Before I tear into the dash I wanted to know where my switches and gauges were going to go. When I had my Eaton locker installed, the switch would not fit in the stock T. J. switch positions and so they use the area to the right and cut a hole for it. Basically they ruined that space. So, later I added winch in cab controls right next to it. Now that I’m getting a transmission gauge I want to use that space for the gauge. I really don’t want it way down low by the transfer case lever.

So, I ordered some 1/8 inch ABS plastic sheet and began to think about how to restore that little area and move the locker switch. First, I wasn’t even sure if the temperature gauge would fit there, but it will. I measure the area I wanted to cover after removing the two switches and cut a couple pieces. First one was no good. Second one was better. I learned that it’s better to is Razorblade to make each line and then repeatedly go over that line, then just bend and break it to get smooth edges.

The mess back there.
View attachment 498188
The process (yes, I could start over with a fresh switch panel, but it’s another $60-70.
View attachment 498191

View attachment 498192
The last two pics are the two different sides of the plastic. I could paint with SEM too, but probably just go with side A or B and call it good.

View attachment 498195


View attachment 498194

My problem now is where am I gonna put the locker switch because it doesn’t fit in the stock position and I looked at manipulating one and it’s really not gonna work. So I think I’m gonna put it down by the transfer case lever, which makes sense since that’s your go-to for four-wheel-drive anyway. I could get one of those crappy eBay switches, but the Eaton switches are really nice and it has a safety on it. So, while switches are cool and all, I think I’m just going to put it there and my jeep will look like a sleeper through the window.

Going to tear into the dash…

Nice solution, Jeremy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Before I tear into the dash I wanted to know where my switches and gauges were going to go. When I had my Eaton locker installed, the switch would not fit in the stock T. J. switch positions and so they use the area to the right and cut a hole for it. Basically they ruined that space. So, later I added winch in cab controls right next to it. Now that I’m getting a transmission gauge I want to use that space for the gauge. I really don’t want it way down low by the transfer case lever.

So, I ordered some 1/8 inch ABS plastic sheet and began to think about how to restore that little area and move the locker switch. First, I wasn’t even sure if the temperature gauge would fit there, but it will. I measure the area I wanted to cover after removing the two switches and cut a couple pieces. First one was no good. Second one was better. I learned that it’s better to is Razorblade to make each line and then repeatedly go over that line, then just bend and break it to get smooth edges.

The mess back there.
View attachment 498188
The process (yes, I could start over with a fresh switch panel, but it’s another $60-70.
View attachment 498191

View attachment 498192
The last two pics are the two different sides of the plastic. I could paint with SEM too, but probably just go with side A or B and call it good.

View attachment 498195


View attachment 498194

My problem now is where am I gonna put the locker switch because it doesn’t fit in the stock position and I looked at manipulating one and it’s really not gonna work. So I think I’m gonna put it down by the transfer case lever, which makes sense since that’s your go-to for four-wheel-drive anyway. I could get one of those crappy eBay switches, but the Eaton switches are really nice and it has a safety on it. So, while switches are cool and all, I think I’m just going to put it there and my jeep will look like a sleeper through the window.

Going to tear into the dash…

Do you have seat risers? I have 1.25" risers on mine, and with me being ~ 6ft, I can't see the gauge very well in that location.

I think I want to get an early TJ passenger airbag cutoff switch panel and relocate the gauge there.
 
Do you have seat risers? I have 1.25" risers on mine, and with me being ~ 6ft, I can't see the gauge very well in that location.

I think I want to get an early TJ passenger airbag cutoff switch panel and relocate the gauge there.

I do have 1.25” seat risers. I’m 5’6”. I’ll set the switch panel in place and take a look. Good idea.
 
  • Like
Reactions: PNW_LJ
I'm really trying to be patient, but don't like removing the steering wheel. I had several problems along the way. Got it off and decided to stop for the day. Tomorrow I'll try to get the dash off and swap harnesses.
IMG_2604.jpeg

Happy birthday to me!

