33's - Is this what I need?

[MikekiM]

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Doing THAT ^^^ is something I would regret.

Thanks! I’ll look at the Currie one. Doing more research on 4.88 vs 4.56… 4.88 is still going to be fine on the highway? I do drive the highway quite often, it’s a daily

This was one of the reasons I opted for 4.56. I am on the highway quite a bit and felt the slightly lower rpm would be better. Can't lie.. It seems perfect.
There is a long bridge that connects the mainland to the barrier island.. it's about two miles long and has a steady rise of about 1000 feet to the center. I can drive that grade in fifth at 65 with no lugging or other drama. Step on the gas it still has pull. Butt dyno confirms 4.56 was the correct call for me.

 

[JMT]

Thanks! I’ll look at the Currie one. Doing more research on 4.88 vs 4.56… 4.88 is still going to be fine on the highway? I do drive the highway quite often, it’s a daily

Yeah, 2748 is in the power band. If your true tire size is a bit smaller than a 33” then it will be higher. But I wouldn’t worry about that. I would worry if it was 2500 or 2600.

P.s. it’s essentially what I had with the 6-speed. I don’t think anyone can tell you why they recommend gearing the 6-speed and the 5-speed the same.

No one can tell you whether you’ll have driveline vibes at those gear ratios.

 

[Austin O.]

I feel like I have seen a lot more about 4.56s rather than 4.88s, both on this forum and other places…. I don’t know much about gearing and definitely not sure what exactly I want, but want to learn and figure that out. Why are there split opinions on 4.56/4.88?

 

[deadbeat son]

I feel like I have seen a lot more about 4.56s rather than 4.88s, both on this forum and other places…. I don’t know much about gearing and definitely not sure what exactly I want, but want to learn and figure that out. Why are there split opinions on 4.56/4.88?

I ran 4.56s with 31s on my ‘02 with 4.0 and NV3550. I liked that combination and had no issues on the highway, including running I70 from Denver to Moab and back. I originally went with 4.56 in plans for eventually going to 33s, but I liked the 31/4.56 combination enough that I didn’t want to go with larger tires.

 

[JMT]

I feel like I have seen a lot more about 4.56s rather than 4.88s, both on this forum and other places…. I don’t know much about gearing and definitely not sure what exactly I want, but want to learn and figure that out. Why are there split opinions on 4.56/4.88?

Go to Grimm Jeeper and compare the AX-15 and NV3550. Then ask why some forum members recommended 456 for the AX-15 and 488 for the NV3550.

 

[Jamison C]

I feel like I have seen a lot more about 4.56s rather than 4.88s, both on this forum and other places…. I don’t know much about gearing and definitely not sure what exactly I want, but want to learn and figure that out. Why are there split opinions on 4.56/4.88?

If you live in a place like the Midwest where it’s flat then I think 4.56 would be just fine. I live in the mountains with lots of grades and hills and 4.88 would have been ideal for me.

We always recommend gears with highway in mind. Don’t let the 3k RPMs scare you. That’s the happy/efficient spot for the 4.0.

 

[Moglocker]

If you live in a place like the Midwest where it’s flat then I think 4.56 would be just fine. I live in the mountains with lots of grades and hills and 4.88 would have been ideal for me.

We always recommend gears with highway in mind. Don’t let the 3k RPMs scare you. That’s the happy/efficient spot for the 4.0.

Exactly,I have 32rh 4.56 and 35s,when we go out west (5000 lbs)with rtt and rack-fridge etc .i pull mountains in 2nd gear with the cruise control on at 3000 rpm,man it has all kinds of power there.

 

[Artsifrtsi]

I just recently made a post about regearing for the 31s that have been on my tj for the past couple years. I have 3.07s currently and was thinking about going up to 4.10s. I said I don't plan to go to 33s for a while, but I started thinking more and decided that I for some reason need 33s... so here I am... And just for fun and because people like pictures, here's a recent photo of my tj.

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- Still doing research on what tires I want specifically... currently have Kenda Klever MTs which I am happy with, I like the look, I might just get them in the bigger size

I would avoid the Klevers... they are probably one of the heaviest tires I've come across. I have 35x12.5x15 Mikey Thompson Baja Boss MT on my gladiator, a friend that we did a lift on his Gladiator has 33x12.5x17 Kleavers... his tires made my MT BBs feel light.

