JMT’s 91' XJ Build

[JMT]

That's a LOT of XJ for not a lot of money! XJ prices seem to be all over the map but many agree that the good ones are definitely going up in prices. The best deals seem to be for ones that have been in the family for years, have been used as a second or third vehicle and have been well maintained. To the people I bought mine from it was just a "car".

This one was in a dealer's family. They lived in UT in the 80's and 90's. They owned it since it's birth. The dealer drove it till the last 3 years when their daughter drove it. Then she passed away and it went to their son and it just sat at his house unless he needed to pull a trailer. He gave it to me. It's rough around the edges; paint is rough because of sitting in TX sun, seals are toast, bushings are toast, suspension is toast. It's in dire need of a refresh. I'm thinking about re-painting it panel by panel. The cowl and hood and roof are the worst.

Do you know a good source for Torq Specs? I find some partial listings out there, but if you know where a FSM is for a 1991 or sheet that has all the Torq Specs for a 1991, that would be helpful. If not, I can get by, no use going out there doing my research for me.

 

[PCO6]

This one was in a dealer's family. They lived in UT in the 80's and 90's. They owned it since it's birth. The dealer drove it till the last 3 years when their daughter drove it. Then she passed away and it went to their son and it just sat at his house unless he needed to pull a trailer. He gave it to me. It's rough around the edges; paint is rough because of sitting in TX sun, seals are toast, bushings are toast, suspension is toast. It's in dire need of a refresh. I'm thinking about re-painting it panel by panel. The cowl and hood and roof are the worst.

Do you know a good source for Torq Specs? I find some partial listings out there, but if you know where a FSM is for a 1991 or sheet that has all the Torq Specs for a 1991, that would be helpful. If not, I can get by, no use going out there doing my research for me.

That's amazing. You would think that a dealer would know what it would be worth and would have an attachment to it after all of those years. You got a deal! I'm currently painting my LJ panel by panel which is a bit easier compared to doing an XJ because many of them come off. It's a lot of work that can be both satisfying and frustrating at the same time. Like many things though, if I did it in the first place it will be easy, or at least easier, to do it again if I have to.

Torque specs can be a bit frustrating too. I don't recall that the FSM's have ONE CHART that you can go to for everything. I think the specs are scattered throughout the manuals in the sections that relate to what you're working on (engines, front suspension, etc. for example). The FSM's deal with all Jeep models within a specific year so this might be the reason. The Haynes manuals have a chart but it's not comprehensive.

There are often questions about torque specs on the Jeep Cherokee and NAXJA forums and I think this is why. I often refer to Cruiser54's "Tales From the Book". It's mostly for the RENIX era XJ's & MJ's but it has some other good stuff too ... and he knows his stuff!

http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365

 

[JMT]

That's amazing. You would think that a dealer would know what it would be worth and would have an attachment to it after all of those years. You got a deal! I'm currently painting my LJ panel by panel which is a bit easier compared to doing an XJ because many of them come off. It's a lot of work that can be both satisfying and frustrating at the same time. Like many things though, if I did it in the first place it will be easy, or at least easier, to do it again if I have to.

Torque specs can be a bit frustrating too. I don't recall that the FSM's have ONE CHART that you can go to for everything. I think the specs are scattered throughout the manuals in the sections that relate to what you're working on (engines, front suspension, etc. for example). The FSM's deal with all Jeep models within a specific year so this might be the reason. The Haynes manuals have a chart but it's not comprehensive.

There are often questions about torque specs on the Jeep Cherokee and NAXJA forums and I think this is why. I often refer to Cruiser54's "Tales From the Book". It's mostly for the RENIX era XJ's & MJ's but it has some other good stuff too ... and he knows his stuff!

http://cruiser54.com/?page_id=365

Thanks a lot for that and the link. I'm sure hoping we will all see how the LJ turns out after your paint job! You have a lot of patience in your builds.

