05 Flame Red TJ Build

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JMT

JMT

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Here’s the bracket and rods I built to stabilize the spare in the tub behind the front seat to keep it from moving left to right. We’ll see if it works. The bracket will be bolted into the rear fender well into nutserts for easy removal. The tire will have a strap and cleats to hold it in the other direction.

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Wildman

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Are you going to run a strap over the top also? Just thinking about that slim chance that you were to flop or roll. Will it still stay in place then? Just to be on the safe side would adding a strap over just be added piece of mind?
 
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Are you going to run a strap over the top also? Just thinking about that slim chance that you were to flop or roll. Will it still stay in place then? Just to be on the safe side would adding a strap over just be added piece of mind?

Oh yeah, see post #5201 where I mentioned the strap, cletes, and d-rings.

Thanks for checking though. Always better safe than sorry!
 
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Sorry dude I missed it. Wasn't online much so I'd only skimmed. Got to look out for my hand-me-down dude.

I was just excited about the fab/weld part of the project. I’ll post the strap part later. If it works well as an overall system it might help someone else do the same. If not I’ll modify it and try again. I could box the bracket in, and I’m still thinking about it, but I don’t think more strength is needed there.
 
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Made a few changes with the T at the bracket. Larger bolt and a nut to secure it. Before I had a straight rod that I could sneak out and just leave the bracket. That’s not enough to give me peace of mind. With the DRings and a practice ratchet strap I’m going to go for a test run at the ORV. You can see the tire is right up behind my seat. You could move it back some if you’re taller, but this was all I needed for me. Plus, I lean my seat slightly forward when I wheel.

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Well, everything worked well for 3 hours wheelin with.a couple guys on 37’s. I think there is a weak spot where I could have weld fatigue, so I’m going to strengthen that and call it good 👍🏼.Pic is not me.

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My Rockford Fosgate PS-8 crapped out after 5 years, which is a little premature. I’m looking at other options. Simple is to replace with another self powered sub, but I’m thinking a Soundstream 5 ch Nano and a 8” Kicker square slimline sub mounted in a sealed enclosure with 0.3-0.4cu ft space (14x11x4” internal dimensions).
 
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AustinPaul

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Today I took the afternoon to do a fix I’ve been thinking through for a month or more. I learned a lot, and this is a novel solution that could be a write-up for people with the 05-06 manual with MML and BL. The problem I encountered with this setup is that the transmission and TCase are so low relative to the tub that the shifter attachment falls right down into the lower rubber shifter boot and rips it to shreds.
View attachment 47576

View attachment 47562
The problem is compounded by the angle change that leans the shifter knob that comes out of the transmission back. Then all the heat starts moving into your cab, which is not fun. What I learned is why the real answer is a TT, but if you don’t have $1600 at the time, here’s a way to fix it so you can stop your feet from feeling like they are in flames :flamethrower2:. If you live in a very cold area, you might not want to do this fix, just enjoy the extra heat!

The 05-06 console is unique. It is not nearly as easy to finagle as earlier model Jeeps. What I needed to accomplish was two things. First, extend the shifter about 1.5”. That will almost get the attachment out of the lower shifter boot. Second, move the center console area back 1”. This is the maximum distance you can move it, since the rear of the console runs into the tub in front of the back seat and your TCase lever and Parking Brake will hit the console too.

1. Remove your shifter bezel by snapping it outward at each of the four corners
2. Unscrew your shifter from the Tranny portion (star pattern bolt about 3/4” long)
3. remove the shifter
4. Remove the 10mm and 8mm bolts holding the lower shifter boot to the tub. Keep it for practicing your template later on. Here’s what it should look like at this point.
View attachment 47564
5. You’ll see the black clips at the mounting locations. There’s no need to remove them.
6. Modify your old lower shifter boot by cutting 1 1/8” off the rear corrugated section and the side that hits the TCase mount. Here a pic of the old and new side by side so you can see where I cut (I used tin snips).
View attachment 47566
7. Mount the old one in the hole and trim more as needed till you have it 1” back.
8. Mark new holes 1” above your other holes (except the top hole which you can no longer use) and drill them.
View attachment 47568
9. Check for figment and trim if necessary.
10. Re-install with 10 and 8mm bolts.
11, stick the transmission portion of the shifter up through the hole. I put some Vaseline there just so it would have a lubricant and wouldn’t damage the rubber, but probably not necessary.

Now we are 1” back!
View attachment 47569
12. Extend your shifter knob. The bolt size is M8x1.25. And you’ll need it 2-2.5” long, with a spacer and I needed a few washers to take up the slack. Here’s the stock one beside the new extended one.
View attachment 47570
Install that puppy and you should be relatively ready to go. It’s not a perfect solution, the shifter is still too far back, but that’s due to the angle.

In Neutral
View attachment 47571

In 2nd
View attachment 47572

Back together. Everything worked!
View attachment 47573
Now no more heat in the cab! This solution allows me to just move everything back forward when I do the TT. I didn’t have to drill the tub, except the new mount in the cup holder. I just used a self tapping screw.

I hope this helps someone out there!

View attachment 47561

Hey JMT. Are you still getting updates on this thread?

Great write-up BTW.
 
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AustinPaul

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I’m still here. All quiet right now. A few big ideas on order but projects wont be underway till mid August. Thanks…
Thanks! I'm replacing the inner boot on my '05. When I bought my TJ, I saw the BL. Seeing your write-up made me realize why the shift boot failed in the first place.

So all these years later, do you think it's possible to skip a step and just measure 1" forward on every bolt hole in the new liner, or much better to use the old one as a template for the new one?
 
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Thanks! I'm replacing the inner boot on my '05. When I bought my TJ, I saw the BL. Seeing your write-up made me realize why the shift boot failed in the first place.

So all these years later, do you think it's possible to skip a step and just measure 1" forward on every bolt hole in the new liner, or much better to use the old one as a template for the new one?

Use the old one as a template and move it back 1”.

Another solution that is easier is bend the shifter forward.

The best solution is a tummy tuck. Everything lines back up then. No need to move anything, just replace the inner boot.
 
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Irun

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My Rockford Fosgate PS-8 crapped out after 5 years, which is a little premature. I’m looking at other options. Simple is to replace with another self powered sub, but I’m thinking a Soundstream 5 ch Nano and a 8” Kicker square slimline sub mounted in a sealed enclosure with 0.3-0.4cu ft space (14x11x4” internal dimensions).

I did a Sound Ordinance B-8PTD 8". It's more expensive, but if I were to do it again, I'd do a JBL BassPro Nano. It's the most compact I could find and would be easy to mount in small places.

 
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AustinPaul

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Use the old one as a template and move it back 1”.

Another solution that is easier is bend the shifter forward.

The best solution is a tummy tuck. Everything lines back up then. No need to move anything, just replace the inner boot.
Makes good sense. Measure twice, cut once.

I hear you on the t-case lift. My '97 was set up well (had to sell her). This '05 that I've had for a few years came with a 3" lift + 1-1.25" BL. I'm not a fan of BLs and would have avoided it given the choice.

The shift boot has been blown out since I've owned it, but in this extra super hot Texas summer, I just can't take it anymore. Wife? Not even close! 😂

Appreciate the detailed write up. Also lifting the shifter will bring it back to oem. I never had an issue with it, but will surely appreciate it being higher up.
 
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Makes good sense. Measure twice, cut once.

I hear you on the t-case lift. My '97 was set up well (had to sell her). This '05 that I've had for a few years came with a 3" lift + 1-1.25" BL. I'm not a fan of BLs and would have avoided it given the choice.

The shift boot has been blown out since I've owned it, but in this extra super hot Texas summer, I just can't take it anymore. Wife? Not even close! 😂

Appreciate the detailed write up. Also lifting the shifter will bring it back to oem. I never had an issue with it, but will surely appreciate it being higher up.

Your decisions make sense. I am from Fredericksburg, TX. Moved away 3 years ago. Miss the Hill Country. My Jeep was re-geared in Austin at Just Jeeps. They did a good job. Lots of good wheelin at Hidden Falls, Wolf Caves, et al. I know how that heat pours in during the TX heat. Hope this solution provides some relief with the new inner boot and raised shifter. It worked for me. My boot is still solid! Jeep on! 🙂