I just learned autozone gives you points for renting tools even if you return them. I got a $20 coupon from them.

The tuck looks great!! Can't wait to see the sssye
Head up, I’m close friends with a manager for autozone. He said if you spend the $20 before you return the tools (you get 3 months to return it before they charge you) then the money is free. Sometimes they take the $20 credit back when you return tools, it’s hit or miss. So spending it before makes sure you get the money.
 
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The XJ needs new speakers, they are crap. The doors take a 5.25” and my TJ has 5.25” Polks in the sound bar. So I moved them over to the XJ and got some 6.5” Polk DB’s for my soundbar. It was a little strange getting them to fit, but @skrelnik was kind enough to walk me through. I filled them with polyfill while I was there and also replaced the bulbs with LED’s. Looks and sounds fantastic. I also painted the sound pods with SEM black. They look sooo much better. Love SEM trim black. Thanks to @Chris for this suggestion a long time ago.
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I just bought some Kicker 6.5 speakers because I had read it could fit, but I am curious how you modified the sound bar to hold them. Are you able to share how you did that?
 
I just bought some Kicker 6.5 speakers because I had read it could fit, but I am curious how you modified the sound bar to hold them. Are you able to share how you did that?
What issue are you running into? I have kicker 6.5 in mine and all I did was drill new mounting holes.
 
What issue are you running into? I have kicker 6.5 in mine and all I did was drill new mounting holes.
It seemed like there wasn't enough plastic to drill new holes because the speaker just barely fit over the inlayed plastic meant for the 5.25 speakers. Looking at your picture, I see the speaker is not inlayed, and I thought maybe you added a bracket or something extra to mount to, but if not then I will check and again and see if I can do the same and drill new holes. thanks!
 
Head up, I’m close friends with a manager for autozone. He said if you spend the $20 before you return the tools (you get 3 months to return it before they charge you) then the money is free. Sometimes they take the $20 credit back when you return tools, it’s hit or miss. So spending it before makes sure you get the money.
Looks like I’m going to get $20 tomorrow.
 
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Nice work on the tuck, it is seriously an awesome mod. Also, your Jeep is clean underneath!
I agree it’s totally awesome. I’m very interested to see how it all turns out, but it’s already more than I thought it would be, and so far, it’s not as difficult as I thought it would be. It’s just time consuming and requires patience.

p.s. I’m still getting dirt dropping in my eyes occasionally. I hate that! 🙄
 
I agree it’s totally awesome. I’m very interested to see how it all turns out, but it’s already more than I thought it would be, and so far, it’s not as difficult as I thought it would be. It’s just time consuming and requires patience.

p.s. I’m still getting dirt dropping in my eyes occasionally. I hate that! 🙄
I told you after posting the mud puddle photo 🤣

When I did Toms tuck I felt the same way. It's a great system. The hardest part I found was getting the oil pan skid to line up with the drain hole.
 
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I told you after posting the mud puddle photo 🤣

When I did Toms tuck I felt the same way. It's a great system. The hardest part I found was getting the oil pan skid to line up with the drain hole.
Those outer C’s were no joke. I wish they would modify that once piece. Would have saved me hours.

And I don’t know yet for sure, but I think my front driveshaft is going to be fine. It looks very straight.
 
Getting ready to take this on this week. Thank you for your documentation and all who have chimed in! I have been staring at my outer C's for the last week willing them and pleading with them grow just a fraction.
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Keep up the good work. Yours is looking great!
 
Today was a long day. Here are a few tips.

1) If your going to do the Savvy Crossmemner first, remove the front driveshaft at the TCase yoke first. Otherwise, when you get to the SYE, it’s a pain to get to the four bolts since they are so far up and the crossmember is partially in the way.

2) have a drift to get the outeer C’s to line up with the inner C’s and you have to have the crossmember in at the same time. I made a drift out of an old rusty 10” nail and an angle grinder. pITA

3) when you are doing the SYE, have a good pair of snap ring pliers, small flathead screwdriver, small needle nose pliers, large flathead screwdriver and anything else you may deem helpful. 🤣 There are two snap rings and two lock rings to remove, and one lock ring to install (with the JB SS SYE)

4) the Currie angled trackbar relocation bracket ( that is such a mouthful to say) has a spacer that is a PITA to slide into the stock axle mount. Grind some material off one end to make it fit. Compliments to @starkey480 for this idea.

5) before you install the spacer in #4 above, install the upper bolt on the rear passenger side. Otherwise you may never get to it, and you may never get to it anyway.

6) spread out some old blankets under the rig if you don’t use a trolley or a lift. That way you can put all your tools in it and slide it under the Jeep and vice versa.

7) be patient. Take your time. Do it in stages.

8) my exhaust is going to interfere with my shock body and trackbar. That is still to come.

