Building a diesel powered RHD TJ Wrangler (Picture Heavy)

AidenC said:
Im still trying to figure out what would be needed to pair my stock 32rh to the engine
Click to expand...
Can you give more details? Are you just worried about the mating the engine to the transmission or are you trying to figure out the wiring, accessories, motor mounts etc?

Can you post all the details about your TJ? I know it's 32rh 3-speed auto, but having the following would help:

  • Year
  • Engine
  • Front Axle
  • Rear Axle
  • Axle Gearing
  • Lift Kit (If any)
  • Tire Size
  • AC
I'll try to help out the best I can with recommendations. The 3-speed is going to be an interesting challenge because diesels are low RPM engines and they love gears, that said I think a 3-speed would be awesome as well. Gearing and tire size are going to be key to getting a diesel swap in your TJ to work well.

Thanks
Grant
 
  • Like
Reactions: AidenC
RustyAutoholicGuy said:
Can you give more details? Are you just worried about the mating the engine to the transmission or are you trying to figure out the wiring, accessories, motor mounts etc?

Can you post all the details about your TJ? I know it's 32rh 3-speed auto, but having the following would help:

  • Year
  • Engine
  • Front Axle
  • Rear Axle
  • Axle Gearing
  • Lift Kit (If any)
  • Tire Size
  • AC
I'll try to help out the best I can with recommendations. The 3-speed is going to be an interesting challenge because diesels are low RPM engines and they love gears, that said I think a 3-speed would be awesome as well. Gearing and tire size are going to be key to getting a diesel swap in your TJ to work well.

Thanks
Grant
Click to expand...
Its a 2001 with a dana 30 and 35, 31" KO2's, No lift yet but plan on a 1 inch body lift soon, and it has 3.77 gears. I'm not worried about the motor mounts and wiring as much as I am about mounting the Transmission to the engine. I just think that newly rebuilt 32 rh would match pretty well with a diesel engine and its tough as a rock.
 
AidenC said:
Its a 2001 with a dana 30 and 35, 31" KO2's, No lift yet but plan on a 1 inch body lift soon, and it has 3.77 gears. I'm not worried about the motor mounts and wiring as much as I am about mounting the Transmission to the engine. I just think that newly rebuilt 32 rh would match pretty well with a diesel engine and its tough as a rock.
Click to expand...
So I actually think you have 3.73 gears, I've never heard of 3.77 gears. But going with all that info you get the following:

c6wnkJe.png



These two charts give you an idea of two things. First chart is the overlap of each speed at a specific RPM for each gear. This gives you an idea on where your RPMs will be when your transmission shifts. This was the chart I didn't pay attention to when I installed my early model AW4 in my TJ which caused me so many issues, the drop from 3rd to 4th gear was too steep.

The second chart is your cruising RPM at a given speed. I focus on this chart because you want to be able to do at least 65mph minimum, though ideally 70mph would be better.

Looking at these two charts, I would not recommend a Kubota engine, you're looking at a useable RPM range of 1750 ~ 2250 rpm for an IDI engine and 1600 ~ 2400 for a DI engine. However a TDI engine which will REV to 4500rpm would work well with your 32RH. If you wanted to keep computers out of the mix, you could make a ALH TDI engine fully mechanically as well.

As for the adapter I would recommend the following:
TDC 205 JEEP 4L ADAPTER KIT

The kit is 1499 Canadian which comes out to about $1,170.95.

As for the engine I can get a 2000 ALH TDI engine from a junkyard around me for anywhere between $600 ~ $1000 depends on mileage and warranty.

If you want to go fully mechanical you will need the injection pump. You get them here:
https://www.hansautoparts.com/RebuiltALHMTDIPump.aspx
It's about $500 depending on the size you get, different sizes produce more power, also getting bigger injectors would give you a boost in power and torque as well.

