The 10mm spring isolators are considered coil spacers. Use them in conjunction with the factory spring isolators. This will give you the advertised 2.5" of lift. OME springs are only 2" lift springs.

The rear track bar bracket will be required unless you have or get an adjustable rear track bar.

Yes, you can use washers for the TC drop, but be prepared to get longer bolts if you need to drop it more than 1/2".
Aha, good point, longer bolts. Thanks. Awesome
 
Ok, OME 2" 933 and 942 on order. Got at Northridge4x4 for $155.50/pair, free s/h, no tax, for total of $311.00. That's a steal. They've got a coupon right now for 5% off. Use code SHARK ATTACK. For the coil spring isolators F and R and the rear track bar alignment bracket it was another $72. So the total was only $383. Soon I'll be up and running these with Bilstein 5100's.

I'll need some help on how to install the rear track bar bracket if it doesn't come with any, which I doubt it will, or maybe I can figure it out!
 
Ok, OME 2" 933 and 942 on order. Got at Northridge4x4 for $155.50/pair, free s/h, no tax, for total of $311.00. That's a steal. They've got a coupon right now for 5% off. Use code SHARK ATTACK. For the coil spring isolators F and R and the rear track bar alignment bracket it was another $72. So the total was only $383. Soon I'll be up and running these with Bilstein 5100's.

I'll need some help on how to install the rear track bar bracket if it doesn't come with any, which I doubt it will, or maybe I can figure it out!

The track bar relocation bracket is pretty self explanatory. You will need to drill a hole for one of the bolt mounts which is a PITA. Other than that, it's pretty simple. Nice deal on the springs! Next time you buy from Northridge talk to Ryan. He works for you and gives the best deals he can. I picked up my Advanced Adapters SYE kit for $189 shipped.
 
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Here is what the TB bracket looks like installed.
20170408_120707.jpg
 
So I will lose 3/4" in the belly when I drop the Transfer Case. How do I get that back? Is it the whole TT, SYE, Drive Shaft, MM, et. al.?
 
So I will lose 3/4" in the belly when I drop the Transfer Case. How do I get that back? Is it the whole TT, SYE, Drive Shaft, MM, et. al.?

Every TJ reacts differently when you lift them. Some don't get any vibes, some do. My TJ is sensitive, so after I add the 2.5" lift, I got horrible drive line vibes, so I needed the TC drop to cure it. A MML would have helped, but I didn't want to do that. If I were you, I would install the new lift springs and take it for a drive to see if you get vibes. It will be obvious if you do. You may not need to drop the TC at all, or may only need a couple washers to drop it a bit.
 
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Good advice, because I don't want a fatter belly if I can help it! Thanks.
 
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Jack it up, put it on jack stands at the frame, leave jack under diff, remove tires, remove shocks, loosen trackbar, loosen control arms, lower jack, springs literally fall out. It is super easy and quick.
Can I lift from the differential to slip my jack stands under the frame or do I need to lift from the frame on each side when I do this? 932 and 944 OME Springs and hardware coming today and Saturday, so maybe Sunday I can install...Considering that my BB boost was advertised at 2" and I only got 1 1/8 in the F and 1 1/2 in the R I'm supposing I had some spring sag on the stock. So hopefully these OME will be the dramatic change I'm looking for...
 
Can I lift from the differential to slip my jack stands under the frame or do I need to lift from the frame on each side when I do this?
I know you have probably done this before, but since you asked the question I'm gonna give you the full quick rundown about using a jack and jack stands. If you already know, maybe it'll help someone else who doesn't.

Not only can you lift the Jeep from the diff/axle, but that's where you should place the jack. It would be very unsafe to lift from the frame on one side, place jack stands on that side, then jack up the other side to place jack stands.
Obviously the front diff is offset, so jacking the axle up from it makes the axle tuck on the drivers side and droop on the passenger side a little. It's perfectly fine to use the front diff, but you can also put the jack on the axle tube just to the side of the front diff. It's a static situation, so the forces are so small that you won't hurt anything on the Jeep. But the biggest thing to keep in mind is don't hurt yourself. A Jeep is replaceable/fixable, but it's a lot harder to fix you once a couple thousand pounds falls on you.

Another general rule of thumb about woking on Jeeps - do not rely on the jack to support the weight of the vehicle for extended periods of time. Always use jack stands.
 
I know you have probably done this before, but since you asked the question I'm gonna give you the full quick rundown about using a jack and jack stands. If you already know, maybe it'll help someone else who doesn't.

Not only can you lift the Jeep from the diff/axle, but that's where you should place the jack. It would be very unsafe to lift from the frame on one side, place jack stands on that side, then jack up the other side to place jack stands.
Obviously the front diff is offset, so jacking the axle up from it makes the axle tuck on the drivers side and droop on the passenger side a little. It's perfectly fine to use the front diff, but you can also put the jack on the axle tube just to the side of the front diff. It's a static situation, so the forces are so small that you won't hurt anything on the Jeep. But the biggest thing to keep in mind is don't hurt yourself. A Jeep is replaceable/fixable, but it's a lot harder to fix you once a couple thousand pounds falls on you.

Another general rule of thumb about woking on Jeeps - do not rely on the jack to support the weight of the vehicle for extended periods of time. Always use jack stands.
Thanks so much, safety first! I need to hear that. Also, probably put a tire down uunder once removed for extra insurance.
 
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While we are talking safety, it should be mentioned not to use a crow bar when installing a suspension lift. When I was younger, I didn't know they made a tool to compress the springs so I used a crowbar. I got it done, but almost knocked myself out once when it slipped and popped up right beside my head. Missed me by about 3 inches.


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They are labeled for a reason. One spring is slightly taller to compensate for the TJ lean. TJ's tend to sit low on the right rear, so OME tries to compensate for that. For the rear, the "A" spring goes passenger, "B" spring driver. For the front, it's the opposite.
P1050085.JPG
 
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OK, great! I did not check this post before I did it but I got the B side on the right one. I can't seem to get the track bar lined back up on the front near the axle on the passenger side. How do I get this lined back up sufficiently to get the screwback in?
 
OK, great! I did not check this post before I did it but I got the B side on the right one. I can't seem to get the track bar lined back up on the front near the axle on the passenger side. How do I get this lined back up sufficiently to get the screwback in?

While still up on the stands I usedI used a ratchet strap to move it laterally and the jack to move it vertically to get it finally lined up.
 
Ooh, plan, I'll give it a shot
 
You could also put it back on the ground and turn the steering wheel one direction or the other(with the tires back on of course) and line it up.
 
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OK, finished up! Will get pics up when I can, but I will say one thing right now, I took her for a spin, and we are talking way better driving. this ride has BilStein 5100 shocks and OME 933 and 942.