9) this is a no joke mod. I had never done more than change the oil on an auto 3 years ago. This has been a journey for me, a challenge, and many of you have inspired me. Thank you. I still have questions

driveshaft will be 19-19.25” long.
 
Some pics and commentary of the JB SS SYE Install.

These guys helped me get off the first snap ring.
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You don’t need to remove this piece. It’s connected to the oil pump at the base. The whole piece comes off with the half case, ideally. Be careful if you disconnect it from the oil pump.

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Inside the 231
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The insides of the 231 on the bench. You remove a lock ring here, slide off the gears and move them over to the JB shaft. The JB shaft is 11.25”, the stock is 17.25”. Wow, this is where that extra 6” comes from. Remarkable!
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I thought this lock ring was difficult.
After all was said and done I had a leak under one of the bolts in the output shaft cover. I forgot to torque the bolt down. Hopefully all will be fine when I take a look tomorrow.
 
I have two questions:

1) how do I measure my pinion angle without a driveshaft? Where do I place the digital angle finder?
2) there’s a bolt hanging down from the TCase that is almost touching the crossmember (1-2mm). Is this ok? The crossmember has a notch that looks like it was made to accommodate this bolt, however, the notch is too far driver. Maybe @mrblaine can help. (Savvy tummy tuck, 05’)
 
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I have two questions:

1) how do I measure my pinion angle without a driveshaft? Where do I place the digital angle finder?
2) there’s a bolt hanging down from the TCase that is almost touching the crossmember. The crossmember has a notch that looks like it was made to accommodate this bolt, however, the notch is too far driver. Maybe @mrblaine can help. (Savvy tummy tuck, 05’)
I can answer number one, in order to measure the pinion angle of the axle, you want to put your angle finder on either one of the machined flats next to the diff cover, those are holes for a spreader and exactly 90 degrees off the pinion angle. So just take that angle and subtract 90! Another way is place your angle finder on the axle yoke, so it’s 90 degrees to the driveshaft. That will tell you the angle as well if you subtract 90.
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I personally wouldn’t worry about pinion angle until you get the DS, as there is no way to set it right without it in there. People are often under the concept that the axle points directly at the TC output, when actually with a shaft in it is a couple degrees higher as the middle of the DC joint is actually where you point it.
 
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I can answer number one, in order to measure the pinion angle of the axle, you want to put your angle finder on either one of the machined flats next to the diff cover, those are holes for a spreader and exactly 90 degrees off the pinion angle. So just take that angle and subtract 90! Another way is place your angle finder on the axle yoke, so it’s 90 degrees to the driveshaft. That will tell you the angle as well if you subtract 90.
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I personally wouldn’t worry about pinion angle until you get the DS, as there is no way to set it right without it in there. People are often under the concept that the axle points directly at the TC output, when actually with a shaft in it is a couple degrees higher as the middle of the DC joint is actually where you point it.
Thank you. So, when all is said and done, I want the angle on the axle to be the same as the angle on the driveshaft? Or better, the angle on the driveshaft should be a couple degrees higher than at the axle? Correct?

Right now I just preliminarily aimed the pinion at the TCase yoke. Final should be coming soon. I think I'm too low right now as it is.
 
Thank you. So, when all is said and done, I want the angle on the axle to be the same as the angle on the driveshaft? Or better, the angle on the driveshaft should be a couple degrees higher than at the axle? Correct?

Right now I just preliminarily aimed the pinion at the TCase yoke. Final should be coming soon. I think I'm too low right now as it is.
That is correct. You want the reading with it sitting on the driveshaft to be equal to the axle yoke. I would run 0 degree difference, but yes you can usually have the axle a degree or so pointed down. How you have it now will get you very close, close enough for mock up until DS gets there.
 
My suggestion would be to put the pinion angle at 13* to start. That is where mine is at now, and you'll have a bit longer ds, so that is good. When you get your new ds, the pinion angle needs to be close to the ds angle. Some say to make the pinion angle 1* lower than the ds angle to account for axle torque.
 
My suggestion would be to put the pinion angle at 13* to start. That is where mine is at now, and you'll have a bit longer ds, so that is good. When you get your new ds, the pinion angle needs to be close to the ds angle. Some say to make the pinion angle 1* lower than the ds angle to account for axle torque.
That sounds good, I may be a bit steep now. I'm at 17.5*. Axle does look a bit far back. Right now I can't do anything with the rear trackbar till I get the exhaust out of the way. It's right in the way of the trackbar, almost touching the shock body, and hitting the rear bumper. I think I'll remove it where the cat bolts up to the muffler, then get everything else bolted up and take it to the muffler shop. Hoping they can also weld my Currie angled rear trackbar relocation bracket to the axle. I cleared the paint there so hopefully easy, but the hard brake line is right there too.

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