On my TJ I went with the Falken Wildpeak AT3w 33x12.5x15... very quiet, really lightweight, ride well, and are even good in the Alabama mud. (plus they are 3 peak weather rated and have 50k mile warranty))

 

[jjvw]

My choice for 4.56 over 4.88 wasn't influenced by Jerry at all. My local shop worked through it with me and since I wasn't planning to go to 35's I chose 4.56 based on that exercise. The shop know a lot more than I do, and probably a lot more than Jerry does.. though Jerry would never admit it.

As you said, we came to the conclusion there was no great difference between 4.56 and 4.88 unless the plan is to go to 35's. I have no plans or need to go to 35's.

All that said, I have zero regret

My choice for 4.88 with the 5 speed to push 33s was initially based on a possibility of running 35s in the future. I quickly realized this was a very nice gear ratio for 33s. When I eventually did install 35s, 4.88 was sluggish across the board and 5.13 became the goal. But then I changed to the 42rle with 5.38, which still isn't deep enough for 35s.

 

[jjvw]

Thanks! I’ll look at the Currie one. Doing more research on 4.88 vs 4.56… 4.88 is still going to be fine on the highway? I do drive the highway quite often, it’s a daily

I have an entire build thread about daily driving. 4.88, 5 speed, and 33s was the best combination the Jeep ever had for gearing and tire size.

 

[jjvw]

.... Why are there split opinions on 4.56/4.88?

The split opinions will tell you who is interested in performance vs those who parrot age old hobbled thinking that Jeeps are slow, poorly handling coal carts.

 

[BlueC]

I see old forest service roads probably once or twice a month. I'd love to get into some actual trails more often with slightly more technical stuff. Thanks for reminding me about the tailgate, I thought about that before, but forgot to put it in the post!

Here's my current list:

- BMB 1.25'' body lift
- Rough country 1'' motor mount lift (I know, I know, we don't like that brand... but does it really matter for a motor mount lift? Let me know. Its the cheapest option I could find)
- Freedom offroad 2.5'' lift springs (feedback on this choice please, don't know much about the brand, general consensus seems to be that spring brand doesn't matter like shocks do)
- JKS rear trackbar relocation bracket
- Zj tie rod
- I currently have Rancho RS5000X shocks, for 0-1 inch lifts. I think these are fine to keep, people say they long run?
- Still doing research on what tires I want specifically... currently have Kenda Klever MTs which I am happy with, I like the look, I might just get them in the bigger size
- Are my wheels fine for 33s? 15x8 jeep brand wheels, I don't know what the specific name is, I can figure that out if needed though.
- 4.56 gears - This is where I need the most suggestions/opinions. Do I buy new, do I look for axles with them already installed? (I have a 4.0, 5 speed manual). How feasible is it that I do the work myself? I really want to, I know I can, but is it really a good idea?

You imply you're on a tight budget here, and that you don't do any kind of hard wheeling, so I'll strip the requirements down for you. 1-you need a 2-3 inch spring lift, 2- get a 1-1.25 body lift, 3- use a 1" transfer case drop go with a 1" MML with the BL (no need for SYE, new driveshaft or control arms, yet), those are mandatory. Adjustable track bars front & rear are a little more optional, but highly recommended. The ZJ tie rod will add a little assurance, and quick disconnects will help out, but these are not mandatory.

For the gears, I recommend 4.10 or lower. I'm on 33's with 4.10s which have been fine, but I want lower. If you want to look for take out axles, 4.10s are decently common around us and 4.56s can be found. When I regear, I'll be going 4.88 or 5.13, so make of that what you will.

For the tires, 33x10.50 would be my choice on factory wheels. 10.50s will save width for turning and weight. As for the spare, you can get away with the stock carrier and hinges for a while, but I recommend getting reinforcements back there ASAP with 33"+. You will also probably need wider flares to keep the tires out of them at full stuff.

In case you're wondering, my ride currently sits similar to what I've laid out above, and I've never had issue off road, even at places like Uwharrie, but I don't push through rock gardens.