There are other parts that I'm not including, turbo upgrade (if wanted), intercooler, hoses, motor mounts etc, but just getting you started with the engine, adapter, injection pump your looking at around $2800 on the high end but closer to $2200 on the low end if you shop around for the engine etc.

I know you have mentioned the Cummins R2.8, again great motor, years ago when Dirty Every Day first showed off the prototype R2.8 in Tube Sock that was the motor I wanted to use, but I don't have 8K for just the motor.

I hope this helps, feel free to ask any questions that you still have!

Thanks
Grant
 
  • Like
Reactions: BugoutJeep
RustyAutoholicGuy said:
Hey TJers,

After finding a set of Impact Orange half doors, I decided to also see if I could find some new seats for my diesel swap TJ Wrangler Project. I settled on a set of 2002 Apex Edition seats for my TJ. Bought the front and rear seats and had them shipped to my place from Novak Auto Parts. The seats were well packaged and I think they look great in my TJ. I like both the seating position and comfort of these seats compared to the stock seats my Wrangler came with. Still waiting on my transmission to transfer case adapter which I hope to get here before this weekend . . . I really need to get my TJ done for TJ Fest.

View attachment 222926

View attachment 222927

View attachment 222928

View attachment 222929

Here is the video if you want to watch it:

Thanks
Grant
Click to expand...
RustyAutoholicGuy said:
Hey TJers,

After finding a set of Impact Orange half doors, I decided to also see if I could find some new seats for my diesel swap TJ Wrangler Project. I settled on a set of 2002 Apex Edition seats for my TJ. Bought the front and rear seats and had them shipped to my place from Novak Auto Parts. The seats were well packaged and I think they look great in my TJ. I like both the seating position and comfort of these seats compared to the stock seats my Wrangler came with. Still waiting on my transmission to transfer case adapter which I hope to get here before this weekend . . . I really need to get my TJ done for TJ Fest.

View attachment 222926

View attachment 222927

View attachment 222928

View attachment 222929

Here is the video if you want to watch it:

Thanks
Grant
Click to expand...
Love the seats! How are they in terms of breathability? Have you had them in the summer sun yet, got hot/sticky at all?
 
Amancuso said:
Love the seats! How are they in terms of breathability? Have you had them in the summer sun yet, got hot/sticky at all?
Click to expand...
Well I completely missed this! I haven't had them long enough to even have them outside. I just got them at the beginning of February so to answer you question, no I haven't tried that out yet.

As just a general update . . . waiting on parts. I kind of wish I had installed my other AW4 but I honestly believe the Ford 6r80 will give me the best drivability out of my Kubota engine.

I'm hoping to get the rest of my parts this month so I can get my TJ on the road either late March or at the very least early April.

I swear once I get this build done, I might not even bother building my LJ Rubicon at this point, I might just wheel this rig for a year or 10.

-Grant
 
  • Like
Reactions: BugoutJeep and Tob
There's always something to do on a build. I'm not sure it ever goes away. I just finished most of my steering, suspension (good thing I didn't go with the 3" lift), gear change, super 35 kit, lockers, etc and it took me 2 months of just going to work and going to the garage and occasionally doing stuff that HAD to be done immediately around the house. I haven't even cut my hair because of lack of time and I'm getting close to being able to pull of a pony tail.

At least I'm back up driving and the wife and I are gonna do some fishing this weekend and it's SO NICE TO NOT BE IN THE GARAGE, though it might be necessary for it to be deemed a disaster zone.

My advise, is get it running and have fun until that itch just has to be scratched or something breaks. I've been eyeing that Atlas 2 or maybe 4, but there's no way for a year or 2 I'm gonna do it. I'm just hoping so hard I didn't screw something up and have to get back in the garage prematurely.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RustyAutoholicGuy
AidenC said:
How much longer do you expect this build to take you to finish the swap? That thing's gonna be an off-road monster with that Kubota and some lockers.
Click to expand...

