OP
The instructions are certainly wrong. Even though I have a torque wrench for inch lbs, I'm not sure I've ever used it. I generally just snug them up and then back off a little.
A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!
- Thread starter Irun
- Start date
From my many chats with the folks at Warn when I did many hub kit installs. What you trying to achieve is about 0-5 ft lbs of preload on the bearings. The initial 50 ft lbs to seat is foot pounds. I don't know that a rotation test is valid since how much and what type of grease you use affects that. As does how fast you spin it and how hot it is when you are doing the work.
After the initial seating load and backing that off, take the spindle nut socket and crank the inner nut in by hand using no tools. Push the tang washer on, line up the holes on a pin or flip it over to do so. Go tighter on the inner if a small bit is needed to line up a hole.
After that, torque the outer to the 125 or whatever they call out. That will preload the bearings more due to the V threads having some slop that gets removed and moves everything against the bearings.
I did many that way without issue.
Suppose you found yourself in a situation where the stub shaft is sticking out a little too far. So that it doesn’t rotate when the driveshaft is rotated unless pressure is applied to it. Any tips for getting it back in without taking everything apart again?
I was referencing one of the later steps of the Yukon hub (07) installation. The washer and snap ring. Irun gave a tip for pulling the axle shaft out just enough to get the snap ring on. Unfortunately I just noticed I have the opposite problem on one side. The axle shaft is out too far somehow.
If the stub is too long, that is one thing. If the V seal is missing, that is another. Which?
I don’t believe any seals are missing. I think I just don’t have the inner axle shaft all the way into the differential far enough for the splines to engage fully.
Fully anneal the 6061 (or buy it annealed, not T6 tempered) bend it while its still soft and ductile, then give it the T6 heat treatment at the local heat treating shop. Done as a batch, its a cheap sequence.
I was just confused. Well, I still am confused, but I used to be too!
I was thinking that turning the front driveshaft by hand would cause the axle shafts to both rotate the same. When the driver side didn’t rotate as much or at all, I assumed there was a problem. I’m probably just trying to find problems or making new ones while I’m waiting for the rest of my parts to arrive.
Not that I saw. You said (and I suggest in bold):
"The only way you can do those tight bends is in a 5000 series or similar alloy (NOT IN MY EXPERIENCE, SINCE YOU COULD DO THE BENDING ON THE 6061 IN THE "T0" CONDITION (SOFT) AND THEN RESTRAIN AND TEMPER IT TO THE T6 HIGHER STRENGTH AND HARDNESS CONDITION). That means they are about half as strong as 6061 T6 (YIELD STRENGTH OF 6061 T6 IS MINIMUM 35KSI, 5052 H34 IS A MINIMUM OF 26KSI. HALF WOULD BE 17.5KSI...AND THOSE ARE MINIMUM YIELD STRENGTH VALUES, NOT ACTUAL). Not something you want for a bumper that might see rocks. They advertised it as 6061 T6 and there is not anyway possible with those bends." (I personally have been responsible for large quantities of bent 6061 that was later given a solution anneal and T6 temper to provide the properties of 6061 T6 in the final product form)."
I only saw you say that 6061 T6 will crack so you can only use lower strength alloys. If we're talking about manufacturing and the selection of materials, knowing that you can sequence the production of the part, including welding, machining, bending, forming, annealing and tempering (in this case) is not common knowledge to most gear heads unless they have a back ground in metallurgy or prototype manufacturing experience. I'm careful about making claims of false material advertising because I don't know every possible manufacturing method currently available and cost effective.
OP
Finished the steering and transmission cooler lines.
OP
I replaced the pump reservoir with a spare I had, it was leaking, and kept the stock box for now. If it gives out on me, it will get a PSC box, like the LJ. Blaine gave advice on how to sort out the fittings, which I just stuck with the 3/8" (-6AN) for now.
The 16" cooler is in, so all I'd need to do later is swap the -6AN fittings for the -8AN set I have in the box. Overall, I'm very happy with the entire setup (steering and transmission coolers). It's clean and done the way it should be. That said, it was a PIA to get everything right!
I was also able to get the new A/C condenser and Mopar radiator installed. I still need to connect the new hard line to the condenser, but I'm almost ready to put fluids back in it for the first time in 5 weeks.
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Not that it should matter now but for future reference and anyone else following along, those drilled 90 degree fittings are not good for flow rate, they are very restrictive in a high flow system. Bent tube is much better when you get a better pump.I replaced the pump reservoir with a spare I had, it was leaking, and kept the stock box for now. If it gives out on me, it will get a PSC box, like the LJ. Blaine gave advice on how to sort out the fittings, which I just stuck with the 3/8" (-6AN) for now.
The 16" cooler is in, so all I'd need to do later is swap the -6AN fittings for the -8AN set I have in the box. Overall, I'm very happy with the entire setup (steering and transmission coolers). It's clean and done the way it should be. That said, it was a PIA to get everything right!
I was also able to get the new A/C condenser and Mopar radiator installed. I still need to connect the new hard line to the condenser, but I'm almost ready to put fluids back in it for the first time in 5 weeks.
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OP
It does matter, because others should know. My choice was based on the fact that it was going on a stock pump. If it was going on something like a PSC pump, I'd install something like the brazed fitting you do. The gradual bend of that is way less restrictive than the abrupt 90° bend of the one I used!
BTW, can I order that fitting on the website? I looked, but didn't see it available.
We don't too many parts separately but I can get that handled for you in a week or so. Do you want it in -6 and then get another later in -8?
OP
If possible both. That way I can address the current fitting, for peace of mind, and have one for the upgrade I know I'll be making in the near future. No hurry on my end for either, and thanks!