Just to update my build thread and have everything in one place:

EAG Front Bumper and Superwinch 9500SR
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The bumper has been questioned by others. In my experience, I've hit two granite rocks with this bumper. All I had to do was wipe off the marks and the bumper was fine, no dents, no scratches even, so it holds up pretty well under rock crawling situations.
 
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Next order of business. Some thoughts and questions. After wheelin' these parts on 31's with 2.5" OME, I need more tires and lift. I keep hitting and breaking stuff. I really think I need to go to 35's eventually. I know that's an expensive route...if I want to do it right. However, I'm not sure, and I was aiming for 33's. Where I end up will determine my re-gear and I don't want to do it twice. Here's what I'm thinking.

1) Go ahead and build for 33's next year. That means adding my 1.25" Savvy BL and Novak TCase Shifter and mounting up the 33's. Then I'll wheel her some more and see how pleased I am with that. If I'm pleased, re-gear to our forums recommended 4.56 and Super 35.

2) If I need to go further, add some 1.75" spacers to my 2.5" OME. That will take me to 4.25" SL and 1.25" BL which should be good for 35's. Adjustable Upper and Lower Control Arms. Flip rear shocks or relocate shock mounts. Super 35 with Detroit or E-Locker. Re-gear to 4.88.

What are your thoughts???? Will this work?
 
Sounds like a solid plan to me. Your gearing will suffer a bit on 33's, but it's manageable. When I switched to 33's, I ran that way for over a year before re-gearing. 5th gear was useless, and it felt like I was taking off in 2nd gear at stop signs, but like I said, it was manageable. You may very well be ok with 33's. If not, build for 35's. I'd also suggest armoring up the belly so you minimize breaking stuff while you're humping rocks.
 
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Might be hitting Moab and Ourray next June, so yeah!
Ouray? Is that the one in CO? We went there when I was a boy. It was beautiful camping up in the overlooking Mountains and enjoying the hot springs
 
Can I run 3.75-4" lift (2.5+OME and 1.25" BL) and the right flat or tube fenders with 35's?
 
Sure you could, but you'll have to trim some rear sheetmetal, or add some bump stop extension.
 
X2 what bob said. It can be done but it's not the best way to go about it.
I wonder if it might be best to try to stay at 4" just to avoid more driveline issues??? Yeah, more bumpstop. But if you reach 4" aren't you committing to SYE sand DC and longer arms, et al.?
 
I wonder if it might be best to try to stay at 4" just to avoid more driveline issues??? Yeah, more bumpstop. But if you reach 4" aren't you committing to SYE sand DC and longer arms, et al.?

I am not trying to be mean. if I seem that I am please let me know and I will delete this post. I don't understand why some TJ guys hesitate on purchasing a SYE and DC driveshaft. It plain works and makes for a better drive line angle. This can be done at anytime on the TJ's and is a great purchase if you are ever thinking about lifting a TJ.

What is the benefit of not doing it?
 
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I am not trying to be mean. if I seem that I am please let me know and I will delete this post. I don't understand why some TJ guys hesitate on purchasing a SYE and DC driveshaft. It plain works and makes for a better drive line angle. This can be done at anytime on the TJ's and is a great purchase if you are ever thinking about lifting a TJ.

What is the benefit of not doing it?
No, you're not being mean at all. Originally in my build I wanted to go this way, full or almost full TT and stick with 31's. I did my 2.5" OME and a 1"MML and was undecided on a 1"BL at the time. The day I put on my MML I got death wobble for a month. Eventually I solved it with a new MC adjustable trackbar. That scared me off of that direction, as well as other stories of problems with vibes somewhere along the process of lifting. After I wheeled some in my area I knew I should go to 33's or 35's. So, I'm sorting out how to get there and whether 33's or 35's. I'd really like to go to 35's, but to go upwards of 4" is expensive. I've got 5 kids, so I don't have a lot of money, and I'm just trying different configurations. So, I appreciate it @Fouledplugs . No offense intended, none taken. Besides, I've got pretty tough skin!
 
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My 2 cents, I think 35's would be a mistake for your scenario. Do you want to keep the jeep family friendly? 5 kids? So much more you need to do to make 35's work right. 33's just look proportionally right on a TJ with a low lift. 35's = midlife crisis? Focus brah!
 
35's = midlife crisis?

You can say that again...I thought I was having one about a year ago! It turned out to be worse, but explainable. Oh well, that's life, my life at least. Focus? Yeah, that's a problem. As you can tell, I keep changing things up. Part of it is I'm bored. If anyone saw all the projects I have going they wouldn't believe I could be bored. Oh well, I'll try to focus. Thanks brah!
 
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No, you're not being mean at all. Originally in my build I wanted to go this way, full or almost full TT and stick with 31's. I did my 2.5" OME and a 1"MML and was undecided on a 1"BL at the time. The day I put on my MML I got death wobble for a month. Eventually I solved it with a new MC adjustable trackbar. That scared me off of that direction, as well as other stories of problems with vibes somewhere along the process of lifting. After I wheeled some in my area I knew I should go to 33's or 35's. So, I'm sorting out how to get there and whether 33's or 35's. I'd really like to go to 35's, but to go upwards of 4" is expensive. I've got 5 kids, so I don't have a lot of money, and I'm just trying different configurations. So, I appreciate it @Fouledplugs . No offense intended, none taken. Besides, I've got pretty tough skin!
I understand completely. As we all know, money doesn't grow on trees. Having a Jeep, I sure wish it did though.
 
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35's = midlife crisis?

You can say that again...I thought I was having one about a year ago! It turned out to be worse, but explainable. Oh well, that's life, my life at least. Focus? Yeah, that's a problem. As you can tell, I keep changing things up. Part of it is I'm bored. If anyone saw all the projects I have going they wouldn't believe I could be bored. Oh well, I'll try to focus. Thanks brah!
Keep the ideas coming.
 
OK, to try and solve my death wobble problem, today putting on my new drag link and ZJ tire rod conversion with Moog parts, plus a fresh steering dampener By Rubicon Express. All the parts except the steering dampener needed to be degreased, sanded and painted. I used some etching primer and then four coats of black satin Duplicolor made for wheels.

When I remove my OEM steering dampener, it still has some life in it, but I was there already so just switched it out. I rechecked my ball joints and rotors and everything seems good there. I think the Pitman arm is fine too. So I'm very hopeful that this solves the death wobble, Which I was even getting this morning just driving a few miles down the road.
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I'm using the torque specs for the 93 to 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee ZJ for the part that is the conversion. They drag link is TJ. Wish me the best guys! Another Just Empty Every Pocket day.