I also use ear pro to keep spatter from getting in the ear. Not pleasant.
nothing compares to HEARING your skin sizzle and pop
I also use ear pro to keep spatter from getting in the ear. Not pleasant.
I also use ear pro to keep spatter from getting in the ear. Not pleasant.
Couple of things I've thought of that might be helpful.
Auto dark hoods have sensors that detect a certain amount of light that triggers the shade. This isn't always an arc. The lights in your garage, the sun, grinding sparks etc. will set off the sensor. This can be a problem if you're not welding. The battery is what gets the shade going but the solar panel getting light from the arc is what keeps it going. A problem with that is if your hood is laying around with the sensors exposed then it will keep triggering the sensors & drain the batteries. If you know you're not going to be welding anytime soon, do yourself a favor and take the batteries out. Most hoods use CR2450 & I like to keep a couple extra with my welding gear.
Your MIG gun shouldn't be rolled up too tight. There's a metal liner inside and even though it's flexible, it can easily get a kink. They're replaceable, but it's not a quick process to change them out.
Get you a pair of MIG welding pliers which is kinda like a multitool for welding. Its great for cutting excess wire off, has serrated jaws for cleaning out the spatter on your nozzle, & it also has cut outs to remove the nozzle & contact tips. MIG Pliers
Also I ordered one of these to make welding under the Jeep easier so hopefully I'll have some feedback soon. Leather welding hood
Other topics I'm thinking of: plug & slot welds, open root welds, stick welding (SMAW), oxy/fuel & plasma cutting, spark testing, TIG welding (GTAW) & the basics of looking at your welds for defects.
I carry a leather hood very similar to that one in the rig. Works very well on the trail, and takes up very little room when stored.
How does it secure to your head so that the lens doesn't move around?
There is a velcro strap which goes around the back. It’s also fairly snug on my big noggin, so it doesn’t move around much at all.
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There is a velcro strap which goes around the back. It’s also fairly snug on my big noggin, so it doesn’t move around much at all.
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There is a velcro strap which goes around the back. It’s also fairly snug on my big noggin, so it doesn’t move around much at all.
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Eventually I’d like to take a class and learn how to weld, but I’m exploring hiring somebody local to get my rocker panels patched sooner than later.
Correct me if I’m wrong but in this guy’s auto repair pics, shouldn’t he be doing butt joints and a full seam? I’d think that overlapping the patch and just tack welding is a recipe for more rust.
https://www.weldingservicesbyjay.com/projects
This should tell you everything you need to know about this guy's capabilities
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In body repair at the restoration side, there are a couple of methods that are pretty well acknowledged as being correct. One is the fully welded butted ends, then flanged and plug welds.
However, I have never seen the overlap style like that guy does with the patches and just short welds at the overlap.
If you study how the TJ is put together, it is mostly flange and plug welds.