Should I repair or replace the front track bar mount?

[06lj]

The PO of my Jeep had a Fabtech lift installed with a dropped track bar mount. This required drilling the track bar bolt hole out to 3/4" and drilling a 5/8" hole in the side of the mount. I had a spacer welded in to reduce the mounting hole to 5/8 but their is still a big hole in the side. On a recent inspection it appears that a crack may have appeared. I saw that Barnes sells a weld on replacement. Considering where the crack is I was wondering if it would be easier to replace the mount vs trying to repair it?

 

[AndyG]

Maybe @mrblaine can chime in or @toximus or @Dave Kispaugh.
One of them will know the best route.

All the best
Andy

 

[toximus]

What track bar and steering do you have? You very likely don't want anything to do with the Barnes bracket.

 

[06lj]

What track bar and steering do you have? You very likely don't want anything to do with the Barnes bracket.

The steering is stock and the track bar is a Metalcloak.

 

[toximus]

The steering is stock and the track bar is a Metalcloak.

@mrblaine will know if you can clean up that crack and weld it or not.

Btw - you need a longer bolt through the frame side track bar mount. Buy one 1/4"-1/2" longer. And figure out why that washer is crushed like that. If you replace that mount with somebody's take off, consider not installing that MC track bar and replacing the track bar with one from Currie. It's a much better design.

 

[Lou]

Washer too big.

 

[06lj]

@mrblaine will know if you can clean up that crack and weld it or not.

Btw - you need a longer bolt through the frame side track bar mount. Buy one 1/4"-1/2" longer. And figure out why that washer is crushed like that. If you replace that mount with somebody's take off, consider not installing that MC track bar and replacing the track bar with one from Currie. It's a much better design.

I was hesitant to say it was a Metalcloak track bar. It's on the list for replacement when I go from my 2.5" lift to a 4".

 

[someguysjeep]

@jjvw, just welded his back up, with a similar crack, IIRC.

nuts as big around as the washer, loose it and you'll get more threads in it, but like toximus says it needs to stick out at least 2 threads.

it's been mentioned the side cocked heim like to collect crap and can lead to it not having a long lifespan......they do make a heim boot that might help.

 

[mrblaine]

The PO of my Jeep had a Fabtech lift installed with a dropped track bar mount. This required drilling the track bar bolt hole out to 3/4" and drilling a 5/8" hole in the side of the mount. I had a spacer welded in to reduce the mounting hole to 5/8 but their is still a big hole in the side. On a recent inspection it appears that a crack may have appeared. I saw that Barnes sells a weld on replacement. Considering where the crack is I was wondering if it would be easier to replace the mount vs trying to repair it?View attachment 216486View attachment 216488

It is a steel forging, welds exactly like steel because it is. V it out from the outside to the inside. You want to weld the outside face and grind it flat. I just repaired one that was cracked and ripped out of the frame. As soon as we get some daylight, I'll get a pic of how to plate it so it won't crack again.

The nut and washer arrangement are incorrect. There is a counterbore on top that has to have a special size washer/spacer dropped into it to keep the bolt tight.

 

[jjvw]

Mine cracked on both sides this year. Both cracks were cut out, filled with weld, and plated.

 

[pcoplin]

I agree, grind it out deep, weld it, plate it. I would also fab up a brace (small diameter tube) that goes from the back of that bracket to the passenger side frame rail.

 

[mrblaine]

I agree, grind it out deep, weld it, plate it. I would also fab up a brace (small diameter tube) that goes from the back of that bracket to the passenger side frame rail.

If one pays a bit of attention, the side plate that reinforces the cracked area can also grow a little tab off of it for the brace.

 

[jjvw]

I agree, grind it out deep, weld it, plate it. I would also fab up a brace (small diameter tube) that goes from the back of that bracket to the passenger side frame rail.

That is on my list of things to do this winter.

Blaine suggested a left and right hand threaded pair of these to make a double adjustable link.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Clevis-1-2-20-RH-Thread-5-16-Inch-Slot-Zinc-Plated,1530.html

 

[Goatman]

Try and get a deeeep V when you grind it and as narrow as possible. This will help the weld go deeper into the crack.

 

[dbbd1]

I would have the extra hole filled as well.

 

[06lj]

Thank you everyone for the advice. I will start looking for a competent fab shop as my welding skills are not up to this task.

 

[Mrhp]

I would also preheat and postheat after welding. The large mass of the bracket can cool the weld too quick and weaken the repair. A good welder should be able to repair this fairly easily.

 

[mrblaine]

I would also preheat and postheat after welding. The large mass of the bracket can cool the weld too quick and weaken the repair. A good welder should be able to repair this fairly easily.

Not required at all.

 

[mrblaine]

That is on my list of things to do this winter.

Blaine suggested a left and right hand threaded pair of these to make a double adjustable link.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Steel-Clevis-1-2-20-RH-Thread-5-16-Inch-Slot-Zinc-Plated,1530.html

 

[Mrhp]

We all have our ways of doing things mrblaine.