BesTop in the 6" or 7" wide version. They were good flares for what they were. I never took pictures the day I bought it but it had 33X14x15 TSL Boggers on it so the PO had put these wide flares on. The Jeep had NEVER been Off-Road when I bought it. The lady that owned it just liked the looks of Boggers.

Thanks.

I can't imagine TSLs just for looks, that's crazy!
 
The more I think about it I wouldn’t do 35s on your setup as is. You’re shocks will no longer be the limit to up so you’ll have to extend the bumps like crazy and leave 1.5” of shock shaft on the table taking your shocks from ~9.5” travel to 8” travel shocks in the front. I get these numbers from my setup where a roughly 11” shock is the limit to my up which fits 35s and stock fenders pretty perfectly. I did have to trim a lot of the fender that hangs down past the hood line as well but I left enough mounting holes for the flare.

Highlines would be a fine way to support the 35s if you are happy with your travel as is. In fact it may be less of a can of worms since your pinion angle and all that won’t get messed with knowing you had trackbar issues in the rear already.
Highline total ~$1300

Or the Currie lift option which gets you more travel in addition to the 35s.
$450 for springs
$200 for longer shocks
Total is around $700

Another note is you’ll get by with 4.56 and 35s on the road just fine. But you’ll stall far more often on the trail and find yourself wishing for deeper. I’ve been getting by with the same combo but it took about 4 wheeling trips to decide to do something about it.

For brakes I am more than happy with BMB pads up front and disc in the rear. I don’t have a big brake kit and I can lock up my 35s all day.
 
The more I think about it I wouldn’t do 35s on your setup as is. You’re shocks will no longer be the limit to up so you’ll have to extend the bumps like crazy and leave 1.5” of shock shaft on the table taking your shocks from ~9.5” travel to 8” travel shocks in the front. I get these numbers from my setup where a roughly 11” shock is the limit to my up which fits 35s and stock fenders pretty perfectly. I did have to trim a lot of the fender that hangs down past the hood line as well but I left enough mounting holes for the flare.

Highlines would be a fine way to support the 35s if you are happy with your travel as is. In fact it may be less of a can of worms since your pinion angle and all that won’t get messed with knowing you had trackbar issues in the rear already.
Highline total ~$1300

Or the Currie lift option which gets you more travel in addition to the 35s.
$450 for springs
$200 for longer shocks
Total is around $700

Another note is you’ll get by with 4.56 and 35s on the road just fine. But you’ll stall far more often on the trail and find yourself wishing for deeper. I’ve been getting by with the same combo but it took about 4 wheeling trips to decide to do something about it.

For brakes I am more than happy with BMB pads up front and disc in the rear. I don’t have a big brake kit and I can lock up my 35s all day.
Yep, I'm pretty set on staying with 33's for now, getting the front MCE fenders to replace my OEM that don't look so good, and enjoy the small benefits they give over OEM. I can still add an Antirock, Savvy Gas Tank Skid, Savvy Tranny and oil pan skid. Appreciate your thought about this.
 
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The more I think about it I wouldn’t do 35s on your setup as is. You’re shocks will no longer be the limit to up so you’ll have to extend the bumps like crazy and leave 1.5” of shock shaft on the table taking your shocks from ~9.5” travel to 8” travel shocks in the front. I get these numbers from my setup where a roughly 11” shock is the limit to my up which fits 35s and stock fenders pretty perfectly. I did have to trim a lot of the fender that hangs down past the hood line as well but I left enough mounting holes for the flare.

Highlines would be a fine way to support the 35s if you are happy with your travel as is. In fact it may be less of a can of worms since your pinion angle and all that won’t get messed with knowing you had trackbar issues in the rear already.
Highline total ~$1300

Or the Currie lift option which gets you more travel in addition to the 35s.
$450 for springs
$200 for longer shocks
Total is around $700

Another note is you’ll get by with 4.56 and 35s on the road just fine. But you’ll stall far more often on the trail and find yourself wishing for deeper. I’ve been getting by with the same combo but it took about 4 wheeling trips to decide to do something about it.

For brakes I am more than happy with BMB pads up front and disc in the rear. I don’t have a big brake kit and I can lock up my 35s all day.

You mention that your more likely to stall with more shallow gears. Is this why I stall with 3.73s with foot off clutch and brake ,up steep obstacles and have to apply gas to keep this from happening?
 
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You mention that your more likely to stall with more shallow gears with bigger tires? Is this why I stall with 3.73s with foot off clutch and brake ,up steep obstacles and have to apply gas to keep this from happening?
Most likely! With a low enough crawl ratio ive seen guys able to go up waterfalls without their foot on the gas at all.
 
You mention that your more likely to stall with more shallow gears. Is this why I stall with 3.73s with foot off clutch and brake ,up steep obstacles and have to apply gas to keep this from happening?
I have 4.88's with an atlas geared to 5:1. With that combo, it is nearly impossible to stall in 1st gear. The jeep will try and climb until the tires break traction no matter what it is pointed at. Before I swapped out the np231 with the atlas and changed the gears from 4.10 to 4.88, it was a night and day difference offroading. I still had to dance around with the clutch and gas but way less than with the 4.10 gearing and made crawling much more enjoyable.

If I was to do it again though I would likely gear to 5.13 or even more likely 5.38
 
Yep, I'm pretty set on staying with 33's for now, getting the front MCE fenders to replace my OEM that don't look so good, and enjoy the small benefits they give over OEM. I can still add an Antirock, Savvy Gas Tank Skid, Savvy Tranny and oil pan skid. Appreciate your thought about this.

33" tires will do 90% of the trails in WA that I have ever been on. When you are ready to step up to 35" tires it just means you can now do a few more trails. There are some trails in the Rimrock area that you could do but you might have to winch where taller tires wouldn't. But there are spots even I was winching with my 38"(Actual 36.5") tires. Don't rush it and just enjoy your rig. I can't wait to finally get mine back on the road so we can go wheeling. Plus you still need to come over so we can move your upper spring pads.
 
33" tires will do 90% of the trails in WA that I have ever been on. When you are ready to step up to 35" tires it just means you can now do a few more trails. There are some trails in the Rimrock area that you could do but you might have to winch where taller tires wouldn't. But there are spots even I was winching with my 38"(Actual 36.5") tires. Don't rush it and just enjoy your rig. I can't wait to finally get mine back on the road so we can go wheeling. Plus you still need to come over so we can move your upper spring pads.
Good to know, and yeah, I’m excited to come by and meet you, wheel, and move those uppers. Any day working on the Heep or wheelin the Heep is a good day!
 
If I can make it thru the Rubicon on 33's, I can't see a reason to go any bigger. I just don't need to run trails any tougher than that.
 
Only a few can drive well enough on 33’s to not need 35’s! 😜
Or, just have friends along that are on 35's who can drag your shit out of trouble, lol!
31.webp

In my defense, that was on 32's and a 2.5" lift. Don't judge!