A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

[Irun]

Try this guy.

Look at the knuckles I pulled out. None of the ball joints I've ever removed were easy like the ones in his video. Mine usually involve heat, a big hammer, and lots of cussing. This one took me 20 minutes just to remove the rusted and seized cotter pins.

 

[Irun]

Housing is bare, with the exception of the center section. Surprisingly, the upper control arm bushings came out easily. Started on the housing clean up and will stop here, until the center section is out.

 

[xXDavidCXx]

What coating are you going to use?

I treated mine with por15 base layer and then their top coat paint.

 

[Irun]

Iron Rock lower control arm mounts and tie rod flip brackets are on. Not pretty welds, but they are solid. Next up is the track bar bracket Reinforcement and Johnny Joints for the upper control arm.

 

[mrblaine]

Mine had the oversize joints. Blaine told me to add a million dimples with a punch and install oem. It worked quite well. My tire still hasn't fallen off.

+ 609 or 638

 

[mrblaine]

Look at the knuckles I pulled out. None of the ball joints I've ever removed were easy like the ones in his video. Mine usually involve heat, a big hammer, and lots of cussing. This one took me 20 minutes just to remove the rusted and seized cotter pins.

If the cotter pins are rusty, just hit the nut with a big impact. Cuts the pins and the nut spins right off.

 

[SkylinesSuck]

Is that ball joint service kit actually useful at all? I think I used like 1 thing out of it on the Cutty 1 time, but anticipate needing it for the Jeep at some point down the road

 

[mrblaine]

Iron Rock lower control arm mounts and tie rod flip brackets are on. Not pretty welds, but they are solid. Next up is the track bar bracket Reinforcement and Johnny Joints for the upper control arm.

View attachment 424614

View attachment 424615

You are running a bit cold, you need a hood you can see out of and you've not figured out how to brace yourself for a steady path without having to reset for a short weld. And, you have a bit too much tip movement.

 

[Irun]

You are running a bit cold, you need a hood you can see out of and you've not figured out how to brace yourself for a steady path without having to reset for a short weld. And, you have a bit too much tip movement.

I have a good hood, but bracing myself and consistency is definitely my issue. I did turn the heat up on the other side and it was a little better. Practice is something that I just need to do more of!

 

[Irun]

Cut into the stock upper control arm mount and tacked in the JJ barrel. Now I need to take my time and work my way around, one weld at a time. My plan is to alternate welds, so the mount doesn't deform from to much heat.

 

[Irun]

I just couldn't get in any rhythm with the welding. They are solid, just not pretty. Done with the housing and ready to move onto the Re-gearing.

 

[OldBuzzard]

They look like Mopar welds, should blend right in.

 

[Irun]

They look like Mopar welds, should blend right in.

In retrospect I probably should have practiced more. I bought a new Miller 211 welder a while ago, to replace a HF 110 machine I'd been using for years, and this was my first time welding with 220. After the fact, I realized I made several very stupid mistakes. One was having a fan blowing on me while I was welding. That meant I was blowing the gas away, which is just not smart at all!

 

[PurpleTJAZ]

Housing is bare, with the exception of the center section. Surprisingly, the upper control arm bushings came out easily. Started on the housing clean up and will stop here, until the center section is out.

View attachment 423785

I have a HP30 sitting in my garage since January. I need to get working on it this summer.

 

[Woodrow]

I just couldn't get in any rhythm with the welding. They are solid, just not pretty. Done with the housing and ready to move onto the Re-gearing.

View attachment 424788

View attachment 424789

Welding is harder than it looks (for me, anyway). I assume you will cut the stock sway bar link attachments off to clear steering? Also what is the purpose of the plate on the front of the trackbar mount (extra beef just because or fixing a specific issue)?

 

[Irun]

Welding is harder than it looks (for me, anyway). I assume you will cut the stock sway bar link attachments off to clear steering? Also what is the purpose of the plate on the front of the trackbar mount (extra beef just because or fixing a specific issue)?

The stock link attachment will be cut. The front track bar bracket is for reinforcement when doing a PSC cylinder assist. It's item #20 in the parts list here:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ion-instructions-using-black-magic-kit.46340/
See step #13

 

[Woodrow]

The stock link attachment will be cut. The front track bar bracket is for reinforcement when doing a PSC cylinder assist. It's item #20 in the parts list here:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...ion-instructions-using-black-magic-kit.46340/
See step #13

View attachment 425161

Makes perfect sense. Thx!

 

[Irun]

Ring gear is installed on the e-locker and setup bearings have been made. Started with the factory pre-load shims, at .065, and the pre-load was only 8 inch lbs. Moved to .062 and pre-load is at 15 inch lbs. I'll stop there and install the carrier to check backlash.

For the record, the correct pinion bearing part numbers for my '99 HP30 were:

Inner -
Race = HM88610
Bearing = HM88649

Outer -
Race = 02820
Bearing = 02872

 

[Wildman]

Looks good and I like the pre-load you got. I know how attention to detail you are so I'm sure it'll be a great setup.

 

[Irun]

Looks good and I like the pre-load you got. I know how attention to detail you are so I'm sure it'll be a great setup.

I'm in no hurry and while it's been a long time since I did a re-gear, the basics are the basics

- pre-load
- backlash
- pattern

Then adjust as necessary to get it done. It is tedious work, but no more so than other jobs. On the plus side, I finally got to use the clam shell bearing puller that has been sitting in a case for years unused. It's insane how easy these make pulling bearings!