Engine Swaps With Manual Transmission Options?

[k1n3k]

I am getting to the point that my TJ might need an engine sooner than I'd like. Its always had a little tap when cold but now its getting to be a pretty good piston slap and I'm getting misfire on cyl 3 codes on occasion that come and go. I've not done a leakdown or compression test yet, but that did get me thinking...

I've done quite a few swaps in the past so its not my first rodeo.

I am thinking that while I do quite like the 4.0 in there already, another 50-100 (or more) hp would be nice. A rebuild is an option, go with a stroker kit and stick a mild cam in then get it tuned. That has a large enough price tag that it might be worth looking at a swap anyway as I'd be replacing the transmission while I'm at it. But, it is the easiest and the most sure fire.

One thing that hangs me up is transmission length. I hate that I love short wheelbases. I fought this in the Samurai when I did the ALH TDI swap and looks like I might fight it in the Jeep too.

An LS is an awesome engine option. Maybe with an NV3500 behind it? Nv4500 is what I want but its also YUGE and I'm not keen on doing what it takes to force it to fit. I can do it, but I don't wanna.
A hemi would be sweeeet, but I've never seen one swapped with a manual behind it, always an auto. Any manual trans options that fit in a TJ?
A magnum is also a good option, also possibly with the NV3500?
A wildcard engine would be an OM648 with something behind it. I do quite like a diesel and those are some fantastic motors. No idea on what trans, but it'd be fun. This would be the most work but the mileage would be an excuse to do it. It would never cover the cost in fuel savings, so literally just an excuse.

IDK, kinda daydreaming at the moment on what I could toss in there and enjoy. I'm pretty well resolved to keep this TJ for a long time to come as its super straight, totally rust free, does everything I want, and has so few electronics even @Zorba likes them. So if I do it, it needs to be reliable, it needs to be reasonably easy to work on, run on regular gas or diesel, and be something that I can get in and just drive. Right now, the stroker 6 banger and an AX15 really do check the boxes the best, but life is short and sometimes you just need a V8 or diesel Jeep.

 

[Chris]

I wouldn't go with either of the NV options. They're clunky, hard to get parts for, etc.

Go with an AX-15, or if you have the money to spend, get a TR-4050 (if it will fit in a TJ).

I actually think a 1.9 TDI from a VW would be a really cool swap in a TJ, personally.

 

[TJuser]

I second the motion on a TDI swap. A few people make everything required for the swap and get it bolted up to your stock trans.

They have wiring harnesses for the newer TDI's. I know the ALH works, but the BEW is more supported as far as I can remember for these


https://tdconversions.com/en-ca/collections/1-9-2-0-tdi-adapter-kit-no-accessories/jeep

https://cotybuilt.com/collections/coty-built-builders-parts


Cotybuilt seems to have it all figured out.

 

[Willys LJ]

If I was to do an engine swap on my LJ, the TDI would be my first choice. The NSG370 would stay however. I like the 6 speed now that I've had 8 years of getting used to it.

But keeping the 4.0 would be a better idea IMHO.

 

[Wildman]

There was a member who did a manual with a 6.1 Hemi... You can do it...

Here ya go: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/6-1-ljr-build.67130/

The other option for a manual might be the G56 6 speed used behind the Hemi pickups.

What year TJ? 97-02 the Magnum V-8 is a good swap also. 03-06 the Hemi is my preferred swap motor.

 

[Steel City 06]

I compiled a list of transmissions I could find that could be mated to the 7.3L Godzilla with existing adapters:

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/ford-7-3l-v8-godzilla-swap-information.52363/

These would apply for any of the Ford Modular V8 engines as they all share the same bolt/shaft pattern. So it also would apply to the 5.0 Coyote or other V8 engines.

Most of these could be adapted to the Ecoboost lineup as well. Although I’m not sure the entire lineup shares the same bolt pattern. Presumably the 1.0L I3 and 3.5L V6 might have different patterns, for example.

 

[GoldenGorilla]

I still think the Atlas 4200 is a really interesting I-6 option. It's right at +100 hp, but revs up to 7k and doesn't sound like it's going to implode while doing so. The later ones with VVT gain a broader power curve too. That would be a pretty different driving experience from the 4.0L. However there are issues with mounting a manual as the flywheel bolt pattern is not shared with its Atlas 4 and 5 cylinder siblings. The 3700 LLR from the 07-12 Colorado/Canyon was 242hp, 242 ft-lbs and had an AR5 manual. And it can be tuned with HPTuners and can take a turbo. And all these motors can be found pretty cheap right now.

I am thinking that while I do quite like the 4.0 in there already, another 50-100 (or more) hp would be nice. A rebuild is an option, go with a stroker kit and stick a mild cam in then get it tuned. That has a large enough price tag that it might be worth looking at a swap anyway as I'd be replacing the transmission while I'm at it. But, it is the easiest and the most sure fire.

I want the same level of extra power you're talking about. When I ran the numbers for expected power with a 4.6L stroker, I realized that it would make a pretty serious improvement in the low end. Keeping it simple with a 3.895 4.2L crank, high-ish compression pistons, better quench. I also chose to do the Edelbrock head which has it's own low to mid-range benefits on torque. I'm expecting an increase in crank hp at 2000 rpm from stock around 68hp to around 110-115 hp with the stroker and Edelbrock. Around a 60-66% increase which carries quite well up the rpms. Peak torque should end up around 325-335 ft-lbs which lifts the hp at 3200 from ~143hp to ~204hp, still around a 40% increase over stock. Peak HP is dependent on the cam choice, but generally what's good for the bottom end will result in 270-300hp on the top end in the 4500-5000rpm range.

Basically what I'm going to do is the DeXJs piston swap (with stroker pistons and forged rods), plus swapping in a crank and head at the same time. I'll be taking careful measurements on the bores and mains with a bore gauge. Also checking the main journal clearances with plasti-gauge. No machining, no extra complications.

If you want more, the "5.0L" 4.060" crank provides even more low end torque and hp potential, but machining the block to clearance rods and making space for the girdle in the oil pan are required.