Brandon's Arles Blue TJ

@Apparition @NashvilleTJ , they really need to educate whoever is responding to their Q&A. Not the first time a company gave bad information on their own product.
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So if I understand correctly, 10awg is rated for 30-40A? So it really shouldn't be able to carry enough current to blow that fuse? But maybe it's carrying right at 40A and that's blowing it. But a 50A should carry the current but the issue would be with the wire before it would be with the fuse?

Sorry I somehow never saw you mentioned me and didn't see the updates until now. Wasn't intentionally ignoring you.
 
What if I put fittings into the compressor with a 3/8" barb, ran two 3/8" air lines along the intake tube, and then drill two fittings into the air box lid above the filter.
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Two fittings like this could be secured through and sealed with some RTV or other appropriate sealant. I would/could trim off the side that will be inside the air box to minimize airflow disruption, though I imagine it is minimal and not noticeable in any way. I wouldn't need to mount the filters on the other end because this would be above the air filter. I'm not sure what the filtration capabilities of the little sintered metal filters would be vs. the flat TJ air filter?
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Thoughts?

I've used similar barbs into my intake for the crank case vent. Just try to set it up so that the nut is on the outside of the tube so you don't have to worry about it working loose and falling into the intake. Not likely if done right - but best to keep it away from the inside of the tube for piece of mind.
 
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Running around Tahuya today. Noticed that at some point I've broken the zerk off my track bar. Should be fun to fix...
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Thanks Klay @Fluxor, most of the weight of the front was sitting on that corner of the skid after an unfortunate slip off a rock.
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I forgot about the compressor filter problem before going to Tahuya and it was super dusty. Hopefully I didn't fill the compressor full of dust. Just ordered the fittings and hose needed to do my relocation.
 
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I forgot about the compressor filter problem before going to Tahuya and it was super dusty. Hopefully I didn't fill the compressor full of dust. Just ordered the fittings and hose needed to do my relocation.

Can you blow it out any way?
 
You can't see much, the piston or something is right there. Hopefully all is good 🤞🏼 There's not a crazy amount of new dust under the hood. I'll be focusing on getting the carport built for the next little bit, so I should have it all fixed before I run it again. Luckily it didn't kick on much. I only used the lockers a hand full of times and it only runs for a second when you engage them. And sometimes not at all if there's enough pressure to activate.
 
Forgot to mention that my airbag light came on a few times in Tahuya. Horn still worked, so not sure if it's clock spring or not. It would go away after turning the ignition off and come back later. The first time it came on I had got extremely off-camber (like seriously think it would've flopped if I kept going!) from misjudging a hole. I kind of figured maybe there was some sort of rollover sensor, but then it came back after it went away that time. I need to scan it and see if there are any codes lingering in there.
 
Got my compressor filter relocation done this morning. Hopefully this will pull enough air to supply the compressor. With the engine off, you can feel it pulling air through the intake horn. The best fittings I could find for the air box side were bulkhead fittings with a push to connect on both sides. What I did to avoid anything breaking and getting into the intake was rip out the guts on that side and then scar up the threads to prevent the interior nut from backing off. It's 3/8 synflex line. Just using zip ties for now, but that may also be the permanent solution.
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Got my compressor filter relocation done this morning. Hopefully this will pull enough air to supply the compressor. With the engine off, you can feel it pulling air through the intake horn. The best fittings I could find for the air box side were bulkhead fittings with a push to connect on both sides. What I did to avoid anything breaking and getting into the intake was rip out the guts on that side and then scar up the threads to prevent the interior nut from backing off. It's 3/8 synflex line. Just using zip ties for now, but that may also be the permanent solution.
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Clean install. Nice work.
 
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Thanks, the hose was a little more rigid than I was expecting so the loop to the driver's side fitting didn't work like I planned. It's got a bit of side load on the fitting so hopefully it will hold up. If not, I can switch that side to a straight fitting.

Just hit it with a little heat from a heat gun. That will soften it enough to let it move. But take it very easy on the heat or it will kink or collapse.
 
I decided to go out and see if the heat gun would work. It's been only running for about a second or so before it turns off and then won't turn back on for about 5-10 seconds. I just kept doing one second bursts and clicking the trigger a bunch and got it to work somehow. I adjust that line a bit and it's got less side load on the fitting now. I think that should work better.

Still plan to get the gun replaced, but at least I got it to work for this project.
 
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