05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
So, with the tranny out it looks like it makes it much easier to get the oil pan off. Is that right?
Slightly easier and only for the two bolts at the back of the oil pan. Other than those, zero difference.
OP
Y, it’s just 6 bolts to separate them. I think the 231 is 89lbs. Have no idea how much the NSG-370 weighs.
bought a fork clutch to change out while there. Anything else besides the Luk clutch kit I already have?
Do I need a puller to get the old throw out bearing out? Seems like I read a procedure around here somewhere.
I’ve had mine out twice thanks to a bad throw out bearing a year after I replaced the clutch. First go around I dropped them together and it went ok, tried to put them back in together and my buddy and I tried for the better part of a hour to get it lined up to no avail. Separated them and tried again, trans went right in.
Second time I just separated right off the bat. Much easier IMO.
I picked a set of these, makes it much easier to get to the top nuts
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-pro-gear-sae-stubby-combo-wrench-set-93923.html
Second time I just separated right off the bat. Much easier IMO.
I picked a set of these, makes it much easier to get to the top nuts
https://www.harborfreight.com/7-piece-pro-gear-sae-stubby-combo-wrench-set-93923.html
My bad. That's the way I've always done it. I'm a mechanic for a living, I use a fullsize transmission jack and pulling them Together and rolling out of the way is standard, for me and the guys I have worked around.
The tilt down is for access to the t-case nuts. No need for a stubby anything that way.
OP
I’ll remove my savvy crossmember, lower everything, remove the TCase (again), then drop the tranny with a set of these. Our local HF has a set. Thanks!
OP
Aren’t the TCase bolts 9/16”? The upper one with the Savvy TCase Shifter bracket is the toughest one to get to IIRC
Yes 9/16 or 14mm.
And I said drop together thinking about the way I do it on a hoist with a roll around trans jack that the assembly bolts to.
If I was working on the ground I would separate.
The RMS and clutch are separate jobs. Having the trans out won't really help you with the RMS. IIRC, the only thing they have in common is the starter, and that's only two bolts.
Do you have an E12 socket? The two bolts on top of the bell housing are external torx, or were on my NV3550. Maybe the 6 speed is different.
Also, I'd drop the tcase off the transmission, first. Makes both much easier to handle. I dropped mine attached, but it went back in the Jeep separated.
Finally... The pilot bearing can be a bugger. I fought mine on the way out. Had to rent a slide hammer with a set of internal puller jaws. The bearing pulled apart and the outer race broke. There is a description in my build thread, if you're so inclined.
OP
I know u know what you’re doing. Just different tools for the same job sometimes. At least I have a transmission jack I scored a month ago.
My advice is probably bad. Flat rate or high volume, in a shop. And alot years in a transmission only shop.
For ease and caution I say separate. I also think the rear main can be done either way. But I would rather do one when the transmission is outta given the option, if it's needed. There will be a little more room to work.
OP
Ok, RMS another day. I’ll try high mileage conventional first. If that solves it,
.No, I do not have an E12. Thanks for that.
I’ll be separating the two after all the good advice.
I’ll rent a slide puller with puller jaws. Thanks for all that.
- Jeremy
Awesome that you scored a transmission jack though. Will make life easier.
Still want to get together and wheel with the other north Idaho/Washington people.
I am a fan of the LUK brand clutch your wife got you also. Good stuff.
Still want to get together and wheel with the other north Idaho/Washington people.
I am a fan of the LUK brand clutch your wife got you also. Good stuff.
The two piece RMS in the 4.slow really doesn't require any room behind the engine to replace. Drop the exhaust, pull the starter, drop the oil pan. Remove the stiffener and pull the #7 cap off the crank bearings. One half of the RMS is in the removed cap. The other is in the block. Push on it until it starts to slide around, grab it with needle nose and pull it out. Assembly is the opposite, and Bob's your uncle.
OP
OP
Good to know about the Luk. There was an alternative, but I had this one in my Amazon list so that’s what she bought.
North Idaho Trail Blazers is the group here that actually wheels and are active in building trail and working with local authorities. Good group of guys.