View attachment 499682
The ARB switch for the on board air fit as well (same technique).
View attachment 499682
The ARB switch for the on board air fit as well (same technique).
View attachment 499682
The ARB switch for the on board air fit as well (same technique).
That's always an option. I really wanted to keep the stock Eaton switch with the lockouts. Thanks though! Looks good. I need to get your puller back to you soon. I'll let you know when I'm coming your direction.
No rush. I don't think I'll be changing the clutch any time soon.
… I'm assuming the switch banks are the same size, but can you measure when you have a chance …
I forgot to respond to this. Unfortunately, I can’t measure for you because all 3 of mine are modified. However, I think you are right about the older and newer holes being the same size. Several years ago, I pulled the switch containing trim piece out of the lower center console of a newer TJ at a junkyard. I wanted the blanks for the unused switch holes as mine were missing (before lockers and on board air). They fit perfectly.
A bit of a pain to get to those bolts, but not too bad.
Get the Four Seasons brand. Did you not look at my build thread about the Performance Radiator option?
Amazing work. Following along myself, tired of shifting...
Now that I’ve put the dash back till at least next Monday I need to figure out something to do this week/weekend.
I think I’ll move my fuel pump wiring, brake and fuel lines on top of the frame rail on the drivers side. At least then I’ll be more ready for a midarm if that happens. The Savvy MUA crossmember inner bracket already interferes with them anyway. I’ll paint a few pieces, and take the TCase, skid, and Crossmember to a car wash. They’ve got soo much grime on them from the RMS and/or oil pan leak.
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You may have seen this before, but I think Blaine's solution is elegant. Adel clamps is what they're called.