1997 "beater bomb"

Sounds like the story of this past month for me. Everything bad is happening all at once.
 
Agreed.

My buddy who welded my artec bung to the 2" got it way to hot and ruined it. Had to order a new weld in bung.
If by ruined you mean the threads were a bit distorted, then all that means is he got it hot enough to get some good penetration. I've welded in hundreds of bungs into tube and not once have I been able to thread the shanks in without running a tap through them first. They will just seize up and ruin the joint and the bung.
 
If by ruined you mean the threads were a bit distorted, then all that means is he got it hot enough to get some good penetration. I've welded in hundreds of bungs into tube and not once have I been able to thread the shanks in without running a tap through them first. They will just seize up and ruin the joint and the bung.
It was the left handed threads, therefore he didn't have a tap. He aid that he usually puts anti seize on the threads and runs the joint in. It made it 1 1/2" and seized up.

First time he had this issue so he says. Guess he just want thinking.
 
If he had a tap that fit I'm sure it wouldn't of been a issue. I've only done a hand full of weld in bungs.
 
If he had a tap that fit I'm sure it wouldn't of been a issue. I've only done a hand full of weld in bungs.
There is lots of debate over the Band-Aid methods to do weld in bungs and the ONLY way that works every single time is to chase the threads after welding. If you don't, you are risking a stuck joint shank, a ruined arm in cases, and at best only a ruined weld bung.

I have right and left hand taps for 1 1/4" all the way down to 1/2" including all the most common SAE thread sizes and 2 metric versions.

To me, it is simply not worth the hassle and delay of the project to risk it. This is what it would have cost to fix it.

http://kittstools.securesites.net/store/product2904.html
 
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There is lots of debate over the Band-Aid methods to do weld in bungs and the ONLY way that works every single time is to chase the threads after welding. If you don't, you are risking a stuck joint shank, a ruined arm in cases, and at best only a ruined weld bung.

I have right and left hand taps for 1 1/4" all the way down to 1/2" including all the most common SAE thread sizes and 2 metric versions.

To me, it is simply not worth the hassle and delay of the project to risk it. This is what it would have cost to fix it.

http://kittstools.securesites.net/store/product2904.html
Wow! He said it was like $135 for a tap. Thanks! I'll admit that this is my first build and I'm flying by the seat of my pants. It's a major learning curve. Welding that stuff that can kill you if it comes apart is outside my comfort level.
 
Wow! He said it was like $135 for a tap. Thanks! I'll admit that this is my first build and I'm flying by the seat of my pants. It's a major learning curve. Welding that stuff that can kill you if it comes apart is outside my comfort level.
You don't need a high dollar tap for chasing threads. The import taps work fine, you're not going to use them for a thousand bungs and they aren't cutting full threads, they are only chasing threads and cleaning up the distortion from welding. Use some light cutting oil, blow out the small chips with compressed air and call it good.
 
You don't need a high dollar tap for chasing threads. The import taps work fine, you're not going to use them for a thousand bungs and they aren't cutting full threads, they are only chasing threads and cleaning up the distortion from welding. Use some light cutting oil, blow out the small chips with compressed air and call it good.
Thanks for the advice.
 
Ordered some Spicer ball joints. Had a hard time deciding which brand to get (moog, synergy,spicer).
Going to order a offset track bar setup from ruffstuff today.
 
Ordered some Spicer ball joints. Had a hard time deciding which brand to get (moog, synergy,spicer).
Going to order a offset track bar setup from ruffstuff today.

You made the right choice. Synergy are garbage, Moog is not that great, and Spicer is above and beyond the best choice in regards to replacement ball joints!
 
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planning on my U-bolts running up and not getting me hung up. I picked up some extra spring perches from our local dirt track store. It was not easy getting in the small area to weld.
 
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The welds are a bit on the cold side. Turn the wire speed down or the voltage up just a bit.
I ran out of wire, so when I put the new wire in I turned the speed up to feed. I got in a rush and didn't check it. Still learning lol
I've only got a Hobart 140, I may be taking on too much for the welder. ( so I've been told)
 
Looks like you're making great progress though.

I really need to teach myself to weld... Really bad
 
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Looks like you're making great progress though.

I really need to teach myself to weld... Really bad
Some progress. I should of took a welding class. I should get my 9" 3rd member tonight. And slowly get it ready for install on Saturday.

Also need to research my rear brake calipers and see what pads I need.
 
Now I'm just deciding between using TREs or hiems for steering. I'm planning on using 1.5"ODx.250 for my steering and also my track bar.