Sheesh, IDK if I can do the clutch. I’m freakin out. I have a transmission Jack, but this is a big job. IDK what to do though, I’ve already started taking apart. Freakin lot of stuff and will take awhile. I am super busy at work too, so not sure if I can get everything done anytime soon, if I can do it at all. Thinking about selling the damn thing. This is getting old.
Stop freaking out. You'll be fine. Where are you, in the process?

Drop the skid, pull the t-case. Easy enough, you've done all that before. Now go to the next layer. You'll have to pull the cross member, and support the transmission. Look for any wire connection and disconnect them. IIRC, the crank position sensor and the O2 sensor both are attached to the bell housing. There is also a speed sensor and tcase position sensor that attached to the transmission. Those will need to be taken off too.

Now, start removing bolts. When you get to the top of the bell housing, lower the jack that is holding the transmission up a bit. This will allow the engine to pivot down so you can reach the bolts. Once all the bolts are free, give the transmission a wiggle. Its probably on there pretty good. There are a couple alignment pins that like to get sticky. It should start to move. Slide it back, little at a time. You'll get it off. Once you're in, the clutch is actually really easy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrDmoney and Irun
Sort of, my job is work all the time and get off whenever you can.
I was only thinking I could drive up there and give you a hand with the Clutch on a Saturday or something.

I'm sure you can handle it. Just throwing it out there.
 
Stop freaking out. You'll be fine. Where are you, in the process?

Drop the skid, pull the t-case. Easy enough, you've done all that before. Now go to the next layer. You'll have to pull the cross member, and support the transmission. Look for any wire connection and disconnect them. IIRC, the crank position sensor and the O2 sensor both are attached to the bell housing. There is also a speed sensor and tcase position sensor that attached to the transmission. Those will need to be taken off too.

Now, start removing bolts. When you get to the top of the bell housing, lower the jack that is holding the transmission up a bit. This will allow the engine to pivot down so you can reach the bolts. Once all the bolts are free, give the transmission a wiggle. Its probably on there pretty good. There are a couple alignment pins that like to get sticky. It should start to move. Slide it back, little at a time. You'll get it off. Once you're in, the clutch is actually really easy.
As @Mike_H said, it's not a big deal. Given the other work you've done, you can do this. It does help to have a second set of hands, in the event you need to support and wiggle the transmission at the same time, to get it back on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Stop freaking out. You'll be fine. Where are you, in the process?

Drop the skid, pull the t-case. Easy enough, you've done all that before. Now go to the next layer. You'll have to pull the cross member, and support the transmission. Look for any wire connection and disconnect them. IIRC, the crank position sensor and the O2 sensor both are attached to the bell housing. There is also a speed sensor and tcase position sensor that attached to the transmission. Those will need to be taken off too.

Now, start removing bolts. When you get to the top of the bell housing, lower the jack that is holding the transmission up a bit. This will allow the engine to pivot down so you can reach the bolts. Once all the bolts are free, give the transmission a wiggle. Its probably on there pretty good. There are a couple alignment pins that like to get sticky. It should start to move. Slide it back, little at a time. You'll get it off. Once you're in, the clutch is actually really easy.
I removed the crossmember and TCase last night.

Next I have to put it in N, remove the shifter, disconnect negative battery cable, slave cylinder, starter, sensor, breather tube (if there is one), anything else connected to transmission, support transmission and start removing the transmission bolts and dust shield. I’m wondering if my RMS leak has contaminated the flywheel. IDK. When I get inside I am hoping it will make sense.right now I read about it, but it doesn’t make sense.

In all this I still have a TCase leak. Well, I suppose it’s the TCase. Guess it could be the transmission. Im going to replace the outer seal on the front output shaft. Jeep will be down awhile I guess.

Do I need to raise the Jeep up on jack stands high enough to roll the transmission out from under? Or just work in it from under the Jeep? I don’t understand some of the instructions, like where to apply grease and I don’t want to contaminate stuff. Just a big learning curve. I’m using the FSM and an old post with crappy photo bucket pics from Jeep forum. Thanks for vote of confidence.
 
I was only thinking I could drive up there and give you a hand with the Clutch on a Saturday or something.

I'm sure you can handle it. Just throwing it out there.
That’s nice of you. This Saturday is questionable and the next is out. I think I’m going to be doing it in stages in the evenings. I do have my twin sons to give me a hand if it gets dicey. They’re busy on T, W, and R nights till 8:30pm. I’m probably just whining, mostly bc I don’t understand all the terminology. Thank you, and if I get in a jam I’ll call
 
I removed the crossmember and TCase last night.

Next I have to put it in N, remove the shifter, disconnect negative battery cable, slave cylinder, starter, sensor, breather tube (if there is one), anything else connected to transmission, support transmission and start removing the transmission bolts and dust shield. I’m wondering if my RMS leak has contaminated the flywheel. IDK. When I get inside I am hoping it will make sense.right now I read about it, but it doesn’t make sense.