 

[deadbeat son]

You imply you're on a tight budget here, and that you don't do any kind of hard wheeling, so I'll strip the requirements down for you. 1-you need a 2-3 inch spring lift, 2- get a 1-1.25 body lift, 3- use a 1" transfer case drop (no need for MML, SYE, new driveshaft or control arms) those are mandatory. Adjustable track bars front & rear are a little more optional, but highly recommended. The ZJ tie rod will add a little assurance, and quick disconnects will help out, but these are not mandatory.

For the gears, I recommend 4.10 or lower. I'm on 33's with 4.10s which have been fine, but I want lower. If you want to look for take out axles, 4.10s are decently common around us and 4.56s can be found. When I regear, I'll be going 4.88 or 5.13, so make off that what you will.

For the tires, 33x10.50 would be my choice on factory wheels. 10.50s will save width for turning and weight. As for the spare, you can get away with the stock carrier and hinges for a while, but I recommend getting reinforcements back there ASAP with 33"+. You will also probably need wider flares to keep the tires out of them at full stuff.

In case you're wondering, my ride currently sits similar to what I've laid out above, and I've never had issue off road, even at places like Uwharrie.

Curious - why would you recommend a t-case drop over a MML? I have no vibes with 5.13s and a MML with oem driveshaft and CAs, and the cost of it wasn't significantly different than the cost of a t-case drop. The MML is < $100, you don't give up any clearance with it, and you don't have to adapt the shroud to a repositioned radiator.

 

[BlueC]

Curious - why would you recommend a t-case drop over a MML?

Simplicity and cost. I know the areas he might ride in since he's local, and with 33s with 3" lift and basic driving ability, he will rarely drag the case skid.

The MML is < $100, you don't give up any clearance with it, and you don't have to adapt the shroud to a repositioned radiator.

You bring up a good point with that one since he is doing a BL too. Honestly, it's probably about the same either way, with the MML having a clearance advantage and future proofing.

 

[deadbeat son]

Simplicity and cost. I know the areas he might ride in since he's local, and with 33s with 3" lift and basic driving ability, he will rarely drag the case skid.



You bring up a good point with that one since he is doing a BL too. Honestly, it's probably about the same either way, with the MML having a clearance advantage and future proofing.

I looked at RC prices for low buck options. The MML is $79 and the t-case drop kit is $69. I know which I'd prefer to couple with a BL for the extra $10 outlay.

 

[BlueC]

@Austin O. I see you changed your location, I assume for school. If we could work it out, like we can meet at Uwharrie sometime, I'll let you drive mine down the road to see what 33 and 4.10s are like.

 

[BlueC]

I looked at RC prices for low buck options. The MML is $79 and the t-case drop kit is $69. I know which I'd prefer to couple with a BL for the extra $10 outlay.

I'd make that choice too.

 

[Austin O.]

You imply you're on a tight budget here, and that you don't do any kind of hard wheeling, so I'll strip the requirements down for you. 1-you need a 2-3 inch spring lift, 2- get a 1-1.25 body lift, 3- use a 1" transfer case drop go with a 1" MML with the BL (no need for SYE, new driveshaft or control arms, yet), those are mandatory. Adjustable track bars front & rear are a little more optional, but highly recommended. The ZJ tie rod will add a little assurance, and quick disconnects will help out, but these are not mandatory.

For the gears, I recommend 4.10 or lower. I'm on 33's with 4.10s which have been fine, but I want lower. If you want to look for take out axles, 4.10s are decently common around us and 4.56s can be found. When I regear, I'll be going 4.88 or 5.13, so make of that what you will.

For the tires, 33x10.50 would be my choice on factory wheels. 10.50s will save width for turning and weight. As for the spare, you can get away with the stock carrier and hinges for a while, but I recommend getting reinforcements back there ASAP with 33"+. You will also probably need wider flares to keep the tires out of them at full stuff.

In case you're wondering, my ride currently sits similar to what I've laid out above, and I've never had issue off road, even at places like Uwharrie, but I don't push through rock gardens.

Thank you, super helpful, definitely the route I’m thinking

 

[Austin O.]

@Austin O. I see you changed your location, I assume for school. If we could work it out, like we can meet at Uwharrie sometime, I'll let you drive mine down the road to see what 33 and 4.10s are like.

Yeah, for school. I’d definitely be interested sometime. Thanks, as I get closer to looking at what exactly I want to do and then actually committing to it, I’ll let you know!

 

[Austin O.]

One more question - I’m going to need new carriers, right? What do I need to know about that? Lockers?