Clutch recommendations and tips?
- Thread starter Brittany
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Jerry, Always appreciate your recommendations! I'm getting ready to replace my Clutch and planning to order from Amazon as you noted in this post last year. Still a good choice?? Also, on the Amazon website, they indicated buyers typically order a different Clutch Release Bearing - "National 614093 Clutch Release Bearing" - I've read that while the LUK clutch can last up to 200k miles, their bearing doesn't last. Is that true and is that why Amazon is making the recommendation, as a lot of people are buying the National product?
Also, should I replace the fork? My 2006 TJ has about 170k miles on it.
Yes the Luk clutch can certainly last at least 200k miles. Despite mine having been literally smoked on the trail many times I was shocked in its excellent condition when I did a precautionary swap at 161k miles before doing a really tough trail. My guess is it was certainly good for another 40-50k miles but I replaced it anyway since I had it out and had the new Luk replacement. What's funny is it wasn't long after that clutch swap that I did the conversion to an automatic transmission.
Some complain about the Luk throwout bearing due to it not being all steel, others don't have any problems with them. It wouldn't be a bad idea to also buy the National TOB just for piece-of-mind.
Some complain about the Luk throwout bearing due to it not being all steel, others don't have any problems with them. It wouldn't be a bad idea to also buy the National TOB just for piece-of-mind.
Babygools99
TJ Enthusiast
I agree with jerry. Not saying that a Centerforce kit is bad at all, because i've never run one, but this whole argument reminds me of mechanics arguing over Snap-on vs craftsman. If the LUK kit can handle abuse, and its been WELL documented, then why spend the extra money?
I concur with the above. Retain the stock flywheel unless it’s messed up. I installed a heavier flywheel at the same time, but it was not necessary.
I'm currently running the CF dual. I had just purchased the jeep and the clutch was going out 12k miles. I needed one and 4wp sold me the CF Dual,. I have no complaints with this clutch, just the cost was high. I thought it strange seeing small pads of clutch material on the disc, but installed it anyway. In order to havethe warranty on the clutch CF required to resurface the flywheel. After installing I thought something was wrong, the pedal required very light pressure. So far is the rocks and trails I have never had this clutch slip. Very impressed with it.
Looking back If I was on these forums at that time I too would most likely have purchased the LUK setup due the cost, but have no regrets in my CF.
Looking back If I was on these forums at that time I too would most likely have purchased the LUK setup due the cost, but have no regrets in my CF.
They use less clutch surface area to increase the friction and holding power. It works, but can reduce the life of the clutch as well. The domed flywheel is a big improvement over a flat one. It allows less slippage for a smoother engage/ disengage of the clutch. Clever and cheap. Helps a heavier clutch feel a lot smoother and lighter.
Nick Mitty
Member
Hi Jerry,
I know this thread is from a few years back, but wanted to see if I could still get a reply. I read through and see what you’re saying with the LUK Clutch Kit. I however have a somewhat unique situation, my TJ is built as an “overlander” and is thus much heavier than your standard TJ. I still wheel it pretty hard. In this case would you still recommend the LUK, or is it worth the extra money for a South Bend Upgrade Unit? I want to put the best option possible in the Jeep to last the longest.
Additionally, say my flywheel WAS damaged, what replacement do you recommend? I saw the LUK flywheel had some poor reviews for bolt holes being too small. I’m looking into a crown automotive replacement. Also while I’m in there anything else I should consider replacing for some preventative maintenance?
Jeep is a 2006 TJ Sport with the 4.0 and NSG370 6 Speed.
Thanks in advance!
The Luk is still the best choice for you in my opinion and to me, overlanding is not nearly as hard on a clutch as you might think it is.
The below smoke is from my Luk clutch, it regularly sustained such abuse while rock crawling and I doubt yours would ever experience anything like it from overlanding. Uses like the below is why I finally converted to an automatic.
The below smoke is from my Luk clutch, it regularly sustained such abuse while rock crawling and I doubt yours would ever experience anything like it from overlanding. Uses like the below is why I finally converted to an automatic.
You could get the heavy flywheel from Centerforce. Has higher mass for more inertia at low rpm.
For a heavy overlanding rig I would consider the Luk Pro Gold clutch. 05-901. It's just like stock except larger surface area so it has more capacity.
Maybe to you but not to me, I wouldn't install one on a 4.0 if it was free. Its increased inertia slows how fast the engine revs or slows down. I only see its usefulness on the 2.5L engine.
Nick Mitty
Member
Appreciate the advice from both of you! I think I’m going to place the order based on the below. The current (stock) clutch has lasted 172,000mi with the extra weight, wheeling, and driving. No reason to believe the OEM LUK replacement won’t do the same again.
LUK Clutch Kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Clutch Fork Spring:
https://www.extremeterrain.com/crown-automotive-clutch-fork-spring-9417-yj-tj-jk.html
National Throwout Bearing:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZIQ4Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Crown Automotive Flywheel:
https://www.quadratec.com/p/crown-automotive/flywheel-jeep-wrangler-tj-40l
Lastly, is there any other parts, seals, hardware, etc. I should consider replacing while I have this apart. I want to do as much preventative maintenance as possible!
Are you sure you actually need a new flywheel? Mine was still in perfect condition at 192k miles when I removed it. At the most they sometimes just have a little glazing on the surface which is easily removed with emery cloth or a mild sandpaper grade.
Nick Mitty
Member
Haven’t cracked her open yet, but will definitely make that call once I do. Hopefully it’s fine and I can just clean it up a bit, but wanted to make sure I had a good replacement sourced if needed.
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