In all this I still have a TCase leak. Well, I suppose it’s the TCase. Guess it could be the transmission. Im going to replace the outer seal on the front output shaft. Jeep will be down awhile I guess.

Do I need to raise the Jeep up on jack stands high enough to roll the transmission out from under? Or just work in it from under the Jeep? I don’t understand some of the instructions, like where to apply grease and I don’t want to contaminate stuff. Just a big learning curve. I’m using the FSM and an old post with crappy photo bucket pics from Jeep forum. Thanks for vote of confidence.
I generally put it on jack stands. Up as high as you're comfortable with. The added height of a transmission jack means you sometimes need more room to roll it out. Plus, more room is always better!
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and Apparition
I removed the crossmember and TCase last night.

Next I have to put it in N, remove the shifter, disconnect negative battery cable, slave cylinder, starter, sensor, breather tube (if there is one), anything else connected to transmission, support transmission and start removing the transmission bolts and dust shield. I’m wondering if my RMS leak has contaminated the flywheel. IDK. When I get inside I am hoping it will make sense.right now I read about it, but it doesn’t make sense.

In all this I still have a TCase leak. Well, I suppose it’s the TCase. Guess it could be the transmission. Im going to replace the outer seal on the front output shaft. Jeep will be down awhile I guess.

Do I need to raise the Jeep up on jack stands high enough to roll the transmission out from under? Or just work in it from under the Jeep? I don’t understand some of the instructions, like where to apply grease and I don’t want to contaminate stuff. Just a big learning curve. I’m using the FSM and an old post with crappy photo bucket pics from Jeep forum. Thanks for vote of confidence.
I did mine sitting on the tires. The transmission jack I used just got in the way, honestly. I ended up setting the transmission down on a piece of cardboard and sliding it out.

Don't let all the terminology get in the way. Get under there and look at what you're trying to do and what is stopping you from doing it. Anything connected to the transmission needs to come off. Go slow, in case you missed something. Move it, look around. if it looks clear, move it further and look around.

The RMS won't have contaminated the flywheel. Your friction surface is on the opposite side of where the RMS is leaking. Just forget about the RMS at this point. Focus on the Transmission.

Also what kind of leak do you have? The Transfer case is ATF. Its red and thin like water Not sure what fluid the 6speed uses, but the manual box in my jeep (NV3550) is not red and its thicker. If you didn't have the leak before, and now you do...what was the last thing you changed? You put the 4:1 reduction in. That's where I'd start looking for a leak. But...Put that aside and worry about the transmission.

I'm available to facetime (or whatever video chat you prefer) in my evenings if you're working on it in your afternoons. If you get stuck, give me a ring and show me what you're stuck on. I might be able to help.
 
  • Like
Reactions: DrDmoney and JMT
I did mine sitting on the tires. The transmission jack I used just got in the way, honestly. I ended up setting the transmission down on a piece of cardboard and sliding it out.

Don't let all the terminology get in the way. Get under there and look at what you're trying to do and what is stopping you from doing it. Anything connected to the transmission needs to come off. Go slow, in case you missed something. Move it, look around. if it looks clear, move it further and look around.

The RMS won't have contaminated the flywheel. Your friction surface is on the opposite side of where the RMS is leaking. Just forget about the RMS at this point. Focus on the Transmission.

Also what kind of leak do you have? The Transfer case is ATF. Its red and thin like water Not sure what fluid the 6speed uses, but the manual box in my jeep (NV3550) is not red and its thicker. If you didn't have the leak before, and now you do...what was the last thing you changed? You put the 4:1 reduction in. That's where I'd start looking for a leak. But...Put that aside and worry about the transmission.

I'm available to facetime (or whatever video chat you prefer) in my evenings if you're working on it in your afternoons. If you get stuck, give me a ring and show me what you're stuck on. I might be able to help.
It’s an ATF leak. Red. It’s been an issue since the 4:1 conversion. I’m pretty confident it’s the TCase leaking. I’ve already cracked the case twice, cleaned everything spic and span and tried to seal with light layer of RTV. No leak at either sensor or breather. The other possibilities are harder to tell bc they all have ATF on them. Detente is at 20ft/lbs. Could be shift selector, could be outer seal, could be the case. ATF is all over on the driver side, on the transmission mount, slave cylinder, up on the tub. I thought it was fine bc I went for a drive after and just one small drop. Then I went on the highway to and from 60 miles at 70mph and rest stuff all over.

I’m running Redline MTL in the transmission. I can’t remember what color it is.

I ordered the outer seal and will just do it on the bench. I really think the case is fine and leak is somewhere else.
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: DrDmoney and Alex01
I did mine sitting on the tires. The transmission jack I used just got in the way, honestly. I ended up setting the transmission down on a piece of cardboard and sliding it out.

Don't let all the terminology get in the way. Get under there and look at what you're trying to do and what is stopping you from doing it. Anything connected to the transmission needs to come off. Go slow, in case you missed something. Move it, look around. if it looks clear, move it further and look around.

