Some but both of us are fairly new to the area so not super submersed in all of them yet.
Alright, when you get it figured out, let me know. I already figured my area out. 🤣
 
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Well, for now I'm going to skip the RMS. Thank you, because you always know more than me, so I'm the one learning here from the master mechanic.

I wish I could get the RMS done, it's always messy around the TCase because of oil and now ATF. I'm tired of that crap!

I'd do the RMS while you have the transmission out. Here is the type of seal I was thinking of and why I said to remove the flywheel.
I wonder if you can get a solid seal for the 4.0 instead of the half round??

1614653765995.webp



this picture came from this thread.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/97-clutch-replacement-and-rms-2-5-4-cylinder.46385/
You're already there and it'll be a lot easier to replace the RMS with the tranny out. As for the leak of your t-case I'd put a little thicker bead around the outside and let it tack up before you put the two halves together.
 
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How pissed would you be if the PO did that and you went to replace a half seal 🤣

If that is the worst thing the PO had done I'd be cool with it... I've had to figure out WAY WORSE things before.

To be honest I am not a big fan of the half seals. All the engines I ever did a RMS on in the Army had full circle seals. And you dropped the transmission & t-case using a chain cum-a-long & put a tankers bar between the rear of the cab and thru the windshield with it opened of course.
 
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I got the shifter free of the boot, all sensors and attached electrical detached. Slave cylinder removed, negatively be battery terminal disconnect, starter detached, 2x E12 bolts on top removed. Just need the motivation to go drop the tranny now.
 
I got the shifter free of the boot, all sensors and attached electrical detached. Slave cylinder removed, negatively be battery terminal disconnect, starter detached, 2x E12 bolts on top removed. Just need the motivation to go drop the tranny now.

Well get at it dude. You're just about there...
 
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I got every bolt off, the two E12’s, the two that double to hold the slave cylinder and the starter, the other starter bolt, they’re all out and the transmission jack is strapped to the tranny, but I can’t get that damn thing out. Even with help from another person. There’s a gusset or sleeve where the two bolt holes were on each side, and I think one at the top (NSG370), and I can’t slide it out for the life of me. I can see 1/3 inch of the sleeve, but can’t get it any further, What now? I freakin worked on it, jerking it, shaking it back and forth for an hour. Gave up.
 
I did buy a clutch fork, glad I did. I may need a pivot bolt. About to go install the clutch.

as for the fly wheel. There was one place looks like it overheated. I don't think so bad. I used 220 emery cloth to work it a bit. I hope it's ok. I see some scratches from the emery cloth. Try to work them out, but it's hard to go in a perfect circle and get it smooth. Thinking about doing some 400emery cloth. IDK anything about this part of the procedure.
 
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You're that far into it, pull it off and have it cut, you'll get much better engagement

They do not recommend machining the flywheel on the TJ because it is beveled if I remember correctly. It mentions it in the FSM and has been talked about a lot on here.

Flywheel machining is not recommended. The flywheel
clutch surface is machined to a unique contour
and machining will negate this feature. Minor flywheel
scoring can be cleaned up by hand with 180
grit emery or with surface grinding equipment.
Remove only enough material to reduce scoring
(approximately 0.001 - 0.003 in.).
 
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Did not know that, never seen on in person

I don't know that you can SEE the bevel. And I didn't know about it either until I'd read it on here a while ago. But it's good to know and this way you don't ruin your flywheel.