The radiator exploded a couple miles prior to that picture
05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
It was those fucking springs.
Hehehe, and I've got MC fenders & flares on my Jeep.... Must be why I haven't got it running yet. It's cursed.
I’m not running double rate springs! On that note, maybe JKS progressive rate. If I go that far, I might as well get Currie 4” and call it a day.
I actuallly like the look of MC fenders and flares, just skeptical overall. I think I’d get about 0.5” out of them and could run 35’s. If I HiLined I could run 37’s.
I believe I got around 1.5" out of mine over the stock fenders. In theory, you could get more out of them though. The point of contact on mine is the rear of the tire in the area where the battery tray lives, my axle is likely pushed further back than yours would need to be since I was fighting clearance issues with the Dana 44.
That said I would love to go with a GR Highline as well. The only issue I have is to really maximize the up/down travel I think I'd need to go to a Coilover. Currently, my fox 11's are set roughly to a 60/40 split favoring up travel.
I can't wait to follow along on your next round of upgrades. One thing to keep in mind is once you get up to 35's you're right on the edge of needing a PSC system and since you play in the rocks you'll likely want one. I will say though that the PSC surprised me and actually made the jeep better on road. I was nervous I would lose all feel and have no return to center but I was pleasantly surprised with the final results. The hydro arm actually soaks up bumps on road much better than the stock setup and my jeep no longer wants to dart when I hit a pothole.
Airjunky
TJ Enthusiast
Having run MC fenders for almost 7 years now, in terms of quality, they're not a bad product. They fit well, were easy to install and have proven to be very durable. Everything mounted easily on the inner fender and I was able to add a PSC reservoir without any fitment issues.
However, the problem with MC is their marketing. In spite of what they claim, from what I've experienced, my tires contact the fenders in roughly the same place they did when I had stock fenders and flares. In the picture below, you can see that at full stuff they just kiss bottom of the 6" flare. This is when running 1" bump-stop and a 35" tire. With the stock fenders, the contact point was basically the same place. The only advantage I saw here was I'm not going to eat up the MC fender. I did with the stock fender.
I don't have any contact in the rear of the front inner fender, at full turn and stuff. I suspect though that this is due to the fact that I run Reid knuckles, which pushes the wheels out a little.
I knew going into purchasing them that the MC fenders weren't a highline. I was okay with that. Largely, because I didn't think I'd need a highline. This was one of many cases were I was wrong. That said, if I could go back, I'd spend the money once, cut the hood, and run highlines. If I had done this the first time, I wouldn't have to spend money for fenders twice.
However, the problem with MC is their marketing. In spite of what they claim, from what I've experienced, my tires contact the fenders in roughly the same place they did when I had stock fenders and flares. In the picture below, you can see that at full stuff they just kiss bottom of the 6" flare. This is when running 1" bump-stop and a 35" tire. With the stock fenders, the contact point was basically the same place. The only advantage I saw here was I'm not going to eat up the MC fender. I did with the stock fender.
I don't have any contact in the rear of the front inner fender, at full turn and stuff. I suspect though that this is due to the fact that I run Reid knuckles, which pushes the wheels out a little.
I knew going into purchasing them that the MC fenders weren't a highline. I was okay with that. Largely, because I didn't think I'd need a highline. This was one of many cases were I was wrong. That said, if I could go back, I'd spend the money once, cut the hood, and run highlines. If I had done this the first time, I wouldn't have to spend money for fenders twice.
Build for your end game, if 37’s are where you’re going to end up, why build for 35’s?
IIRC the tests of MC clearance that @toximus and @jjvw did, there are minimal up clearance gains up to a 33” tire. After that there is no gain and there never was any additional back gain.
I’ve been looking at the GR for awhile. 3” up and 3” back was always attractive. I don’t have any Reid knuckles to push my axle forward, so they are appealing, not to mention the aesthetic appeal to me.
I hadn’t considered the need for a PSC steering kit. Pricey.
The good thing is I have till early next year to make a decision. My 33’s have 9-10/32’s, and I really love wheelin 33’s with the big boys and completing obstacles they can’t do, but if I’m going to keep wheelin trails like that the Jeep is telling me it needs bigger tires.
Maybe just me, but I've come to the conclusion that, for me, doing an LJ on 35s isn't worth it. I wheel with a mixed group of folks, who run everything from 33" to 37" tires. Those on a 92" wheelbase (1st Gen Broncos) run 35 - 37" tires. Those on a 93" wheelbase (TJs) run 33 - 35".
At 103", I'm the odd duck. Due to their better break over angle, they all can typically get over tight obstacles much better than I can. Mine will do steeper climbs easier and safer. On 35s, I can't get over the obstacles the Broncos on both 35" and 37" tires can, without breaking something.
The real major advantage I have over them is my suspension can flex more, meaning I don't carry a tire like they do. That said, if I was going to spend the money on my LJ again, I'd just do it right, i.e. build it on 37s.
This beautiful LJ on 37’s was wheelin with us that day. He just moved here from Sacramento 2 months ago. His home trail was The Rubicon. He was happy to get out of CA! An LJ on 37’s is ‘just right’ IMO.
and my tests showed all I needed to keep a 35 out of a metalcloak fender on stock suspension was a 1/2” bumpstop.
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If I had the time and money I’d fab a new chassis and have an LJ on 40’s.
Just start with the Tracer stretch LJ chassis, then add the LS1, an Atlas, et al.
https://genright.com/products/tracer-jeep-wrangler-lj-complete-rolling-chassis.html
Anything bigger than 37" and I'd probably just want a buggy!
I've dreamed of this one, but with a starting price of $45K:Just start with the Tracer stretch LJ chassis, then add the LS1, an Atlas, et al.
https://genright.com/products/tracer-jeep-wrangler-lj-complete-rolling-chassis.html
I could not be like this...
and would have to be like this...
I watched a few episodes of Ian. He didn’t do any dirty work. Not a speck of dirt or grease in that garage. Just a bunch of cutting and welding. Fun builds though. Go Trump! Just had to say that in my build thread.
Pricey, but I'd easily place this upgrade well above the RubiCrawler. Although I ordered the cylinder assist, I didn't install it. The combination of the new steering box and pump is more than enough for my 35" tires. Like @Alex01 said, the on-road manners are fantastic, and off-road it has zero issues in the rocks.
FWIW, here's the new PSC box next to my old Mercedes box. Just a little bit beefier!
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