I really just need the transmission to transfer case adapter and I'm golden. I have all the parts for my NP231, I have all the stuff for my interior and I know my intercooler system now works as well. Oddly enough this 6r80 is so much more efficient that there is a good chance I'll be able to turn up my fueling and boost even more than I have currently.

I only really need a locker in the front Dana 30 axle. My rear Dana 44 came with an LSD from Jeep and does fantastic while wheeling.

BugoutJeep said:
There's always something to do on a build. I'm not sure it ever goes away. I just finished most of my steering, suspension (good thing I didn't go with the 3" lift), gear change, super 35 kit, lockers, etc and it took me 2 months of just going to work and going to the garage and occasionally doing stuff that HAD to be done immediately around the house. I haven't even cut my hair because of lack of time and I'm getting close to being able to pull of a pony tail.

At least I'm back up driving and the wife and I are gonna do some fishing this weekend and it's SO NICE TO NOT BE IN THE GARAGE, though it might be necessary for it to be deemed a disaster zone.

My advise, is get it running and have fun until that itch just has to be scratched or something breaks. I've been eyeing that Atlas 2 or maybe 4, but there's no way for a year or 2 I'm gonna do it. I'm just hoping so hard I didn't screw something up and have to get back in the garage prematurely.
Click to expand...

I understand EVERYTHING you just said. I'm really wondering how much more garage work I'm going to be doing once I get my TJ done, this project is taken me WAY longer than I thought. I'm still bummed that I'm going to miss Moab this year as well, but it just wasn't ready, and honestly getting it running next month and being able to put a year of driving and trail miles on my diesel swap will allow me to enjoy Moab so much more next year for sure.

-Grant
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob and BugoutJeep
Hey TJers,

So I had a long discussion with my a few people about changing things with my TJ this past weekend, NO I'm not selling it ;) but changes are coming. My thing about Jeeps is overlanding however I don't want to overland in a Minivan (If you know you know).

While I was planning on building my LJ Rubicon for Overlanding, I'm now thinking about keeping it completely stock, the prices for LJs, especially Rubicons are going up and honestly anything I do to my Rubicon is going to be considered radical as well. Also I'm tired, this diesel swap has taken way more out of me then I care to admit and honestly I want out of my shop and off my property.

SO with that said, I'm going to start building my Kubota diesel swapped TJ wrangler into an overlanding rig. In a way this is the perfect rig for it just in terms of fuel economy, this thing with my old transmission setup barely used fuel, especially compared to the 4.0l that came with it.

I have the following parts here or on route that I'm going to be installing soon:
  • Savvy Aluminum Fuel Tank Skid Plate (used)
  • Fox 2.0 Shocks 0-2" lift (was going on my LJ but going to put on my TJ instead)
  • UCF Aluminum Front Bumper with Winch Mount Plate
  • GenRight Fuel Pump Access Panel
  • Garvin Expedition Roof Rack (used)
  • Teraflex 2-Lo for my NP231 transfer case

I'll be looking to get the following parts/upgrades in the next few months after I get my TJ running on the road:
  • Winch (Feel free to make suggestions and weight capacity)
  • High clearance rear bumper with tow hitch (Eyeing the UCF rear bumper right now)
  • Hard shell roof top tent (with the rain, mud, and wildlife in my area it just makes my life easier)
  • Currie Antirock Front Sway Bar
  • Currie Antirock Rear Sway Bar possibly (I need to research the rear more)
  • ORO SwayLoc Dual Rate Sway Bar
  • Deep Cycle Battery

Long term upgrades would be the following:
  • Upgrade my 6r80 automatic to a 10r80 once there is a controller for the 10r80 automatic
  • Teraflex 2" lift kit for a Right Hand Drive TJ
  • Some kind of selectable locker for the front axle
  • Custom Built Overlanding Trailer (parts, fuel, food, water, and second roof top tent)
  • some kind of narrow all terrain tire that is taller than 31.8"

This is my current new plan for my TJ, also it allows me to build something rather stout for TJ Fest 2022 as well. Let me know what you think, especially about the winch!

Thanks
Grant
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01 and BugoutJeep
It may be worth looking into the swayloc for the front instead of the antirock. While I have no complaints about the AR and wouldn't hesitate to buy it again, the swayloc will retain the stock feel on the road and work the same as an antirock while offroad. The extra stiffness may be welcomed especially if you have 100+lbs sitting on the roof. As for the rear, an AR is really not necessary assuming you still have the stock one installed.
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: Tob, RustyAutoholicGuy and BugoutJeep
RustyAutoholicGuy said:
Hey TJers,

So I had a long discussion with my a few people about changing things with my TJ this past weekend, NO I'm not selling it ;) but changes are coming. My thing about Jeeps is overlanding however I don't want to overland in a Minivan (If you know you know).

While I was planning on building my LJ Rubicon for Overlanding, I'm now thinking about keeping it completely stock, the prices for LJs, especially Rubicons are going up and honestly anything I do to my Rubicon is going to be considered radical as well. Also I'm tired, this diesel swap has taken way more out of me then I care to admit and honestly I want out of my shop and off my property.

SO with that said, I'm going to start building my Kubota diesel swapped TJ wrangler into an overlanding rig. In a way this is the perfect rig for it just in terms of fuel economy, this thing with my old transmission setup barely used fuel, especially compared to the 4.0l that came with it.

I have the following parts here or on route that I'm going to be installing soon:
  • Savvy Aluminum Fuel Tank Skid Plate (used)
  • Fox 2.0 Shocks 0-2" lift (was going on my LJ but going to put on my TJ instead)
  • UCF Aluminum Front Bumper with Winch Mount Plate
  • GenRight Fuel Pump Access Panel
  • Garvin Expedition Roof Rack (used)
  • Teraflex 2-Lo for my NP231 transfer case

I'll be looking to get the following parts/upgrades in the next few months after I get my TJ running on the road:
  • Winch (Feel free to make suggestions and weight capacity)
  • High clearance rear bumper with tow hitch (Eyeing the UCF rear bumper right now)
  • Hard shell roof top tent (with the rain, mud, and wildlife in my area it just makes my life easier)
  • Currie Antirock Front Sway Bar
  • Currie Antirock Rear Sway Bar possibly (I need to research the rear more)
  • Deep Cycle Battery

Long term upgrades would be the following:
  • Upgrade my 6r80 automatic to a 10r80 once there is a controller for the 10r80 automatic
  • Teraflex 2" lift kit for a Right Hand Drive TJ
  • Some kind of selectable locker for the front axle
  • Custom Built Overlanding Trailer (parts, fuel, food, water, and second roof top tent)
  • some kind of narrow all terrain tire that is taller than 31.8"

This is my current new plan for my TJ, also it allows me to build something rather stout for TJ Fest 2022 as well. Let me know what you think, especially about the winch!

Thanks
Grant
Click to expand...
Yeah I think leaving the LJ alone is probably a good idea.

I can't wait to see this build.

Just some notes. On the battery, make sure the deep cycle is an Auxillary battery. I went with a dual purpose starting battery which also will see winching duty, but this is probably a mistake, but at the time I didn't have a lot of options with a single battery, but I imagine this will bite me. I think starting and winching battery should be basically a red top and go big, like group 31 or dual batteries. Then run a Deep Cycle for the Aux stuff.

Most on here say the rear OEM sway bar is just fine. I think they're right, but my lift is still settling in at the moment.

I can't wait to see the hard top RRT, because though I want one of these, I'm just not sure I could pull the trigger on one. They're pricey too and if I got one I couldn't enter my garage and I think with the dog it would be kind of annoying.

Trailers are just so cool. I keep wanting to build a trailer, but I don't know what I want and I've been in the middle of too many repairs to really put something together.

I really like the Warn M8000 winch, but I've had a HF 12000 lb winch and it was just fine. However I'm on the fence of getting a winch for my truck and I think I'm going to go with the Warn Zeon platinum for it, just a couple features I kind of like.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RustyAutoholicGuy
Do you have a basic trailer design you're thinking of? I've been debating to get something like a Dinoot or something. I've really been wanting to do some fabrication the last year or 2.

Do you have heavy duty tailgate hinges? I really like the Morryde stuff that I went to for a couple more options.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RustyAutoholicGuy
Alex01 said:
It may be worth looking into the swayloc for the front instead of the antirock. While I have no complaints about the AR and wouldn't hesitate to buy it again, the swayloc will retain the stock feel on the road and work the same as an antirock while offroad. The extra stiffness may be welcomed especially if you have 100+lbs sitting on the roof. As for the rear, an AR is really not necessary assuming you still have the stock one installed.
Click to expand...

☝️That is what I was looking for and why I posted what I was planning on building. I've never heard of swayloc, I'll go do some research now on it.

BugoutJeep said:
Yeah I think leaving the LJ alone is probably a good idea.

I can't wait to see this build.

Just some notes. On the battery, make sure the deep cycle is an Auxillary battery. I went with a dual purpose starting battery which also will see winching duty, but this is probably a mistake, but at the time I didn't have a lot of options with a single battery, but I imagine this will bite me. I think starting and winching battery should be basically a red top and go big, like group 31 or dual batteries. Then run a Deep Cycle for the Aux stuff.

Most on here say the rear OEM sway bar is just fine. I think they're right, but my lift is still settling in at the moment.

I can't wait to see the hard top RRT, because though I want one of these, I'm just not sure I could pull the trigger on one. They're pricey too and if I got one I couldn't enter my garage and I think with the dog it would be kind of annoying.

Trailers are just so cool. I keep wanting to build a trailer, but I don't know what I want and I've been in the middle of too many repairs to really put something together.

I really like the Warn M8000 winch, but I've had a HF 12000 lb winch and it was just fine. However I'm on the fence of getting a winch for my truck and I think I'm going to go with the Warn Zeon platinum for it, just a couple features I kind of like.
Click to expand...

Yeah the battery situation is a weird one for me. I don't know that I have room for a dual setup, my water-to-air intercooler setup took up just about all the extra room I had in my engine bay. I could easily get a Red Top Group 31 and just run that.

Is there a reason to not run like a Yellow Top? From what I was reading the Yellow Top seems perfect for my setup.

Yeah the RTT is going to be expensive, like $3500 BUT it will last longer and it will not create as much noise on my roof as well (yes it's a Jeep but still keeping the noise down would be nice)

The trailer is because my brother wants to tag along OR when my kids want to come, I don't have to share a tent with them. I've been looking at building an ultra light offroad trailer that has the same wheels/tires as my TJ has that would be around 450 pounds with a RTT mounted to it empty. Looking at getting an aluminum frame that has a towing capacity of 1050lbs and modifying it for my purposes. It's a 40"x48" frame but swapping the suspension and axles for a Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System. This would allow the trailer to have independent suspension while wheeling and would make it easier to pull as well.

I'll check out the Warn, I've had a Warn 12,000lb winch on a trailer before and it never gave me issues. I pulled so many none running vehicles onto that trailer with that winch.

Keep the ideas and thoughts coming!

Thanks
Grant
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01 and BugoutJeep
BugoutJeep said:
Do you have a basic trailer design you're thinking of? I've been debating to get something like a Dinoot or something. I've really been wanting to do some fabrication the last year or 2.

Do you have heavy duty tailgate hinges? I really like the Morryde stuff that I went to for a couple more options.
Click to expand...

I've been planning on using the Dinoot on the aluminum frame, I would go with the smaller one, trying to keep it as light as possible AND I was going to also run a Lock ‘N’ Roll trailer hitch on the setup as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Alex01 and BugoutJeep
On paper Yellow-Top is awesome, but somewhat anecdotally they seem to fail early when used in that setup, especially with really really high draw applications from starting diesels and winching. The red top basically handles your starting and your winching and it makes no compromises.