IMG_2606.jpeg
 
Before I tear into the dash I wanted to know where my switches and gauges were going to go. When I had my Eaton locker installed, the switch would not fit in the stock T. J. switch positions and so they use the area to the right and cut a hole for it. Basically they ruined that space. So, later I added winch in cab controls right next to it. Now that I’m getting a transmission gauge I want to use that space for the gauge. I really don’t want it way down low by the transfer case lever.

So, I ordered some 1/8 inch ABS plastic sheet and began to think about how to restore that little area and move the locker switch. First, I wasn’t even sure if the transmission temperature gauge would fit there, but it will. I measured the area I wanted to cover after removing the two switches and cut a couple pieces. First one was no good. Second one was better. I learned that a jigsaw with a blade for plastic causes too much melt-age. It’s better to use a razor-blade to score the line repeatedly and then just bend and break it to get smooth edges.

The mess back there.
View attachment 498188
The process (yes, I could start over with a fresh switch panel, but it’s another $60-70).
View attachment 498191

View attachment 498192
The last two pics are the two different sides of the plastic. I could paint with SEM too, but probably just go with one side or the other and call it good. Most at my house like the way it looks in the pic just below. I might cut one more since I’m getting better each time.

View attachment 498195


View attachment 498194

My problem now is where to put the locker switch because it doesn’t fit in the stock position and I looked at manipulating one and it’s really not gonna work. So I think I’m gonna put it down by the transfer case lever, which makes sense since that’s your go-to for four-wheel-drive anyway. I could get one of those crappy eBay switches that would fit, but the Eaton switches are really nice and it has a safety on it. So, while switch plates are cool and all, I think I’m just going to put it there and my jeep will look like a sleeper through the window. All I care about is lockers working anyway. Function is most important to me.

Going out to tear into the dash…

I like the textured side of the ABS panel. I'd round those corners off some though, so it blends in a little better. What do the Eaton switches look like? I can't remember.

About 15 years ago we were working on my youngest sons '85 4Runner. Previous owner butchers the center console lid to fit a CB in there and have it sticking out the middle. 😵‍💫 We had some pieces of on old truck bedliner and used to trim screws from Advance Auto Parts to make a little cover for it. It turned out pretty nice. We also made a little panel for his winch control,

4runner rear diff 013.jpg

S7300187.JPG

4runner rear diff 015.jpg

S7300184.JPG
 
Week 2

The old dash harness is out and the new harness is in. This one has the OD connector and I already have a switch. This part went really smooth. I should have stopped there.

IMG_2610.jpeg


In 2019 I took my Jeep to my mechanic to fix my AC. I lived in TX at the time. You need AC. Well, actually, I had lived without it for about 8 years in my truck before and then the Jeep. I have never had AC luck. Every story I have about AC is bad. That saga apparently will never die. The mechanic in 2019 said it was the compressor, and I knew nothing about Mopar or any of that at the time. He bought a NAPA brand chinesium, installed it, charged the system, tested it, and gave me a bill for $600. 3 days later hot air again. Maybe my compressor was bad, but if it was the Evap was bad too. I moved to WA that year, so not much need for AC, but it would be nice to have everything working, right? Dumb me. I had the AC evacuated last week. It only had 10% remaining. That cost $60. Today I really hesitated to drop the HVAC box and try to replace it due to all this bad luck. But I did anyway. When I was removing the second heater hose the inlet or outlet broke. There went the Mopar heater core. 😬 It was leaking, but it's been working since I bought the Jeep in 2016, so I wasn't going to mess with it. Not good, but maybe it was about to crap out anyway. It's 18 years old.

IMG_2619.jpeg

There's more. I broke a tiny lever on the bottom of the HVAC called the "panel door lever". It has something to do with one of the two actuator motors. These don't exist as far as I can tell. I'd have to buy a whole new HVAC for about $350-500. I'm trying to fix it. Gobs of JB Weld and I'm going to give it about 3 coats and fill in the whole area. I won't be touching the HVAC box till next week to allow it time to set and cure 3-4 times.

