I've got one of the Daystar vent switch panels if you want to try one out. I'm not using it.
 
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The e-locker switches fit in the stock holes with some careful Dremel work.
 
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The ARB switch for the on board air fit as well (same technique).

A few more questions. I'm in the late model TJ and your early model. I'm assuming the switch banks are the same size, but can you measure when you have a chance. When I looked at using a dremel to enlarge mine, it appeared that the width was about the same, but the height of the Eaton switch was too tall.
View attachment 499682
The ARB switch for the on board air fit as well (same technique).

Wow. Ok, that helps. I can at least see why mine will probably not work in a stock location. Your early model has quite a bit more plastic above the switch that you could dremel out. My late model has more below, but not enough. I'd be working into plastic that bends. Shucks. Yours looks good though!
 
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That's always an option. I really wanted to keep the stock Eaton switch with the lockouts. Thanks though! Looks good. I need to get your puller back to you soon. I'll let you know when I'm coming your direction.

No rush. I don't think I'll be changing the clutch any time soon.
 
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Ended week 2 filling it back up with oil and bolting the cats back to the manifold. A bit of a pain to get to those bolts, but not too bad. I’ll focus on getting the dash back together this week, but I need the heater core to arrive. It should be here Tuesday.
 
… I'm assuming the switch banks are the same size, but can you measure when you have a chance …

I forgot to respond to this. Unfortunately, I can’t measure for you because all 3 of mine are modified. However, I think you are right about the older and newer holes being the same size. Several years ago, I pulled the switch containing trim piece out of the lower center console of a newer TJ at a junkyard. I wanted the blanks for the unused switch holes as mine were missing (before lockers and on board air). They fit perfectly.
 
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I forgot to respond to this. Unfortunately, I can’t measure for you because all 3 of mine are modified. However, I think you are right about the older and newer holes being the same size. Several years ago, I pulled the switch containing trim piece out of the lower center console of a newer TJ at a junkyard. I wanted the blanks for the unused switch holes as mine were missing (before lockers and on board air). They fit perfectly.

No problem, I have plenty to do, but thanks for the response. With your information I’m going to take another look and see if it’s possible in the late model switch panels. It’s a $60 mistake if I cut into it and blow it.
 
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Not much to do when Performance Radiator looks like this (L) compared to OEM (R). They shipped another one out. Should be here Wednesday. That will put me 3 days behind.
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I decided to keep cleaning up the HEVAC box and I decided to add some Noico sound deadening to the firewall and the transmission tunnel. It’s not complete coverage, but every bit helps. I don’t want to put it on the floor of the tub. Fear of getting wet.
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Now that I’ve put the dash back till at least next Monday I need to figure out something to do this week/weekend.

I think I’ll move my fuel pump wiring, brake and fuel lines on top of the frame rail on the drivers side. At least then I’ll be more ready for a midarm if that happens. The Savvy MUA crossmember inner bracket already interferes with them anyway. I’ll paint a few pieces, and take the TCase, skid, and Crossmember to a car wash. They’ve got soo much grime on them from the RMS and/or oil pan leak.

I’m contemplating doing the engine harness later in the week. I’m sort of nervous about it because I wanted to take things apart and put them back together in close succession so I remember everything well. That’s not happening. If I get fidgety I may go ahead and do it, especially if I can get my son to leave his rig home one day do I can go back and forth and do it with more confidence.

Also have the radiator to do, but hoped I could get the heater core installed first so I could test it with the OEM Radiator rather than the CSF.
 
Amazing work. Following along myself, tired of shifting...

I knew I was getting tired of shifting and one day I’d be done. So far the swap is not really that difficult. Just time consuming. Hopefully everything will work like plug-n-play when I turn the key over. If so, I’ll help you with anything I can if you decide to swap.
 
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Now that I’ve put the dash back till at least next Monday I need to figure out something to do this week/weekend.

I think I’ll move my fuel pump wiring, brake and fuel lines on top of the frame rail on the drivers side. At least then I’ll be more ready for a midarm if that happens. The Savvy MUA crossmember inner bracket already interferes with them anyway. I’ll paint a few pieces, and take the TCase, skid, and Crossmember to a car wash. They’ve got soo much grime on them from the RMS and/or oil pan leak.

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You may have seen this before, but I think Blaine's solution is elegant. Adel clamps is what they're called.