Okay, looking at the one pic closely, appears to be the case. There’s no need for either. If his TJ is driving like crap, I would simplify and not use all the extra that is not needed.
Need to change my lift
- Thread starter Forty
- Start date
Unless someone corrects me, for a 4” lift you do not need a drop Pitman and Drop Track bar mount on the front . Adjustable track with the stock location and a stock Pitman is all you need.
I have a 4” lift and replaced the drop Pitman that came with the Jeep, and went to stock. There wasn’t a bracket, but either way neither are necessary.
Well damn, I literally just removed the stock Pitman arm a month ago but had to cut that sucker off
. Do you think I’ll be OK by just removing the drop-down mount for the track bar on the frame and getting a factory Pitman? Also I dropped my tire psi down to 25 and it’s a little less bumpy but still all over the road.
Is the drop pitman the one that came with the lift? If it is just run it and do not worry about taking it and the track bar off. Spend the time just getting things dialed in and drop that tire pressure and things will be better.Well damn, I literally just removed the stock Pitman arm a month ago but had to cut that sucker off
I swear that’s what everyone says and it does seems like it but I ordered and installed the lift.
Yes it came with the lift. I did drop the tire pressure to 25, the ride was definitely not as bumpy but it’s still all over the place
Thank you! Do you know anything about camber and castor? I took it into Belle tire for an alignment and they said that my front axle needs to come out about 3 to 4° from where it is due to the lift.
Ideally you want to be close to 6 degrees positive caster. Camber is preset in the axle and cannot be adjusted. Toe should be set in 1/8 inch.
Built for comfort or Build for Wheeling!
I am in a minority here by staying stock as possible because I confess my off road use is limited to now & again and my stock TJ seems to fit my bill.
After only a few months on this forum I have realized that so many that lift and big it up with wheels and tires enter into compounding problems that don't seem to be so obvious when jumping into those mods. if your not making it for wheeling then keep it stock because the Jeep engineers "Knew best" well sort of lol! Just Make it Rubi specs and enjoy both worlds
I am in a minority here by staying stock as possible because I confess my off road use is limited to now & again and my stock TJ seems to fit my bill.
After only a few months on this forum I have realized that so many that lift and big it up with wheels and tires enter into compounding problems that don't seem to be so obvious when jumping into those mods. if your not making it for wheeling then keep it stock because the Jeep engineers "Knew best" well sort of lol! Just Make it Rubi specs and enjoy both worlds
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I just did some of this on my 2005 and learned it all on this forum.
Camber you cannot readily do anything about.
Caster you can, and it makes a huge difference. Think about a shopping cart. The caster is opposite a car, and the front wheels at speed rattle back and forth. Low or negative caster and you start to feel that, and the wheels go back and forth even slightly, it feels all over the road.
You need adjustable control arms. Then get a level on too of the ball joint and adjust your caster to a 6+ ish and test drive. There is no one exact number, and the main reason I have the level/angle finder on there is to know where I am, and try and get both sides of the axle the same. What the number is don’t get wrapped around the axle, but 3-4 for me and mine would drive all over the road.
A big tell take sign that Caster needs to be fixed, does your wheel return to center when you turn. My TJ I’d turn and that MFer would keep going in a freaking circle until I foxed it.
I know personally, if you follow all the steps and get it all tight, you can have a TJ with lift that drives like stock.
Advice I learned on here from Blaine gave to someone else on here, “throw the degree finder away and get it where it works”.
It’s not an exact degree, evert one can be different, but yeah 6 is a start, then see how it is, and adjust it to work with Caster and no vibes from too much angle in front drive shaft. Dial it in to work for your Jeep. Mine says 6.9....only reason I remember I guess is I’m still a juvenile in the head, and laughed that it was 69.
I’m done playing with it at this point. Taking it in tomorrow morning and letting someone else take over. I’ve been messing with this Jeep for years and it’s never right, never good, always some bs, get one check engine light off and another one comes on, or one suspension issue handled and another one is right there waiting and I’m over it. Just like with the 4 inch lift, everyone says oh all you have to do is this or oh all you have to do is that yada yada yada. It never ends. I even tried calling savvy today, Because I have their under armor, to Ask about dropping the t case a little to help with the rear driveshaft angle and the guy started getting pissy with me before I even finished asking my question. Like yeah I get it you guys have done thousands of these... I’ve done one And it’s been a problem since day one. I bought this POS to have fun with my kids and all it’s been is a headache and zero fun. Sorry rant over
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