Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

Throw out bearing broke in half.
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I'm grouping these videos together because it needs to be crystal clear what is going on. The one and only difference between these two climbs is the tires. 8psi for both runs. These were shot about 2 months apart.

Milestar Patagonia

Goodyear MTR/K

I have climbed this before with my old 285/75r16 Cooper Discoverer ST Pro. Those more or less walked up with only a little bit wheel spin.

@rasband, tell us what tire you climbed this with. Those are a better off road tire than the Milestar Patagonia.
 
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hosejockey61 said:
Welp, check off the new clutch box...
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159k miles and almost 18 years. Given the circumstances, I'm glad it failed when and where it did. We stopped to figure it out right behind Napa. I was able to take off in 1st using the starter and float gears the whole 2 hour drive to @strumble8's house. We are halfway through the work. The new clutch goes in first thing tomorrow.
 
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To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time the clutch and flywheel have been exposed since the Jeep was built. I thought the flywheel was supposed to have a concave or a convex surface. Not mine.

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jjvw said:
To the best of my knowledge, this is the first time the clutch and flywheel have been exposed since the Jeep was built. I thought the flywheel was supposed to have a concave or a convex surface. Not mine.

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It is there, you just need a clean straight edge without the eased edge and a light on one side. There is about .015 difference.
 
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tworley said:
Any tales it was giving before it went?
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None that I could tell. I've driven a couple clutches that were slipping and on their way out. But when the throw out bearing breaks like this one did, it is a sudden failure.
 
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It took us about 10 hours from tear down to roll out. It isn't a difficult job, much in the same way replacing the front inner axle seals isn't a difficult job. A transmission jack and a blind bearing puller make the work much easier. We kept the transfer case attached to the transmission.

This new clutch is very different than the original. The new one is very quiet, it grabs very low on the pedal and the movement is very light. I like it much better, but it is very strange to use right now.

The original wasn't heavy like some I've used, but it took some effort. That is gone now.

For as long as I've had the Jeep the old clutch often had a creak, likely the fork, that is gone now that we greased the pivot ball and cylinder plunger. Hopefully it will stay that way for a while.

Another thing that is gone is the long standing rattle in neutral that the internet attributes to a noisy input shaft. Now I don't believe it was ever the input shaft. Having finally seen the insides of a clutch in person, I'm not even sure how that could be the case. The moment I got my hands on the disc, I noticed that the spring loaded center section had a lot of free play. I believe this is what has been making the noise for the last 102k miles.

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fooey said:
When I replaced my clutch it was the most advanced car repair I had done to that point. When I finished and took it for a test drive the pedal was so light I thought I had somehow screwed something up.

Even came on here and started a thread to ask about it. 😂
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If you look at the side by side comparisons, you'll see that the Luk clutch has more surface area than factory. I wonder if there is a relationship between that and how heavy the pedal is. After the test drive, @strumble8 and I were wondering why some people would want a heavier clutch.
 
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