05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
OP
Finished up! Definitely needed a pickle fork to remove drag link at Pitman. Everything else went smooth. Went for a spin. Stayed on the backroads that give me so much trouble. Stayed in the 40-45mph zone that is so problematic. No DW. Feels pretty solid. No shimmy. I think I'll have the tires balanced for good measure. The ZJ Tie Rod is way beefier than the TJ. 1" solid steel bar rather than a hollow bar ~ .75". Moog parts for ZJ are also far better. Have to paint though! Beware. Took me all of about 5 hours with priming and painting.
ZJ solid steel left; TJ hollow steel right
Greased the zerks. By the way, I put in five squirts, didn't want to overdo but. How much should I put in? Aligned it perfectly. The finished product!
She looks better than ever!
ZJ solid steel left; TJ hollow steel right
Greased the zerks. By the way, I put in five squirts, didn't want to overdo but. How much should I put in? Aligned it perfectly. The finished product!
She looks better than ever!
Congrats!
Once you do the steering the first time, you can do it again in a matte of 10-15 minutes the next time. Hell, I've removed my Currie Currectlync so many times (to work on other stuff), that I have everything memorized like the back of my hand, it's almost effortless.
Everything looks so good when it's clean and dirt free, huh?
Once you do the steering the first time, you can do it again in a matte of 10-15 minutes the next time. Hell, I've removed my Currie Currectlync so many times (to work on other stuff), that I have everything memorized like the back of my hand, it's almost effortless.
Everything looks so good when it's clean and dirt free, huh?
OP
Yeah, but dirtying it up again is fun! Here's to all the REAL Jeepers on the forum!:beer-toast1: Oh wait, everyone with a TJ is a REAL Jeeper
OP
OP
I can still go to 35's later, if i get the itch! When I was looking at my gear ratios, I don't have the numbers in front of me, but I think 4.30 was ideal for 33's and 4.61 for 35's. Of course, those ratios don't exist, so I was going to go with 4.56. Really that would work for 33's or 35's. So it's still an option even if I regear. Though I'm sure some would say I should go with 4.88 if 35's.
Starrs
TJ Guru
I'm really liking the KM2s in a 33. Lightweight and smaller for a 285. Not too much power loss. Looks right for the lift I have. Still think the AEV highline is the way to go lol but who has one of those lying around for sale these days. If they put those back into production they would make a killing.
The Moog boots have a pressure release feature designed into the boot. Great for those that are always getting wet. Pump'em till they squirt. Any excess will dribble out. Wipe'm off and they are ready to go again.
I thought I read this whole thread, but I think I missed something. I saw where you talked about possibly changing your sway bar links, but missed what you ended up getting. Looking at the pic it looks lik some sort of disco. What did you decide on?
OP
Hello
Nice buy. I have a 1997 Jeep TJ with a 2" body lift (soon adding a 2" suspension lift from Por Comp), 6" Bushwacker flares and offset rims (15's) and been running 33x12.5x15 tires with NO ISSUE. I would stay away from 17" rims just cause the tires cost more, but if budget is not an issue go for it. I am upgrading to tube flat fenders. I drive a lot of gravel roads and with rocks flying at 65mph the bushwackers have taken a beating, cracked, and I do have holes in them... (Not so bullet proof IMO) lol. if you are serious about changing fenders I would go with the steel flatfender. good luck
OP
Yeah, my fav steel fenders are JCR. Technically not a tube fender, but a design that will superced tube fenders for their outer edge strength. There would be cutting involved, or new inner fenders and try to recover some cost by selling stock fenders. Anyway, good to know your clearance is good for 33's with 2"
I went with 15's and am very pleased. Already have rock rash, so new rims in in a couple of years. Then I may go to two sets, one for DD and one for crawlin'
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OP
The wheel balance after ZJ Tie Rod Conversion + Drag Link made my ride smoother. I was 1.5oz off in Front driver and 1.25 off on Front passenger. Had them balanced on Road force machine.
After fighting to chase down DW for awhile you can forget how a TJ is supposed to drive. This makes it harder to know if you've fixed it as you replace component after component. It may improve after you replace a component but not be fixed and show up again later. I think I am at the point it's solved. Only took $500.
After fighting to chase down DW for awhile you can forget how a TJ is supposed to drive. This makes it harder to know if you've fixed it as you replace component after component. It may improve after you replace a component but not be fixed and show up again later. I think I am at the point it's solved. Only took $500.
OP