What I would like is a way to carry one can of water outside the Jeep. I haven't figured that out in a way that I like yet. Aesthetics get in the way of that problem as well. I have a blue Jerry can that I like a lot.
Barbara Sylvanas do it all build
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What I would like is a way to carry one can of water outside the Jeep. I haven't figured that out in a way that I like yet. Aesthetics get in the way of that problem as well. I have a blue Jerry can that I like a lot.
The owner of that rig is on here. I thought for sure he said it sold. I'll have to ask him the next time I see him.
Yes!
Colorado is very much a 33s state. There are only a handful of places that will benefit from 35s. And even fewer that require larger, but there won't be much of a daily driver left.
He is 1/2 hour down the road from me on a good traffic day. It isn't a stretch to think that it won't be long before 33's are not as much fun as they should be not to mention that the only difference in 33's built correctly and running 35's, is a body lift and the difference in the cost of the tires.Yes!
Colorado is very much a 33s state. There are only a handful of places that will benefit from 35s. And even fewer that require larger, but there won't be much of a daily driver left.
I much prefer an overall light build, keeping it as light as possible, function over form, staying close to stock form. Too much gets going on in some builds and it loses that simple elegance. My .02c.
To the OP, going from 33's to 35's is not difficult, especially if you have done a good job setting up for 33's, If you go the route mrblaine hinted at, a 4" suspension lift and 33's, then all you are doing is adding a 1-1.25" body lift, upgrading the cable shifter if you haven't by that time, thinking about bigger brakes and tires, of course, and adjusting your front and rear track bars and control arms. Just make sure you re-gear at a ratio that can go either way.
OP
Aluminum, but your wheels are going to be part of the unsprung weight of your Jeep, so they're not being held up by the coil springs and won't affect your final lift. What you're most concerned about is sprung weight and how that will affect the amount of lift you have. For example, if you are running a rear spring that is rated at 150 in/lbs, then for every 150 lbs you add to the rear, the spring will compress 1 inch. So, when you do your springs you are aiming to get a final lift height and that means a balancing act with all the stuff we add to the sprung weight. Of course, when you're done, if you're not where you want to be you can add a spacer to get there.
ok So where are we?
35’s AT OR MT?
On 17” aluminum wheels for bigger brakes
32RH
4.56
SYE
Double Cardan DS
Dana 44 Rear
Dana 30 Front
4” lift
1” BL
Tummy Tuck
MML
TCase Cable shifter
What’s next on the list? Lockers?
35’s AT OR MT?
On 17” aluminum wheels for bigger brakes
32RH
4.56
SYE
Double Cardan DS
Dana 44 Rear
Dana 30 Front
4” lift
1” BL
Tummy Tuck
MML
TCase Cable shifter
What’s next on the list? Lockers?
OP
I was looking primarily at the ARB air locking lockers but I am open to suggestions
You’ll have to go elsewhere for a different opinion those are my choice too. Oh I forgot to add ORO Swayloc.
OP
When I get the time I'm going to add this little list you've compiled to the starting post. But yea I was going to go ORO after doing some reading.
OP
Wouldn't the problem with those be that they are electric so if you happen to submerge them they get fried?
If water was that kind of a problem, I would be in all kinds of trouble in other areas.