Critique my build plan

Hawaiian_TJ

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Please critique my future mods to meet my rig goals:

Picked up an ’03 TJ X, it is my daily driver and weekend adventure (camping and very easy trail). I have 2 goals for this Jeep for the next 5 years:

Goal 1: Build a reliable daily driver (30miles daily/70mph)

Goal 2 (5yrs): Build a rig to take on Rubicon

Current Mods:
  • Skyjacker 4” Sport Hydro Lift
  • Tires/Wheels 35 x 12.5 x 15
  • Speedo Gear 37
  • Dana 30 / 35
  • Rubicon Exp Adjustable Track Bar
Future Mods (45 days):
  • Teraflex Ball Joint
  • Power Stop Brake Kit
  • Bilstein Front/Rear Shocks
  • Currie Currectlync Steer System
  • Stock Pitman Arm
 
Please critique my future mods to meet my rig goals:

Picked up an ’03 TJ X, it is my daily driver and weekend adventure (camping and very easy trail). I have 2 goals for this Jeep for the next 5 years:

Goal 1: Build a reliable daily driver (30miles daily/70mph)

Goal 2 (5yrs): Build a rig to take on Rubicon

Current Mods:
  • Skyjacker 4” Sport Hydro Lift
  • Tires/Wheels 35 x 12.5 x 15
  • Speedo Gear 37
  • Dana 30 / 35
  • Rubicon Exp Adjustable Track Bar
Future Mods (45 days):
  • Teraflex Ball Joint
  • Power Stop Brake Kit
  • Bilstein Front/Rear Shocks
  • Currie Currectlync Steer System
  • Stock Pitman Arm

I’m sure some forum members can give you specifics but I’m almost positive the teraflex ball joints aren’t good compared to Dana/Spicer. The ball joints you will want to get are the Dana / Spicer 706944X Suspension Ball Joint - the recommend ones on here. If you want better brakes go with black magic brake kits @mrblaine. Currectlync is amazing good choice. Stock pitman arm is critical so good call! Some say Bilsteins are too rough, I’d go with a good set of Ranchos RS5000x which aren’t expensive anyway. @Jerry Bransford @Chris
 
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I’m sure some forum members can give you specifics but I’m almost positive the teraflex ball joints aren’t good compared to Dana/Spicer. The ball joints you will want to get are the Dana / Spicer 706944X Suspension Ball Joint - the recommend ones on here. If you want better brakes go with black magic brake kits @mrblaine. Currectlync is amazing good choice. Stock pitman arm is critical so good call! Some say Bilsteins are too rough, I’d go with a good set of Ranchos RS5000x which aren’t expensive anyway.

Thank you! This why I ask in this forum...my experience level is as short as I am. I will definitely relook the ball joints and brakes.
 
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I wouldn't run Teraflex ball joints. I'd put the OE Spicer ball joints on there, which have been proven time and time again.

I also wouldn't run a Power Stop brake kit by any means either, especially when you have the Vanco big brake kit (and Black Magic Brakes) that are designed by @mrblaine with our TJs in mind. There is no better brake upgrade than that!

I personally don't care for Bilstein shocks either. I would run Rancho RS5000X shocks if you're on a budget, or if you have the money to spend, custom tuned Fox shocks from @pcoplin.
 
Thank you! This why I ask in this forum...my experience level is as short as I am. I will definitely relook the ball joints and brakes.
Here’s the link to the ball joint thread:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/wrangler-tj-ball-joint-replacement.281/Here’s the link to the shocks thread:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/shocks-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly.8426/And here’s the link to BMB:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/black-magic-brakes.515/
 
...


Current Mods:
  • Skyjacker 4” Sport Hydro Lift
  • Tires/Wheels 35 x 12.5 x 15
  • Speedo Gear 37
  • Dana 30 / 35
  • Rubicon Exp Adjustable Track Bar
Future Mods (45 days):
  • Teraflex Ball Joint
  • Power Stop Brake Kit
  • Bilstein Front/Rear Shocks
  • Currie Currectlync Steer System
  • Stock Pitman Arm

Small body lift
Super 35 kit
Currie track bars
Spicer ball joints
Black Magic Brakes or Vanco Big Brake kit
Not Bilsteins

That's just responding to your list. There is a whole lot more if you want to reliably run 35s. And even more if you want to safely do the Rubicon.
 
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Small body lift
Super 35 kit
Currie track bars
Spicer ball joints
Black Magic Brakes or Vanco Big Brake kit
Not Bilsteins

That's just responding to your list. There is a whole lot more if you want to reliably run 35s. And even more if you want to safely do the Rubicon.

Please--spill your knowledge for reliable daily driver and Rubicon; I plan to build my daily driver in the next 6 weeks and start saving for Rubicon.
 
I wouldn't run Teraflex ball joints. I'd put the OE Spicer ball joints on there, which have been proven time and time again.

I also wouldn't run a Power Stop brake kit by any means either, especially when you have the Vanco big brake kit (and Black Magic Brakes) that are designed by @mrblaine with our TJs in mind. There is no better brake upgrade than that!

I personally don't care for Bilstein shocks either. I would run Rancho RS5000X shocks if you're on a budget, or if you have the money to spend, custom tuned Fox shocks from @pcoplin.