The RMS won't have contaminated the flywheel. Your friction surface is on the opposite side of where the RMS is leaking. Just forget about the RMS at this point. Focus on the Transmission.

Also what kind of leak do you have? The Transfer case is ATF. Its red and thin like water Not sure what fluid the 6speed uses, but the manual box in my jeep (NV3550) is not red and its thicker. If you didn't have the leak before, and now you do...what was the last thing you changed? You put the 4:1 reduction in. That's where I'd start looking for a leak. But...Put that aside and worry about the transmission.

I'm available to facetime (or whatever video chat you prefer) in my evenings if you're working on it in your afternoons. If you get stuck, give me a ring and show me what you're stuck on. I might be able to help.
I ditched my transmission jack, because it was a pain to fasten the trans to it. I use one of these for all kinds of jobs under the Jeep. It does require two people though, to work well. I even made a cradle, out of wood, and used it to steady a rear 44 for installation once. The handle obviously has to be removed, which is easy to do. Sadly, like everything else, the price has gone up. I bought mine a few years ago for $100

https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mike_H
I ditched my transmission jack, because it was a pain to fasten the trans to it. I use one of these for all kinds of jobs under the Jeep. It does require two people though, to work well. I even made a cradle, out of wood, and used it to steady a rear 44 for installation once. The handle obviously has to be removed, which is easy to do. Sadly, like everything else, the price has gone up. I bought mine a few years ago for $100

https://www.harborfreight.com/500-lbs-capacity-hydraulic-table-cart-61405.html
I use an ATV jack for stuff like that. Gets down low, and it's got a nice, stable base. In fact, I've never used it for an ATV! I just wish it lifted higher. Its about an inch shy of getting the gas tank skid.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun
I did a clutch on my 1987 YJ when I was 19 with minimal tools and a regular floor jack. You'll breeze through this. Don't overthink it and replace all wear items in the area while it's apart.

I'm sure in the next year or so I'll be doing my Jeep's clutch. I believe it's still the OEM part/I'd rather do it when I want to than have it fail when I need it the most.
 
I did a clutch on my 1987 YJ when I was 19 with minimal tools and a regular floor jack. You'll breeze through this. Don't overthink it and replace all wear items in the area while it's apart.

I'm sure in the next year or so I'll be doing my Jeep's clutch. I believe it's still the OEM part/I'd rather do it when I want to than have it fail when I need it the most.
Tell me about it, Moab is right around the corner and my life just got seriously complicated and I'm trying to find another Jeep. The other Jeep may have to go on the backburner. I was about to pull the trigger on one in Prineville, OR, a white Sahara with the 32rh and a hardtop (it's two best features) and 307 gears, a feature that needs fixing no matter what ratio. After Moab.
 
Doing this as others said isn't a BIG DEAL. You can do it. You have my number so call if you get in a bind.
Thanks for vote of confidence. I think right now my biggest worry is detaching the shifter! LOL I'm just going to go one step at a time and little bit each day.
 
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01 and Wildman
Tell me about it, Moab is right around the corner and my life just got seriously complicated and I'm trying to find another Jeep. The other Jeep may have to go on the backburner. I was about to pull the trigger on one in Prineville, OR, a white Sahara with the 32rh and a hardtop (it's two best features) and 307 gears, a feature that needs fixing no matter what ratio. After Moab.

Nope you need to buy that second Jeep now so it can go to Moab also...

Don't sweat the small stuff. Taking the shifter out is easy. And unless you are going to work on the transmission you can just slide it back towards the rear axle and leave it under the Jeep. Just make room to drop the flywheel out.
Here's to wishing you lived closer as I could loan you all the tools you need.
 
Nope you need to buy that second Jeep now so it can go to Moab also...

Don't sweat the small stuff. Taking the shifter out is easy. And unless you are going to work on the transmission you can just slide it back towards the rear axle and leave it under the Jeep. Just make room to drop the flywheel out.
Here's to wishing you lived closer as I could loan you all the tools you need.
Why do I need to remove the flywheel? I was just going to use a bearing puller for the pilot bearing and emery cloth 180 grit on the flywheel if it needs it.

EDIT: Nevermind, I think you're just saying move the transmission back far enough so I can work where the flywheel is, unless I'm confused. Correct me if I'm not understanding.
 
Why do I need to remove the flywheel? I was just going to use a bearing puller for the pilot bearing and emery cloth 180 grit on the flywheel if it needs it.

I thought you were going to do the rear main seal also? It might not need to come off but I just like to look at what I am doing. My other thing is that I am use to a solid seal so you have to remove the flywheel.

So ignore my advice.. :oops:
 
I thought you were going to do the rear main seal also? It might not need to come off but I just like to look at what I am doing. My other thing is that I am use to a solid seal so you have to remove the flywheel.

So ignore my advice.. :oops:
Well, for now I'm going to skip the RMS. Thank you, because you always know more than me, so I'm the one learning here from the master mechanic.

I wish I could get the RMS done, it's always messy around the TCase because of oil and now ATF. I'm tired of that crap!
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman