Just caught up and looked at your picture of the front shocks. When you say you’re only getting 4.2” of up, are you including the little bumper at the bottom of the shock? Because that compresses and should be counted in your uptravel
 
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Just caught up and looked at your picture of the front shocks. When you say you’re only getting 4.2” of up, are you including the little bumper at the bottom of the shock? Because that compresses and should be counted in your uptravel
After I took it for a ride it settled in at 4.6” consistently. No, I didn’t count the little bumper. I’ll measure again tomorrow. Good to know. Thanks! It’s big man, way up there just to get in. I’m actually shocked, but I know how much lift I’m getting. I’ll share all that tomorrow.
 
Yeah, the MCE’s give that impression. They also provide meaningful clearance. It’s not only the removal of the stock fender lip, but cutting the fender so far back toward the hood ends up giving 1.25” of additional up clearance. Too bad I can’t use any of it with the Fox shocks.

I’ll post some #’s tomorrow. Are your springs giving you right at 4”?
I need to measure for sure, but it's close. Now that I've settled in on shocks, I need to pull my springs again and check bump stops. My fronts look decent by the tape measure, at 5.5 up and 4 down. The rears are gonna require some work. Probably bar pin eliminators to shift them in their travel.
 
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After I took it for a ride it settled in at 4.6” consistently. No, I didn’t count the little bumper. I’ll measure again tomorrow. Good to know. Thanks! It’s big man, way up there just to get in. I’m actually shocked, but I know how much lift I’m getting. I’ll share all that tomorrow.

If you weren't so SHORT it wouldn't be that hard to get into. :):LOL:
 
Not gunna touch that one there buddy.

Yep we need to get those upper spring buckets moved for ya.
Not all things are short...😉

So, when moving the rear uppers, what do you do with the trackbar mount at the frame? Why not just outboard? Or does that create more trackbar issues?
 
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You can relocate the uppers without moving the frame side trackbar mount.
Isn’t it going to be really close? It’s enough trouble already removing the trackbar bolt.
 
Bolt is below the bracket...It might hit the spring.

1623945672236.png
 
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Bolt is below the bracket...It might hit the spring.

View attachment 259852
Exactly. Just curious in that situation how much of a PITA it is to remove it. U could always remove the axle side to get the droop you need to remove springs. I’m not even sure that much adjustment of the upper mount would be sufficient. Why not just outboard?
 
Exactly. Just curious in that situation how much of a PITA it is to remove it. U could always remove the axle side to get the droop you need to remove springs. I’m not even sure that much adjustment of the upper mount would be sufficient. Why not just outboard?
I always pull the axle side. I think the frame side has only come off three times since I've owned it. Even with the perch in factory location, doesn't the bolt hit the spring?

Regarding outboard, that is a whole lot more work than just moving the upper perch. It's the last "mod" to the Jeep before it's done. My bumps line up almost perfect after the relocation.
IMG_20210323_173106663.jpg
 
Exactly. Just curious in that situation how much of a PITA it is to remove it. U could always remove the axle side to get the droop you need to remove springs. I’m not even sure that much adjustment of the upper mount would be sufficient. Why not just outboard?
I might be missing something, what does outboarding have to do with the track bar mount location and moving the spring perches?
 
Here are the new measurements and clearances

Setup
33’s, 4” Currie, 4” Fox Savvy TJ Valved Shocks

Measurements
Front Coils 16 3/4” (4 3/4” Lift)
Front Shock Travel 4 7/8” Up 4 5/8” Down
Rear Coils 13 1/4” (5 1/4” Lift)
Rear Shock Travel 5 3/4” Up 3 1/3” Down

Clearances
Rear bumper 23”
Rear corners 29 3/4”
Frame at Rear Control Arm Mount 21”
Frame at Front Control Arm Mount 20 1/8”
Savvy Transfer Case Skid 18 7/8”
Front Bumper 24 7/8”
Gas Tank Skid 18 3/8”
 
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As Mike said the bracket just fits and the trackbar bracket doesn't move. As for the bolt I can't say but then as Mike pointed out he doesn't pull his that often.

One good thing is that I have my upper spring buckets sitting here not being used. Now I'd drilled out the threads in the cup but I think we'd be able to install a nutzert into them also. So we can remove your buckets and then use mine to get the stuff done a little faster. Look up all the threads we can on the subject before had just to help. I don't remember how long it took me to get mine out but it was done in less than a day.
 
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Its a piece of cake, really. My process was get a good reference to frame height, sitting on its own weight (I used the two rear corners). Then I pulled the springs and supported the frame. Cut the buckets out...some quick work with a 4" cutting wheel on a side grinder probably a half hour, max. You'll also need to cut the long end flush to the bucket (notice in my picture the u-channel that wraps the frame is about even with the bucket). Clean the paint off the frame and put the perches in place with clamps. I dropped it back down on the springs to make sure my heights were relatively close (I'm within an 1/8", IIRC). Pull the springs again and check bump alignment. adjust if necessary. When they look good, burn em in and paint.
 
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Its a piece of cake, really. My process was get a good reference to frame height, sitting on its own weight (I used the two rear corners). Then I pulled the springs and supported the frame. Cut the buckets out...some quick work with a 4" cutting wheel on a side grinder probably a half hour, max. You'll also need to cut the long end flush to the bucket (notice in my picture the u-channel that wraps the frame is about even with the bucket). Clean the paint off the frame and put the perches in place with clamps. I dropped it back down on the springs to make sure my heights were relatively close (I'm within an 1/8", IIRC). Pull the springs again and check bump alignment. adjust if necessary. When they look good, burn em in and paint.

I seem to remember it taking me more than a 1/2 hour per side to cut them out but I honestly don't remember now just how long it took me.

And mine don't look anything like yours.

20200515_085618.jpg
 
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I seem to remember it taking me more than a 1/2 hour per side to cut them out but I honestly don't remember now just how long it took me.

And mine don't look anything like yours.

View attachment 259869
Mine are Dorman replacements. My factory originals were rotten. The important parts are the same...
 
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I always pull the axle side. I think the frame side has only come off three times since I've owned it. Even with the perch in factory location, doesn't the bolt hit the spring?

Regarding outboard, that is a whole lot more work than just moving the upper perch. It's the last "mod" to the Jeep before it's done. My bumps line up almost perfect after the relocation.View attachment 259853
As per that bolt on the rear frame trackbar mount, it will hit the spring in stock location, so I flipped it awhile back. I remove the frame side often bc that’s the end for adjustment in the Core 4x4 bar. If I relocate the uppers, I may still be able to get a wrench on it.

Your relocation looks good. I’m tempted to just go straight outboard. Don’t know why I’d relocate unless I plan to stay there.