I'm running an Northstar AGM Group 27. I haven't had any trouble, but it's a compromise and I've only had it for a few months. However I couldn't find anything with the RC I needed to meet the new Cummins specs. The R2.8 runs the grid heater before every start up for emissions and so basically you drop your voltage some and then engage the starter, which kind of sucks and it gave my previous battery an early retirement. Oh I do like AGM near one of these diesels and for off-road.

Typically for dual batteries, you're likely just stacking them in a weird configuration.

If you want to go really awesome, look into a Lithium Aux battery. Much much lighter and they're getting slightly more reasonable. I think 100 ah is around $500 now. I'm not sure of the quality.

A popular option I see a lot are the portable battery generator things. I'm not sold on these much over the 500 wh capacity, but a good clean option for weekend warriors. I mostly don't suggest them, because they charge WAY TOO SLOWLY. However these are easy options so you can charge cameras, run the laptop, etc. And personally I use tool lighting around camp like Milwaukee and Dewalt and stuff.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: RustyAutoholicGuy
BugoutJeep said:
On paper Yellow-Top is awesome, but somewhat anecdotally they seem to fail early when used in that setup, especially with really really high draw applications from starting diesels and winching. The red top basically handles your starting and your winching and it makes no compromises.

I'm running an Northstar AGM Group 27. I haven't had any trouble, but it's a compromise and I've only had it for a few months. However I couldn't find anything with the RC I needed to meet the new Cummins specs. The R2.8 runs the grid heater before every start up for emissions and so basically you drop your voltage some and then engage the starter, which kind of sucks and it gave my previous battery an early retirement. Oh I do like AGM near one of these diesels and for off-road.

Typically for dual batteries, you're likely just stacking them in a weird configuration.

If you want to go really awesome, look into a Lithium Aux battery. Much much lighter and they're getting slightly more reasonable. I think 100 ah is around $500 now. I'm not sure of the quality.

A popular option I see a lot are the portable battery generator things. I'm not sold on these much over the 500 wh capacity, but a good clean option for weekend warriors. I mostly don't suggest them, because they charge WAY TOO SLOWLY. However these are easy options so you can charge cameras, run the laptop, etc. And personally I use tool lighting around camp like Milwaukee and Dewalt and stuff.
Click to expand...

Yeah see I don't have those starting draws that your Cummins R2.8 does, mines purely mechanical except for the lift pump in my tank, that is really the only draw on my system minus my electric fan setup which when going down the road really won't be used at all.

I'll look at both the Red Top and the AGM batteries then as well, it would be nice to get one with dual terminals, so I can use one set for my winch and the other for the rest of the Jeep as well.

I'll look into the Lithium Aux Battery for the trailer setup for sure, anything I can do to keep that trailer as light as possible would be awesome!

-Grant
 
  • Like
Reactions: BugoutJeep
  • Like
Reactions: Tob, BugoutJeep, Alex01 and 1 other person
Irun said:
The UCF rear bumper is a good choice for looks, strength, and weight. See post #386,

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-lesson-learned—keep-it-light-and-nimble.44924/page-20
Skip the rear Antirock and apply the money you would have spent there to get a SwayLoc. I just installed one and it's a great addition to a Jeep that will be driven both on and offroad. @Mr. Bills did a good comparison writeup

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-swayloc-dual-rate-anti-swaybar-system.46143/
Click to expand...

Thank you so much @Irun I'm checking out all the posts now. I liked the UCF rear bumper because the hitch looked functional for what I'm going to try using it for.

It's going to take me a while to get through the Antirock vs Swayloc thread. My gut reactions is still to go AntiRock just for simplicity (Says the guy that is running a turbo diesel with a water to air intercooler setup). I could go purely manual from what I'm reading on their site though having a remote actuated setup would be awesome as well.

Thanks
Grant
 
Top Bottom
Back