail too much. What is your opinion on putting a lot of money into an LP30 to run 35's? How many mid arms have you done on LP30's? I have a good amount of cash sitting in my LP30 and I'm trying to decide whether to put more in or swap the axle out. Mostly looking at putting a midarm in.
I prefer a logic based "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" approach. If you build the LP 30 and find it isn't enough axle, you have some lost labor, and need a truss, stiffener, and gear set to move to the HP.
To answer the direct question, none. I haven't done any on the LP but I would not advise against it.
Why 35's?
Why not 33's?
Where are you going where the difference between 33's and 35's is the difference between getting where you want to go or not? Getting stuck or not? Needing a winch or not? Getting off the trail or not? Having fun or not? You get the drift.
As you can see from the growing laundry list of modifications necessary to run 35's the right way, it gets real expensive real fast.
Ask yourself if you can do what you want to do with this particular jeep on 33's. If you can, you might be able to save yourself five grand, have just as much fun, and never be in a position of being forced to cut corners to stay in budget.
I'm not discouraging 35's, just offering a different perspective.
Trust me, from having had 35s on my Rubicon with 5.38 gears and the 42RLE transmission, it STILL doesn't feel deep enough. So 5.13 will work, but it still won't be perfect IMHO. Unfortunately, short of going to a Dana 60 (which would be a massive project), you're stuck with 5.13.
The good news however is that as long as you get in the habit of turning off the overdrive every time you start up the vehicle, you'll be just fine. Leave the overdrive on, and that's when you'll be driven mad.
The other side of that perspective is going from a properly built rig on 33's to 35's is a body lift and the cost difference between 33's and 35's. Emphasis on properly built.
I'm just suggesting that OP have clarity on why he is going in a particular direction with his modifications.
I wouldn't build a jeep the same way for rocky trails in the SoCal desert as I would a jeep that sees all of its offroad miles on a Florida or Texas beach or a jeep that has to break trail in deep, wet Pacific Northwest snow.
I wouldn't build a jeep the same way for rocky trails in the SoCal desert as I would a jeep that sees all of its offroad miles on a Florida or Texas beach or a jeep that has to break trail in deep, wet Pacific Northwest snow.
My original post wasn’t titled info on 35”s. Idk why it changed. I was actually more interested if a properly built rig on 31.5” or 33” was as capable on a trail as just a lift and 35”s. I definitely get stuck already, most still learning which lines to take and driver error. On occasion I’ll get my frame hung up and an extra 4” would be nice. But doesn’t a 4” lift create the same difference as an extra 4” from my tire?
The difference between 31.5" and 35" tires would be 2.25" above and 2.25" below the tire.
A build for 32's will be considerably different than a build for 33-35's like Blaine said earlier the difference between a 33-35" build is a 1.25" body lift.
If you want to build for 32's get a 2" lift, a MML, BL, a ZJ or currie steering system, some sliders, and be prepared to buy an SYE, adjustable control arms, and DC driveshaft if you get vibs.
Personally, I think the best thing you can do is to figure out exactly what size tire you want to end up at and build for it. Whether it's 32s or 35s it doesn't really matter but, having a solid plan and not rebuying a ton of parts if you change your mind is defiantly the way to go.
A build for 32's will be considerably different than a build for 33-35's like Blaine said earlier the difference between a 33-35" build is a 1.25" body lift.
If you want to build for 32's get a 2" lift, a MML, BL, a ZJ or currie steering system, some sliders, and be prepared to buy an SYE, adjustable control arms, and DC driveshaft if you get vibs.
Personally, I think the best thing you can do is to figure out exactly what size tire you want to end up at and build for it. Whether it's 32s or 35s it doesn't really matter but, having a solid plan and not rebuying a ton of parts if you change your mind is defiantly the way to go.
Having gone from 33s to 35s, I can say that the slightly larger tire really does make a difference. But if you aren't catching the diffs and underside on 33s, the larger tire won't really matter.
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Pat, your front axle is plenty strong enough with 35s and aftermarket shafts. However, the dana 35 is not. You might want to look into axle replacements, such as the ford 8.8 or dana 44. You can pick an 8.8 from the junkyard, weld on new brackets and it should be a bolt on. However, with 4 inches of lift you will need a new cv driveshaft and an SYE. i learned the hard way and while prepping the axle for my jeep and driving around on 35s, my u joint slipped out and cracked the belle housing for my transmission. I had to get a new one for over 1200$.
You're honest and direct. Coming from farther north than NY, it's much appreciated and seldom seen in my current Va residence.
NEVER! Thank God you don't don't change in these times of whining idiots and everything being cancelled or changed because of people giving actual honest opinions.
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So true. Having had Ford trucks many years ago, I'm not a fan. Maybe I'd take a new 2021 Bronco if I win one on a game show. I'd then sell it for another TJ.
I've been pondering the 33 or 35 question myself for my build, the more I've read the more I've noticed to build for 33's your within 5-6 hundred dollars of building for 35's. I might be missing something but where are you finding a 5G savings only building to 33's?
Listen to Mrblaine. If you properly set up a build for 33s, then 35s is a BL away.
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