IMG_2621.jpeg


IMG_2624.jpeg


Started searching for heater cores. Performance Radiator doesn't have any in stock. I read a thread where a guy was getting 140* at the vents on his second brand. It came from Rock Auto. I messaged him and asked which one, then went and did my own research. I put this one in the cart. When the guy got back to me it was the same one. I guess I'm going to see how this goes. Won't be here till next Tuesday, so the dash will be apart for awhile. Thisis the heater core I went with.

Screenshot 2024-02-08 at 2.21.33 PM.png



I am thinking I can go ahead and start doing the engine and transmission harness, so I think I'll go work on that while I wait on parts. I now know about 1/1,000,000th of what @Wildman feels like, and I lost my patience. I don't know how you are doing it man. I would have given up. Real appreciation for you staying with it.
 
Last edited:
I now know about 1/1,000,000th of what @Wildman feels like, and I lost my patience. I don't know how you are doing it man. I would have given up. Real appreciation for you staying with it.
You can boost that number a bit if you drag the tahoe into the garage 😉
 
You can boost that number a bit if you drag the tahoe into the garage 😉

Last thing I need is another aspect to the project. I am now on a course to NOT DO ANYTHING EXTRA! Just do the swap and go to bed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
I say someone posting about those door levers and they had 3D printed one.
I'll try to find it for you.

Never give up...
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
I say someone posting about those door levers and they had 3D printed one.
I'll try to find it for you.

Never give up...

No kidding, you’re hardcore. I‘m just hoping I still have interest in the Jeep after this. Really.

The swap isn’t that bad, it’s just all the other extra things you want to do while you’re in there that make it such a pain. I may have forgot to mention that I messed up the first RMS. It was Mopar, the next one I ordered is FelPro. Hopefully I’ll get the little tool with this one
 
How accessible is that lever once the dash is back together?

It is accessible because EastBloc was able to put a screw in it and to rotate it to a 70/30 split. I can’t remember how high the HVAC sits on the wall. I’m going to set it back up on the screws later today and take a look. I’ll be contacting Davey’s to see if they have one.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
There are so many little things to do. I finished up the RMS. I really hope it seals. New oil pan and Fel-pro gasket is done. I really hope it seals too! I was worried about the front four bolts that thread into the aluminum portion of the block. I put blue loctite on them. OPDA gear looks ok.

IMG_2638.jpeg


IMG_2640.jpeg


IMG_2646.jpeg


Originally I soldered the front dash speakers. It’s not good to do it that way. The solder gets weakened via vibration. The solder almost crumbled, so I found some female spades and used my Klein crimpers and adhesive shrink tubing (though not necessary inside, it’s a lot nicer).
IMG_2655.jpeg



I wired the AutoMeter sending unit for the transmission Temp Gauge. I probably have a lifetime supply of non-insulated ring terminals in all sorts of sizes from Sherco Marine which was recommended by Blaine. If anyone needs one sometime, just let me know and I can drop in the mail. I need to pick up some Teflon thread sealant to install the sending unit in the pan that Blaine brazed in a few months ago. The pan was also rusted in the area he worked in and he reminded me yesterday k need to clean it up and paint it, so that’s all done too.
IMG_2656.jpeg


IMG_2657.jpeg


IMG_2644.jpeg


IMG_2645.jpeg


Still a long way to go…
 
Shifter base and shifter are from an 04’ and front console is 05’. I modified the tab that the console bolts too and got the hole drilled.

IMG_2663.jpeg


IMG_2662.jpeg


IMG_2664.jpeg




Starting to look like an auto, but everything is back out except the shifter base. Another difference with the 05’ is one of the holes in the base plate is nowhere close to lining up with the tub. It’s the one on the left just above the TCase lever bracket. I don’t think this will be a big deal. All the others are dead on. Odd.

IMG_2660.jpeg
 
I forgot to show that I installed the transmission temp gauge and O/D switch in the switch panel. I still have to find a place for the locker switch. I tried in front of the TCase lever, but that won’t work on the late model console. Maybe I’ll put it on the shifter bezel. I saw someone buy the center vents with spaces for switches. It looked good. Anyone else have an Eaton E-Locker and using their switch? Where did you put yours? I know they can go anywhere, I’m just looking for a good idea. 🤷‍♂️

@Woodrow

IMG_2666.jpeg