 

[JMT]

Parts starting to arrive. Rear shocks are Rancho 5000X 55245

 

[JMT]

More parts rolling in. Yesterday the window seals. There are 4 deals per door. They’re a PITA to install, but I almost finished the passenger side yesterday. Still have some rust repair to complete on the bottom of that door due to water leaking in.

 

[JMT]

Nothing but the best for the rusty bolts underneath. Kano Kroil

 

[JMT]

Front shocks. You guessed, Rancho 5000X 55239 for the 3” lift.

 

[JMT]

Last, but not least today, some 4” rear bumpstops. Having to piece everything together.

 

[JMT]

Went out after a long days work for a little fun. Oops, wrong build thread!

 

[bobthetj03]

Yeah, that doesn't look like a school bus!

 

[All 4 Wheelin']

Went out after a long days work for a little fun. Oops, wrong build thread!

View attachment 193093

Ah, the rock pile.

 

[JMT]

Ah, the rock pile.

What else is there? Hill climbs...

 

[Squatch]

What else is there? Hill climbs...

Well, sometimes ya just wanna bump the curb...

 

[MountaineerTom]

Nothing but the best for the rusty bolts underneath. Kano Kroil

View attachment 193090

Thats stuff is great. The best I’ve ever used in an aerosol can.

 

[All 4 Wheelin']

What else is there? Hill climbs...

That's about it.

 

[JMT]

That's about it.

I sent an email to the guy who is heading up the renovation of the Liberty Lake ORV, which is ATV’s and motorcycles only. He said they were considering some off-roading for 4x4’s. I’m crossing my fingers, but I doubt anything will happen for us.

 

[All 4 Wheelin']

I sent an email to the guy who is heading up the renovation of the Liberty Lake ORV, which is ATV’s and motorcycles only. He said they were considering some off-roading for 4x4’s. I’m crossing my fingers, but I doubt anything will happen for us.

It's a pretty small park which is why it was designated atv's and motorcycles only. I doubt that will change. We used to continue up that road past the LLP and it crosses into Idaho. There was some good wheeling up there but I'm not sure you can go there anymore. That was pre 9/11. Those domes on top of Mica Peak are military and they probably shut the whole thing down.

 

[JMT]

It's a pretty small park which is why it was designated atv's and motorcycles only. I doubt that will change. We used to continue up that road past the LLP and it crosses into Idaho. There was some good wheeling up there but I'm not sure you can go there anymore. That was pre 9/11. Those domes on top of Mica Peak are military and they probably shut the whole thing down.

It totally sucks that so much is shut down over here. Pine Hurst, ID is the closest place to wheel (Denver Creek, RollerCoaster/Et. al), but if I can't get someone to go with me I don't want to get out there by myself and get in trouble. And the trouble is, I can never find anyone.

 

[All 4 Wheelin']

It totally sucks that so much is shut down over here. Pine Hurst, ID is the closest place to wheel (Denver Creek, RollerCoaster/Et. al), but if I can't get someone to go with me I don't want to get out there by myself and get in trouble. And the trouble is, I can never find anyone.

I'd go with ya. Problem is my tj isn't up to the Pine Hurst area quite yet. With my gearing I'll break shit.

 

[JMT]

I'd go with ya. Problem is my tj isn't up to the Pine Hurst area quite yet. With my gearing I'll break shit.

IDK, you have 3" SL and running 33x12.5's. Your gearing is what? 307 or 373? Denver Creek has a bypass on the one difficult spot. Roller Coaster has bypasses for pretty much everything since it's wide and only one side is dug out into these ditches that make it go up and down like a rollercoaster (except much slower). I wheeled for a long time on 373's without issue. And if you blow your gears, good excuse to regear, but I don't think it will make your gears stronger.

Your weak spot now, if I had your Jeep, I would say is the front Dana 30 axle shafts. Re-gearing would be nice for a lower crawl ratio. I think I'm at 58:1 and I'm seeing some guys on here now with over 100:1. That's got to be very slow and give you a lot of control. I can't imagine, because mine seems really slow.