Initially, I wanted to go with Fox. After a few reads, it narrowed down to Bilstein/Ranchos; now you got me back on Fox lol. When talking about custom shocks, can this be done without the Jeep being at the location of the shop? (probably a stupid question)
 
Initially, I wanted to go with Fox. After a few reads, it narrowed down to Bilstein/Ranchos; now you got me back on Fox lol. When talking about custom shocks, can this be done without the Jeep being at the location of the shop? (probably a stupid question)

Yes sir! @pcoplin hit him up! Custom tuned foxes for your setup!
 
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Initially, I wanted to go with Fox. After a few reads, it narrowed down to Bilstein/Ranchos; now you got me back on Fox lol. When talking about custom shocks, can this be done without the Jeep being at the location of the shop? (probably a stupid question)

Yes, it can! Just order shocks from someone like @pcoplin and he'll ship them to you tuned and everything. That's what I did with mine.

You'd be blown away how much of a difference the tune makes.
 
Please--spill your knowledge for reliable daily driver and Rubicon; I plan to build my daily driver in the next 6 weeks and start saving for Rubicon.
I haven't run the Rubicon, but my daily driver has been very reliable and is also pretty capable. I think it would do well out there. See my build thread for more.

As far as your 35s are immediately concerned, you need adjustable control arms, SYE and a double cardan rear drive shaft. Spend some time understanding the bump stops and how to correctly extend them. If you do this, you will quickly begin to understand how your suspension works and how to set it up to work well.
 
Initially, I wanted to go with Fox. After a few reads, it narrowed down to Bilstein/Ranchos; now you got me back on Fox lol. When talking about custom shocks, can this be done without the Jeep being at the location of the shop? (probably a stupid question)


The shocks I offer are custom mounted. You will need to have them outboarded which require a bit of fab work.

The Fox Performance are bolt in, as are the Bilsteins and new Ranchos. But none will give you the ride that a well tuned, high quality shock will.
 
The shocks I offer are custom mounted. You will need to have them outboarded which require a bit of fab work.

The Fox Performance are bolt in, as are the Bilsteins and new Ranchos. But none will give you the ride that a well tuned, high quality shock will.

I was under the impression you could tune the off-the-shelf Fox shocks for the stock TJ mounts, am I wrong? What are those things called, IFP or something?
 
I was under the impression you could tune the off-the-shelf Fox shocks for the stock TJ mounts, am I wrong? What are those things called, IFP or something?


Performance series IFP.

I could. I haven't yet, they are a solid PITA. They require a $100 needle valve from Fox that I've already broken one of. The only way I will do Performance series, is if they are the external reservoir style and if I swap the resi cap to a standard schrader valve.

They are a very low flow piston, uses very light valving and a serrated bleed piston, instead of the normal drilled holes in the piston. It would just take buying a set, borrowing a stock TJ, and fiddling with the tune to see if I can get them softer in small events with keeping the medium and larger hits unaffected by the bleed shim.
 
Performance series IFP.

I could. I haven't yet, they are a solid PITA. They require a $100 needle valve from Fox that I've already broken one of. The only way I will do Performance series, is if they are the external reservoir style and if I swap the resi cap to a standard schrader valve.

They are a very low flow piston, uses very light valving and a serrated bleed piston, instead of the normal drilled holes in the piston. It would just take buying a set, borrowing a stock TJ, and fiddling with the tune to see if I can get them softer in small events with keeping the medium and larger hits unaffected by the bleed shim.

Ahhh, at that point may as well just outboard and get the good ones.

Last I talked to Dave, he only charges something like $900 for an outboard, which is a ridiculously good price.

Of course he is using Bilstein 5150s I believe, which I wouldn't want to run. He said he only uses them because they are cheap.
 
Ahhh, at that point may as well just outboard and get the good ones.

Last I talked to Dave, he only charges something like $900 for an outboard, which is a ridiculously good price.

Of course he is using Bilstein 5150s I believe, which I wouldn't want to run. He said he only uses them because they are cheap.


I've recently done 4 or 5 sets of shocks for them, just delivered 6 of them yesterday in fact. I've been trying for years for him to put foxes on there, instead of those damn Bilstiens. LOL

I still can't get him to not do 14s, but that's his build style.
 
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I haven't run the Rubicon, but my daily driver has been very reliable and is also pretty capable. I think it would do well out there. See my build thread for more.

As far as your 35s are immediately concerned, you need adjustable control arms, SYE and a double cardan rear drive shaft. Spend some time understanding the bump stops and how to correctly extend them. If you do this, you will quickly begin to understand how your suspension works and how to set it up to work well.
Follow this advise before you order shocks. You may find a different length shock may be needed after properly adjusting your suspension. There is a pretty good chance it was not setup correctly. Most lifts are not properly cycled and adjusted after install.
 
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I've recently done 4 or 5 sets of shocks for them, just delivered 6 of them yesterday in fact. I've been trying for years for him to put foxes on there, instead of those damn Bilstiens. LOL

I still can't get him to not do 14s, but that's his build style.

When I was originally going to have him do mine, I had insisted on Fox shocks, which he agreed to. With mine though, he was suggesting I do 12s. But I also don't have highline fenders, so maybe that's why.
 
Would you recommend Dave for outboarding?

I have a love / hate relationship with Dave. On one hand, he's smart as hell, knows his shit inside and out, and does amazing work. On the other hand, he has no idea whatsoever how to run a business.

My suggestion would be if you drop your vehicle off at his place to have him work on it, make certain to tell him you need it back by a certain date (even if you have to make something up). Tell him you absolutely have to have it back by then, no exceptions.

I've found he works better when you light a fire under him.
 
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