Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

The steering damper popped yesterday. A new Monroe is here and I'll swap it out tomorrow.

Also, on the way into work I noticed a new clunk. A coworker helped with a steering test and I found movement in the pitman arm tie rod end. A new Currie end should be here Friday.

I bought this steering used about 4 years ago. I have no idea how many miles and abuse are on it beyond my ~25k. Everything else felt tight.
 
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Fun discovery on the steering damper. While it has been weeping for a while, trail damage finally did it in.
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It seems a rock moved the tie rod adjustment clamp back. That bolt raked through the damper during several hard turns and punctured it.

The new one is in and my memories of the last time I replaced the damper are coming back. The steering feels much better now. Less jittery road input and the Jeep wanders less. That means steering dampers do matter and you will notice if they aren't there or not working properly.
 
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What’s the minimum bump on Currie fronts/rears?

Fronts are about 1.5". Rears are about 3". They do not have a hard limit like stock does. Think of them as a jounce that slows the speed of travel before the shocks stop the movement. Leave about 3/4" of shaft when the bumps first touch.
 
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Speaking of rear frame raises, I wonder If he ever raised a rear frame just before the shock/tank crossmember. Or why it would be a bad idea?

It was discussed here a couple months back. The crossmember/shock mount is in that spot and would make the cut all the more difficult. And the resulting step in the frame would look funny.
 
ROTM stuff has arrived and the gift certificates have been spent.


I put the money towards a TRE kinetic recovery rope and Currie rear bump stops.
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Interested in your feedback on the install and set up of theses bumps. I had issues with the upper aluminum Currie jounce cup/pad fitting with the spring isolator. I also had to add 1.5" to bottom bump (I borrowed the bottom spacer from the front Currie stop kit for now).
 
Interested in your feedback on the install and set up of theses bumps. I had issues with the upper aluminum Currie jounce cup/pad fitting with the spring isolator. I also had to add 1.5" to bottom bump (I borrowed the bottom spacer from the front Currie stop kit for now).

Install is trickier than it ought to be on mine. I need to rebuild the lower pad after drilling it out for the old air bags. I'm thinking of welding in an upside down flange nut to give me something to bolt on to.
 
Install is trickier than it ought to be on mine. I need to rebuild the lower pad after drilling it out for the old air bags. I'm thinking of welding in an upside down flange nut to give me something to bolt on to.
Flange nut sounds like a good solution. You'll also likely find that the isolator is too big to fit nicely in the Currie Cup and pushes it down too far making the bolts that came with the kit too short. I had to get longer bolts. Tried trimming the isolator but didn't help enough. (Although I didnt install it this way, It would fit when flipping the cup "upside down" from what the instructions show.)

Edit: below is how it fits the "right" way according to thr instructions.

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Good to know. I hadn't thought about the isolater and the thin spacer I have back there.
 
Flange nut sounds like a good solution. You'll also likely find that the isolator is too big to fit nicely in the Currie Cup and pushes it down too far making the bolts that came with the kit too short. I had to get longer bolts. Tried trimming the isolator but didn't help enough. (Although I didnt install it this way, It would fit when flipping the cup "upside down" from what the instructions show.)

Edit: below is how it fits the "right" way according to thr instructions.

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I trimmed the inside of the isolater to fit over the aluminum spacer easier. I then pre-installed the aluminum spacer into the spring and then fit the isolater over the aluminum spacer. This makes install and removal so much easier and quicker. It all becomes one piece, less to fight with. This allows you to feed the upper urethane bump stop in and bolt it to the frame without a balancing act.
 
I trimmed the inside of the isolater to fit over the aluminum spacer easier. I then pre-installed the aluminum spacer into the spring and then fit the isolater over the aluminum spacer. This makes install and removal so much easier and quicker. It all becomes one piece, less to fight with. This allows you to feed the upper urethane bump stop in and bolt it to the frame without a balancing act.
Do you have a pic? Is there still enough meat on the isolator for the coil to rest against? I thought about that but didn't want to trim too much.