All things welding
- Thread starter AirborneTexasRanger
- Start date
Gunnersmate
TJ Enthusiast
Lots pf Respect for the Marines these are the guys that make the Devil say oh shit not these guys again
OP
Gunnersmate
TJ Enthusiast
I always get a gloob welding vertical, I have tried pulling and pushing I have tried starting at the top and the bottom what give
Gunnersmate
TJ Enthusiast
Most of the time I get the dimes like in the second picture from earlier occasionally I get the Dimes like the first Picture looks like it was Tig'd
I generally get this when I weld vertical it looks paint with a Run in it
OP
Vertical up MIG needs speed. It also helps to have your gun aimed straight at the middle of the joint with a slight angle 10°-15° pointing upwards. The goal is trying to keep the arc towards the leading edge of the puddle. This will allow the arc to dig into the base metal & give the weld metal a place to go instead of falling out the back & dripping.
Gunnersmate
TJ Enthusiast
So point the Noz up a little in the middle of the weld and use more hand speed and push the bead uphill
OP
For a straight push with slight weaving , Yes. I recommend this method first so you get a sense of just how fast you need to move. Settings also play a big factor. You need slightly more volts & slightly less wire feed speed
I should mention that if you decide to weave (which moves slightly slower than a straight push) you need to move from one side to the other as fast as possible. The weld metal will naturally fall towards the lower edge of the puddle so you don't need to worry about it too much. Welding this way takes a lot of practice to get your timing just right
Last edited:
Well, if it touched the bottom of your oven, it actually was a welding event. It's got 240VAC going through it, and the bottom of the oven is grounded, so it would have been a short to ground. Did it hum/hiss/pop and spark?
It was a buzz that got progressively louder for a few seconds and then there was a flash of orange flame and smoke. From what I read up on blown elements that’s how it goes down. But the part in the pic that blew is/was suspended in the air; not touching anything. I don’t actually understand how it doesn’t short out all the time because it has metal brackets on it that connect it to the floor of the oven. I’m guessing the element doesn’t usually conduct well, and that resistance is what gets it so damn hot. But when it fails maybe the power arcs the gap and causes the blaze of glory like this.
Oh well - the new one is in and working! Now I need to do some intentional welding with my new Hobart!
Oh well - the new one is in and working! Now I need to do some intentional welding with my new Hobart!
OP
For standard welding coupons & some other fun weldable stuff
https://weldmetalsonline.com/?ref=4...xgO6fnk9qp88gJ9sw8_vQHRxCUUGS__hoCF4sQAvD_BwE
https://weldmetalsonline.com/?ref=4...xgO6fnk9qp88gJ9sw8_vQHRxCUUGS__hoCF4sQAvD_BwE
Gunnersmate
TJ Enthusiast
Same thing happened with my 5 year old whirlpool in my last house. Same exact description.
OP
We use that here at work on our engines. Mostly because its an effective way to bond dissimilar metals while maintaining the different properties of each metal.
Gunnersmate
TJ Enthusiast
Well I can see it now NCO said we need to weld this shit together lets find some E4's and give them some danger putty they will get it done and boom Explosion Welding was born " E4 now lets get back to our nap in the broom closet"
Last edited:
Those heating elements are actually a wire surrounded by a ceramic filler (electrical insulator) inside a steel (or alloy like inconel) outer liner. The liner isn't electrified so it doesn't need to be insulated from the support brackets. Failures are usually a failure of the ceramic allowing the internal conductor to short to the liner.
I have patch panels from Classic Enterprises coming today. They say their stuff comes uncoated, which is good. But I’m not ready to weld these in yet. Should I coat them with anything to keep them from rusting while I practice and get ready to use them?